In an earlier post, I mentioned that I spent last Friday/Saturday detailing the underside of my 996TT. I basically went through and used a combination of WD40/mineral spirits to remove all the cosmoline & oil from the back of the car. I noticed today when I was doing an oil change that there is a small bit of oil back on the bottom side of each of the turbo oil tanks. It seems to be weeping down from the large Allen screw area above the oil tank reservoir. I did apply a small amount of torque to the screws & they both were torqued down. Any thoughts on what to do next. Appreciate any thoughts/feedback.

 

Factory o-ring between the sump tank and turbo is probably worn causing some seeping or possibly a small leak from the oil feed up top. Doesn't look bad though. The check valve in the turbo feed could also be stuck open causing more oil to fill the sump than normal especially after car is turned off. Just a few idears for ya!

 

+1 on what 03evoII said. my bet is the check valve threads or the check valve itself. thats what was leaking ion mine. drove me batty trying to find the leak!

 

Thanks guys. I will explore this. In my pics, I had cleaned up some of the oil that had leaked within the past couple of days. Only a small amount, but this is why I went the extra mile to clean the bottom area so that I can see any possible issues going forward.

 

I am doing more and more of my own work ( I think I put my Indy shop owner in a new car or two. Lol). Could you guys point me in the right direction on how to get at the check valve. Should I remove the rear wheels/fender housings to get a better look. If bad, any ideas where I could get two new check valves. These are Kevin's (UMW) build.
Thanks guys

 

Here's a few more pics. I did an oil change last week & made sure to clean all the oil off the sump tank & pretty much everywhere else. I disconnected the plastic pipe coming into the turbos & also the rubber one going to the IC's. All were bone dry. Looks like the flange/connection between the sump/turbos. How easy is this to disassemble & diagnose the o-ring. I am having rotator cuff/bicep surgery in 10 days (10 week recovery) so trying to get as much done on the car since I will be waylaid shortly.

 

The oil tank is held by only two allen bolts. One is outside and the other one is inside the reservoir . You have to remove the drain plug to be able to reach it. After you can replace the o-ring part#900-123-140-30. The check valve can be difficult to remove because the top oil line can be seized. Put lots of release oil before removing. I had a lot of problem taking it off because the fitting was completely seized on the line itself. Had to replace the line completely. You also got a o-ring on this check valve part# 900-123-005-20. Be sure to instal the check valve with the arrow facing the turbo. I have found one install upside down last year on a friend TT

 

exactly what jpflip is describing. the allen inside the oil tank may well be the culprit. mine was loose as well. also order the 2 metal oil lines to the check valve since they will likely be destroyed when trying to loosen them. if they haven't been removed recently they love to seize to the check valves. check valves are about 90$ each as are the lines

 

Thanks guys. I ordered the parts from Pelican & will tackle this project later this week.

 

Isn't there a parts list somewhere to replace the hardline with braided? Won't get so twisted up on the next removal?

 

srm has the braided that they make in house. i have a set but never installed them. sean will use them with the new turbos i ordered