problem... solved

thx gents.

 

Something that many guys forget about when looking at this problem is the bushings on the suspension arm. The stock rubber bushing move quite a bit and this causes the tires to move even more and rub. I'm switching to all poly and solid bushings in my suspension to help lower the amount of movement.

 

agree, the lca's wear out? yeah, that's next. for me, anyway. they're not cheap. going with either the gt3 or the elephants. not mono since i have to drive on streets. haven't decided which though.

they'll creak when the bushings go ( I'm told ) so thats whats making me think me NEW top mounts aren't right. its the lca's.

anyone use the adjustable elephants? or have a preference and why?? thx.

 

I ordered powerflex poly bushings of the lca inners. Press out the old and put in new poly. They are 95a bushings so quite hard poly. Only 78 bucks for both inners. I bought 2 sets though to do the fronts too.

 

Im thinking about buying both gt2 inner fender and arm from porsche and then making moulds and then redo them in carbon.

Is there any interrest for this?
The carbon pattern will not be flawless due to my inexperience with carbon, but the structural strenght will be there.
Creating the moulds will cost 1-200$ so if there is any interrest i'll go ahead and try making them and see if i can make some decent parts.

 

Weird, I run a 315 on a 12" and have plenty of room.

 

The odd ball shape of the elephant arms won't allow you to mount up the factory brake ducting unless you resort to some type of jerry rigging arrangement to hold them on but it will still never be as secure as OEM. Something to keep in mind...
Aftermarket = drawbacks...

 

I've been telling people this for a long time. Getting rid of the squishy rubber LCA thrust arm bushing will solve most of this. Your rear tire wear will also drastically improve when you eliminate the constant toe changes in the rear.

 

anyone have poli options ?

 

Do you need to pull the arm from the car to do this bushing or can you press it while attached?

 

Powerflex bushing is what I bought

 

There is a tool that would allow you to press the bushing out with the arm connected but I've only seen one online. I think it's made in Britain. Everyone just removes the LCA. It's an easy job.

 

'easy' is what I am afraid of. I originally decided to put the car down for 'light maintenance' and an oil change.

Since then
- Boost leak check.. oh, need to remove bumper to get to IC hose to fix
- Hmm, I think I hear something from TB, order new gasket
- Eh, while its apart better change out the coolant overflow tank
- Might as well get a new fuel filter while this is all apart.. and an updated mount as well
- The N75 valve seems fine but might as well replace it anyway
- While Im waiting on parts, lets check on that transmission mount

At this point, my car will see the road sometime this summer

 

you can do it in car without the tool, but I'd also say remove it and do it 'on bench'
The 'hard' part is getting the old bushing out, new solid bushings are a hand-fit

 

Can the lca be pulled and not change the alignment? Trying to decide on which parts I want to do besides the rear toe links which I know will change alignment. My car hasn't got tons of miles but I'd like to sharpen things up reasonably without driving NVH though the roof.