This Thread is usually repeated over the years.

Im looking to hybrid my k16 but I'm not sure what the best option is to go with at the moment??

I heard the k16/ 24 is out of date, the k16/16g isn't bad but lacks top end power. I also heard that the k16/26 and the k16/39 is the latest trends. Can anyone comment?


What does the great Todd (Knighton?) of 996 Turbo tuning recommend?

Thanks


Si

 

Si,

There's definitely a lot of options out there and one can say there's something for everybody. I had the pleasure of working with almost every tuner out there including Todd. We had pretty great results with A1668 turbochargers that I have built by Tial Sport. I guess the latest technology most capable of the 16 hybrids. With him and many others I've been able to make a rocksolid 650 crank horsepower on pump fuel and about 700 with race fuel. Depends on your horse our goals. Budget and other hardware come into play as well. Feel free to contact me if I can help you in anyway. I have a lot of very happy campers here with the set up.

Cheers

 

I had the K16 Hybrids on my car and felt it was the best set up for everything from daily driving to having 600+ HP toward redline. True, I could have gone bigger, but for a street car, I didn't think bigger (than the K16) was better. SamboTT knows what he is doing and is a pleasure to work with. I've gone back to a Carrera S, but miss my BHP and will be back in a TT soon. Thanks Sam! Def Rep Points....

 

there are basically 2 types, k16s 7 blade from tial and 6 blade from Blouch.
Todd uses blouch.

Ive tuned both many times... on pump gas they seem very similar.

The late randy form lambda ran a 5.86 sec 60 to 130 mph in his car after I worked on it...
food for thought... tial does re haul but is more money. in the end you cant go wrong with either, yo just have to be in budget not to cheap out on other important parts..

 

Question. I am currently running a FVD map in combination with a Milltek 200 call cat exhaust. Should I upgrade to K16 hybrid, can I run the same FVD map and do I need to change the FPR?

 

You need both. 5 bar minimum with a tune that actually is set up for a 5 bar. You have to do some injector scaling and add fuel. Then set up the boost correctly. 1 bar Wgs on ur Fvd tune would push probably 1.35 plus bar. I've seen 1.5 bar. Reason is that the n75 is now maxed out on ur tune so imagine what u would be doing to the boost on a wg twice and resistant as your oem.
I've done many of these. The irony is that Randy ran that 60 to 130 on a pump file lol I didn't even get a chance to give him a race gas map.

 

I thought a 5 bar FPR regulator can only achieve 580 bhp (crank) maximum on standard injectors.

 

Markski do I need to ship my k16's to you on an exchange in order to get this package?
https://markskituning.com/product/k16911gt-billets/

 

Yes of course you do and they have to be in good standing.
As far as a 5 bar, no one is disputing how much hp can be made, the point is most guys are even there with what they put and it's a cheap, easy to install set up. A 5 bar will handle 1.25 bar on billets which what they should be run on pump gas anyways.

 

I'm not sure why you think this. randy never ran pump gas. i can't tell you how many times i ran with him and he carries 5 gal cans of race gas in the car. virtually all of his pulls were on race fuel. personally i find it a bit offensive for you to continually grab credit for his 60-130 run when they weren't even your turbos. they were a/p k16 billet turbos. it has been shown in his threads more than once

the real reason you didn't get a chance to update any files was a blown head gasket and he moved to alpha turbos. then on to another builder and tuner

 

Was the car stock or gutted, running cats, what fuel, what boost? All that should be mentioned to give one the "big picture"...

 

Lots of good K16 choices out there. Many good tuners including Markski, Sam, and others. You don't necessarily need "billet" k16s to get excellent results. I think people assume a billet wheel is somehow superior to a cast wheel from a performance standpoint when in fact it's not. Identical wheels will perform identically whether billet or cast. There is just a much wider choice of billet wheel choices as manufacturing is relatively cheap compared to the tooling required for a cast wheel. "Billet" also sounds very cool to say. Go with a tuner that gives you the warm and fuzzy.

I run K16/997GT2RS turbos which have an OEM cast compressor wheel. Prior to my rebuild, on a stock engine these did 590whp and 631wtq at 1.25bar and 91octane gas with no intercooler fans present on the dyno. Assuming 16% drivetrain losses, that equals 700 crank HP and 750 crank ft.lb on 91 pump (on a built engine, these turbos shift the hp/tq curve about 500 rpm to the left and slightly higher while pulling hard past 7500rpm). Honestly, even though 15-17% drivetrain loss seems to be accepted practice used by tuners, I actually believe 10-12% is the actual number which would make the numbers about 30 hp/tq lower. In my case 670/720 crank on 91..

Additional supporting mods at the time were high flow injectors, RUF high flow intake manifold, RUF 2.75" turbo intake pipes, 997.2 intercoolers, ported OEM headers, and a RUF 100cell free flow exhaust. Engine was running the stock MAF and was 100% emission compliant with no cheating. Torque was limited down low to protect the rods.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/pPtjF1]

 

massive weight reductions race fuel no cats no mufflers ms105 fuel 1.6 bar