After having pulled out my gearbox, i realise that im better off with pulling the engine out as well, to make it easier to get the gearbox back in.

The gearbox came out because of a clutch change (764)

So what is recommended to do when the engine+gearbox is out?

I have already planned the following
-Clutch change
-Waterpump change
-flush the watersystem
-coils and plugs
-Weld waterpipes
-engine, gearbox and frontdif oil.

(fuel filter and serpentine belt was changed last year)

Optional if money comes in:
-K16 billets
-5bar fpr or injectors.

Also considering gt2 slave, but have'nt felt any need for it with the original clutch.
And 2nd gear pop, by adding a steel ball, but recently there was some bad input in the thread.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-do-pics.html

any advice is appreciated

 

Bah... on the "bad input" on that thread...

Adding it is only "updating" your trans to current G96.xx specs. Take a look at the parts manual, it's in there.

 

There's at least three threads on this topic, some with extensive parts lists. I'd suggest searching and finding a couple to read - I'd take a look but am running out the door. Coolant reservoir springs to mind though. Yes, go GT2 as doing it later when the stock system fails is a pita and it will eventually fail.

2nd gear pop, getting the trans built right would be best I think if you've got the issue.

 

It's a good time to do the turbo fresh air inlet pipes/plenum, if you ever plan to turbo upgrade in the future.

 

i agree w mxracer the 8mm ball bearing, no reason at ALL not to. esp if all gears etc are working as they should. it's a solid preventative but so is proper shifting which is even better lol.

my personal tendency ( on "preventative/maintanance" ) is to only fix what is a "wear" item or that which is broken, and since your going in and updating the coolant lines ( certainly a "wear item" at this point! ) and the other parts are ok..it's a good list. should be fine. motor mounts and t-mount if they are original? replace for sure! if not? then should also be "fine".

i mean if while it's dropped you wanna begin throwing parts at it that're cheap and DO wear out then go for cam position sensors ( 40 bucks ) n75 valves and #16 check valves etc. check the plenum since it a cheap *** plastic beer bong, which i'd immediately get rid of with an ipd 68 or 74 w TB etc.. but it never ends unless you want it to! lol. gl with it. good solid plan, sounds like.

also, dont forget a new rear main seal while clutch is out! 30 bucks for an o-ring but ya gotta do it!

 

Thanks guys.
I have seen other forum posts here with similar questions, but i wasnt able to find it.
Besides they where a couple of years old so i figured maybe some new advices existed.

With regards to the gt2 slave, i have found a website having a huge discount on the sylinder
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/9...790-MFG33.aspx

Also the master pump is discounted.

masterpump= 54$
slave = 112$
hyd. hose = 126$
So i guess its only the fork and spring missing.
I dont want to use the bracket tuning providers use, i want it as like gt2 as possible, if im rebuilding.

 

http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo...sion-kits.html

Don't discount John's kit (Post is old, but he's very active). I have a fully done GT2 conversion and it's one of my favorite things about the car.

 

This is from my post "The Big Fix":


My car has been in the shop for some upgrades, fixes, and preventative maintenance. Here is the list in no particular order:


Coolant pipe fix
Expansion tank
Water pump
Check valves (I thought there was only one, but there are two)
Oil pressure sending unit
Metal turbo oil feed lines checked
Waste gate vacuum lines
5 bar fuel pressure regulator
Clutch kit
Slave cylinder (found it was leaking a bit with the engine removal)
Pressure accumulator
Spark plugs
Water hoses
Fuel filter
Crankshaft seal
Boost pressure test
Wastegate adjust
Endless brake fluid
Coolant
Precision Porsche GT2 deck lid (wing painted matte black)
GT2 deck lid wiring harness
Transponder

 

Definitely do slave conversion and coolant reservoir. Those are not if items as much as when items.

Other items i would add is pin pipes, not weld. Welding used, old, dirty aluminum cast tubing is a nightmare to not leak. Even for the pros(good lick getting one to admit). And pinning is proven.

Also, leak check before pulling the engine. Once the engine is out, boost hoses are really easy to replace. And pretty cheap.

Then:
DVs
F-hose
RMS
Transmission and motor mount inspect/replace(if needed)
If changing water pump, also do the thermostat

 

Engine coming out best thing you could ever do besides replacing all those boost / Vacuum valves that always fail is fit a Wavetrac LSD if you do it you will know why I say its the best

 

^ agree. there is no better 1300$ one could spend for this car.

 

If you are thinking about the LSD you are absolutely right.
I have my eyes on the oem porsche lsd on the market.
But with all the other money i need to spend this winter i just cannot afford it.

Its horrible the fact that a sportscar uses stability management to "distribute" torque. what was porsche thinking..


Thanks for all the suggestions.

I did a boostleak test a couple of months ago, and after some part replacement it held the pressure 100%. (thanks Markski)
I'll inspect all the hoses anyways.

 

What does the GT2 clutch conversion setup generally cost? I see in the linked post it says "PM for price". Id rather just have an approximate idea than play PM games. Are we talking $300 or $1300?

 

You know about this kit right?
http://bbiautosport.com/new/index.ph...on-upgrade-kit

 

gt2 cutch setup from the factory using factory parts runs approx. 750$ in parts. add labor if you don't do the work. the bbi unit is 1000$ and add labor. for me the factory way is the best. its the thing porsche did right the first time