Privet, guys! I'm in a rather stupid situation. My tranny's out for a rebuild (second gear pop-out). I did read a lot of threads on upgrading it with 7GT2RS parts. However, I did it AFTER my shop had already purchased the stock parts (insert triple facepalm here ). So, I'm left with a choice to either rebuild with stock or sell the parts and go with the GT2RS ones.. I thought I'd be ok with stock, but I can't sleep at night, lol. This board has a negative influence on my wallet!

So, first question is:

1. is the second route worth the hassle?

Unfortunately, my shop hasn't done anything like this yet. Though their mechanic is very qualified with stock rebuilds. Moreover, it seems I would probably be the first one to do so in my country, so I need help and advice from you. I'm trying to

2. figure out which parts I need to sell, which to keep and which to purchase additionally.


Here's the list of what we ordered and to which I should convert to from what I've read:
99630290150 (mainshaft) --> 997.302.901.88
99630406150 (sleeve guide) --> do I need to change this? NO
99920122594 (some kind of a bearing?)
99920123906 (Needle Bearing 4:1)
99911332641 (Main Shaft Seal CRP)
99911347540 (Shaft sealing ring)
99737503303 (transmission mount)
95030229507 (thrust washer)
95030461120 (synchro rings for 1 -2) --> 95030431130
92830421123 (synchro rings for 3 -4) --> 92830421130

9963030319A (Cup Lever)
996424165A (bracket for Cup Lever)

999.034.035.00 (nut)
999.034.034.00 (nut)
999.034.033.00 (nut)


3. What are the drawbacks of steel synchros? I only read about the pros. Also, I don't know where you guys order them. Are they OEM?

I'm sure there will be 4..5.. and more questions. Bear with me

Even little advice will be greatly appreciated!

P.S. Car has about 580hp at the flywheel. Not planning on upgrading the power sufficiently during the next 2 years or so (but who knows, haha).

 

steel syncros are noisier than stock. use 997gt2 steel syncros

pwdrhound sent me this list for a friend to do a trans upgrade. the install shouldn't be any harder than stock. just make sure all the gears are spaced properly to keep the popout from coming back

 

what you NEED to do VS what you're doing or CAN DO??! are two very different things. to repair the parts for second gear pop out! as 32 has said, steel synchros are going to be sturdier and LOUDER! but not needed by any means. you're not trying to build a cup box or straight cut gears or taller ratios etc etc. and you have unnecessary parts on that list. compare to the link of needed parts and subtract!

what you're trying to do, and not get fkd! is i think the shop trying to have you over do ( but which parts i don't have full list sorry! ) what you NEED, at least just to repair 2nd gear pop out.

what you need at all is the parts right here all in for $1400.00 US and about a could 1k-1.5k labor ALL IN!

you list is beyond that. these parts will completely fix second gear pop out. right here...

http://californiamotorsports.net/col...ear-repair-kit

should you replace your T MOUNT!? sure. but it has nothing to do with 2nd gear pop! as you know.

should you replace the RMS?! sure since its right there at the clutch when you drop the trans! and its just an O RING!. but you need to rethink this to do it more economically. is my advice. good luck!

 

The taller 7GT2RS gearing is a must in my opinion. Huge upgrade over stock and 3rd gear is much beefier than stock 6TT 3rd... If you don't do this, you'll regret it. I know that's not what you wanna hear though.

 

... i would only add that i would take pwdrhounds advice over mine ANY DAY UNLESS!.. you were simply trying to get your car back to a workable refreshed "stock" condition as "inexpensively"/economically" as possible!, which ( believe it or not?! ) IS the only goal of "some"!... though we can't locate "them"! lol..

it's just he that doesn't know from "stock" anything

 

Thanks a bunch! Quick question. Do I need to purchase additional (GT2RS) spacers/shims to set the gears correctly? Or can I use the stock 996s?

 

Thank you, I'll run the costs to see if I can fit the third gear into my budget.

I still have questions about the GT2RS mainfshaft. What synchros are included in it? Are they brass or steel? What part numbers are for steel synchros?

Also, my shop included the 99630406150 sleeve guide for replacement. Will it fit onto the GT2RS mainshaft?

 

Well, yeah.. That was basically what I asked them to do: find anything that's worn/broken and replace it. Labor is expensive, why not finish everything in one go? They're being cool about it though and willing to experiment. I just need to figure out the new parts.

 

i hear ya. there's BUILT boxes.. and refreshed boxes, and then something in between. i struggled with the same thing you're facing the most RECENT time i went in, and STILL stayed stock, though i do always wish in hindsight i DID opt for a taller 1/2. but i'm not tracking, or time trapping. I'm, just time attacking hills. a taller 2nd would've been perfect, but i went with the most Inexpensive option i could in the end.

but john here will give you parts numbers/ratios, you name it! if you really wanna go nuts. all depends on your goals! ( as you know ).. but again, pwdr KNOWS his sh&t. he just doesn't remember what "stock" means anymore lol.

gl with the build bud! cheers.

btw no matter WHT they say, replace ALL bearings pinion/main and make SURE they get the NEWEST upgraded shim tolerances for the second gear and you might want to consider even installing this part once done. the original specs from porsche on early 01/02 builds were CHANGED to place fourth in a different place within the gear stack with different shims ( we're talking millimeters here ). so make sure your shop KNOWS THIS!..
then check this out, it's also "cheap" insurance and a good part.
http://californiamotorsports.net/pro...shift-arrester

read up on it. again, GL wi it. you'll be good..and put in an LSD while youre in! and go rwd like some of us

 

I have no idea as I'm not an gearbox builder. I just receive the final product from my shop which has built hundreds of these over the years. The parts list posted by 32crazy is what my shop used. They may have however put in more stuff which didn't make it on the final bill. Don't know unfortunately. Make sure they swap in the Cup shift lever while the case is off. It's only a $100 part but you can only change in from the inside. Most shops are clueless when in comes to this part but it is a very nice upgrade from the heavy long counterweighted Turbo shift lever. It makes shift throws about 30% shorter and the feel more "direct and connected". I would find a shop that has done these upgrades before as having someone experiment could end up costly. All the stuff is direct bolt on as all variants of these gearboxes are basically the same.

 

got it. Well, if no gearbox builder chimes in this thread to help, I won't have much choice but to use stock parts. Unfortunately, there is no shop in Russia with needed experience.

pwdrhound, I already have a short shifter installed. I don't know what brand it is though. Feels fairly simple. I'm planning to purchase the CAE shifter. So I don't need the extra part, right?

 

No, of course you don't need any of these parts. I'm just pointing out a good upgrade for minimal money. Porsche uses the short Cup lever in all the Cup/GT3 gearboxes. This is what gives them a more direct/connected shift feel. The TT lever is long/heavy and designed to eliminate/reduce notchiness in tune with the touring character of the car of the turbo car.

 

if you decide to change to 997 RS stuff you should most definitely do the 3rd gear its much stronger than the 996 gear that was the reason i did the upgrade ...

 

^+1 to Pwdr, GT2/3 has very different feel to TT shifter

 

Gentlemen, your suggestions are noted. Thanks! As I have already mentioned, I will have the CAE, so I don't need the GT2 shifter.

I'm very close to solving this puzzle.. I figured out that the stock 996TT guide sleeve and most of the bearings are the same for the RS. Woohoo!

Now, I need someone to help me to find part numbers for steel synchros for the GT2RS. Anyone?