bouncing changes this from "normal" to "abnormal"! it's the only explanation that makes any sense! nothing else is unusual but you'll get rubbing in the rear liners from bouncing off camber whereas as you might not from running in a straightline or a road course situation. it's the only explanation that is "different"! and more demanding on less "tolerances" ( e.g. millimeters! ). it's pretty simple actually, i don't know why it didn't occur to me sooner. but i'm not the sharpest tool in the shed and don't have a pit crew for chrissakes lol.

so..lets see if the added 1/4" i've managed to squeeze out of the rears helps to eliminate the rubbing? absent that, i will again, be at a loss. i think this will do the trick.

driving conditions on tight 15mph sweeper/switchbacks is a far different scenario from running flat 60-75 mph cornering! on FLAT surface(s). it's the only thing left i can think of.

thx to all.

 

all sounds like annual, if not semi annual stuff to me lol

 

link for These parts? When you changed the inner ones, outer ones were still ok?

 

Outer are ball joints on the spindle. Here is a link. I found mine on ebay so I got free shipping on them but you can order direct or look on ebay too.
http://powerflexusa.com/9119961997-2005.aspx

 

Thx, 95a is pretty hard. Big change in nvh?

 

Don't know yet. Still not in the car. Ya they are hard but not as hard a monoball, and much much cheaper. I think I'll be happy with them. I have solid lca thrust bushings and adjustable dog box arms to go in as well as the inner lca bushings and toe arm bushings

 

i'm slow, it's early. please clarify.

you simply ordered NEW 95a bushings and are re- inserting them essentially rebuilding your STOCK/OEM lca's? that works for me theoretically, just fine. what part are they do you have any part number(s) and/or a link? that would be incredibly helpful to me. i dont wanna drop a g note on new lca's if inserts can be pressed out/in.

flewis do you have?...can you provide a link to the bushings?? TIA. really would help. thanks.

I SEE EM ( duh )

http://powerflexusa.com/9119961997-2005.aspx

do i need JUST the INNER as well as OUTER pair of bushings?? two? or ONE of each for each upper/lower control arm. this is just getting over my head and i have a tendency to buy incorrect parts when i do this ON MY OWN! thanks!! not concerned with the "95a" "hardness level, though am avoiding soild sub frame bushings for that reason. i can live with these. car is rarely street driven. on "streets" upon which comfort levels are paramount. thank you!

 

The bushings come it's sets. If you buy on inner set, it will do both rear lca. If you buy 2 sets like I did it's will do all 4 lca in the car.
The outer as they list them, are the thrust arm bushings on the lca. That's what helps minimize camber changes. I bought solid ones from torque solutions instead of the powerflex ones because I did not find their site until after I ordered the ts ones.
I also ordered the rear toe arm inners as I'm not going to adjustable toe arms. One more thing just to help minimize any changes in the rear due to bushing flex.

To install, all you do its remove the arm, press the old ones out and new ones in. Heating the old ones up to get them out often helps if you have stuck bushings. I have a 150 dollar 12 ton press I bought from Northern tool at home just to do bushings and small bearings. Cheap and easier to use than the 40 ton for small stuff.
Overall it's very easy to do if you are mechanically inclined. I poly bushing every car I've built and always much happier that stock.

BTW powerflex does have a subframe bushing kit listed if you want something better than stock but not full solid. You can get them in there street or race version

 

will ned to read this all 2-4 X and will PM as i'll ( already do ) have a cpl questions. you've been kind with sharing with the the info.

see, i already have the TS toe adj links and this is where i get into trouble buying INcompatiibe parts. trying to save $, the opposite occurs.

i'll re-read and may pm.. hopefully you'll be able and will to answer. thx. i dont have a 40 ton press and i assume needle nose pliers wont do lol. thx i'll pm after I've had a chance to read/reread for comprehension.

i can READ but I'm no "tech'. therein lies the difficulty/confusion i encounter.

thx buddy for the help.

 

So is it mainly this that needs to be swapped to avoid rubbing?

http://powerflexusa.com/porsche-911-...r-bushing.aspx

 

^ ronny. not the way I read/understand "it" the rubbing and creaking/crunching of lca's are two different causes. ours have been the liners/brackets??

while any creaking that isn't top mount related could well be lca and toasted/worn bushings/inserts. but I'm learning here also. need to be SURE!.

 

Not sure about the thrust bushing but you should be able to press out/in the inners with a rented tool from AutoZone etc. If not, any shop should be able to do it for a minimal charge if you just take the arm to them.

 

You don't need a 40 ton. Just a little 12 ton unit. Like said I got mine for 150 bucks and used it for all sorts of stuff. The 40 ton is big an a pita to do little stuff with.

 

http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200641794_200641794?hotline=fal se

This is exactly what I have at home. Harbor freight carries the same one

 

Yes, the main in bushing will have the largest effect on overall movement. If you're doing it though, I'd so the thrust bushings as well.
It's honestly amazing how much rubber bushing move. They can cause a full inch if movement on some vehicles. Makes a huge difference on performance and in this case, not rubbing the liners