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I'm pretty sure you do not want to run a one way check valve in your fuel pressure reference line. It needs to see both boost and vacuum. Like the oem one.
Ya good catch. I was thinking it was part of a system that was run through the check valve, just looked at the stock diagram again and it's not. That's and easy fix.
Looks like you have eliminated the fuel cooler. I do not have one either as my car has A/C delete. Are you planning on running a fuel controller of some type to reduce the amount of return fuel? Does Proefi allow you to control pump output through PWM? Looks like you are running two Walbro 450s, correct? Even when running a single Walbro 450 fuel heating is very problematic otherwise and you will likely have issues especially on warm days. Ask me how I know....
Looks like you have eliminated the fuel cooler. I do not have one either as my car has A/C delete. Are you planning on running a fuel controller of some type to reduce the amount of return fuel? Does Proefi allow you to control pump output through PWM? Looks like you are running two Walbro 450s, correct? Even when running a single Walbro 450 fuel heating is very problematic otherwise and you will likely have issues especially on warm days. Ask me how I know....
Idk if proefi can control voltage to the pump but it does have a seperate signal for the second pump. The second pump will probabaly be set to come on above 10 psi, possible a little heighter.
I'm keeping the ac but yes did not run through the cooler. I could add an inline cooler down under the car and make a little cent for it in the undertray.
Idk if proefi can control voltage to the pump but it does have a seperate signal for the second pump. The second pump will probabaly be set to come on above 10 psi, possible a little heighter.
I'm keeping the ac but yes did not run through the cooler. I could add an inline cooler down under the car and make a little cent for it in the undertray.
You do not want to control the pump output by dropping voltage. PWM is the correct way to do it and that's what the 450 is designed for. Even running a single unregulated 450 has lead to excessive fuel heating / boiling on hot days due to the large increase in volume of fuel being circulated and endlessly reheated. This becomes even a greater issue when your car is operated at higher altitudes as the boiling temperature of fuel decreases. I'm at +5000' and it's been a big issue for me on hot track days unless I add cool fuel prior to each track session. The under car cooler in the tunnel fed with air via a NACA duct does not really work well as it relies on the car moving at a rather high rate of speed (80-100mph+) to get any meaningful amount of moving through the cooler core, and even then it's rather meager. I've tested that. At low speed or when in traffic when you need it most as fuel return is highest and heating greatest, it's useless. You would have to employ some type of fan (similar to front radiator fans but smaller) that would be drawing a substantial amount of air over the core. Just something to think about when running big fuel systems with the cooling system removed..
You do not want to control the pump output by dropping voltage. PWM is the correct way to do it and that's what the 450 is designed for. Even running a single 450 unregulated 450 has lead to excessive fuel heating / boiling on hot days due to the endless high volume of fuel being circulated and endlessly reheated. This becomes even a greater issue when your car is operated at higher altitudes as the boiling temperature of fuel decreases. I'm at +5000' and it's been a big issue for me on hot track days unless I add cool fuel prior to each track session. The under car cooler in the tunnel fed with air via a NACA duct does not really work well as it relies on the car moving at a rather high rate of speed (80-100mph+) to get any meaningful amount of moving through the cooler core, and even then it's rather meager. I've tested that. At low speed or when in traffic when you need it most as fuel return is highest and heating greatest, it's useless. Just something to think about when running big fuel systems with the cooling system removed..
Well I'm at low elevation in mn and nd and very rarely in low speed situations with the car. I did just order and inline cooler. I think I'll mount it in a tube with a blower motor to pull air through there. I think that would help. Atleast air passing through then at low speed or stopped.
Pretty excited. Have been looking for some time for a decent used trailer for the model garage for the 911 after getting rid of my other enclose because it was only 7.5 wide.
Well driving by a trailer place today on my way back from the office (it's 3.5 hours home lol), found a great deal on a 8.5x28 v nose with 7k axles instead of 5k.
Well since I'm sitting here idle because the power went out for some odd reason I guess I'll post up what I did last night.
Got the manifolds off and ported. Should help spool and up top power a bit. My front canards came in the mail yesterday as well and I need to get them mounted as well as my rennline front vent mesh covers to keep rocks and leafs out.
Wrapped the headers with titanium wrap as I usually do. These ones are hard to do a nice job on. Used extra stainless zip ties. Looks kinda ugly but function over form for me usually.
I ported mine too a few years back. There is a lot of material there to remove. I bet you gain a good 10-15% extra area. As far as the header wrap, I'm not sure how much it really does if anything on these headers as they are very short and double walled which effectively acts as a fantastic insulator. That is why none of the aftermarket headers can really hold a candle to the OEM Boysens in my opinion.
Joe's dive planes are nice. I have these on my bumper. Attach each one with 3 small black button head allen bolts going into small T-nuts installed on the back on the bumper. I put double sided 3M tape on the dive planes and then bolted them down. They are going nowhere...
I ported mine too a few years back. There is a lot of material there to remove. I bet you gain a good 10-15% extra area. As far as the header wrap, I'm not sure how much it really does if anything on these headers as they are very short and double walled which effectively acts as a fantastic insulator. That is why none of the aftermarket headers can really hold a candle to the OEM Boysens in my opinion.
Joe's dive planes are nice. I have these on my bumper. Attach each one with 3 small black button head allen bolts going into small T-nuts installed on the back on the bumper. I put double sided 3M tape on the dive planes and then bolted them down. They are going nowhere...
Ya it's a large gain. I port everything I can. I do lots of turbos, manifold, and head porting for local guys.
The wrap probabaly won't help much like said being so short but at least it will keep the heat down some when sitting around for long periods. I have turbo blanks for the turbine housings as well.
Mounting the dive planes I think I'm going to take a bit different approach from most. Was going to make a backing plate and double side tape that to the inside of the bumper and then use tape and 3 or 4 screws to hold it on. Then if I want to go to something like a half mile event, I can take them off in 5 min to reduce drag at high speeds.
O just finished assembling one of my k20/billet 20g turbos as well and about to bolt it on. Then I need to assemble the other and hopefully get it on tonight as well.
Well had an ok weekend, like normal didn't get as much done as a guy wants to.
Got the engine 95% finished up besides the clutch.Turbos on, sensors in the motor installed and wires ran. Got the proefi in the car but have to figure out how to fit it all back where the stock ecu was. Got the canards mounted with backing plates so I can take them off easily if I'm at something like a 1/2 mile event. Clutch slave is on.
Biggest thing that pissed me off was trying to put the clutch on. You need shorter bolts and a different pilot bearing and it doesn't come with them. You'd think a 4200 dollar clutch would come with that stuff. So going to have to try and get those tomorrow.
did you clearance the inside of the bellhousing? it needs just a small trim. install the clutch fork and work it back and forth. you will see what needs to be done
i see you run the pipe from the secondary servo pump and to the servo container top.
Did you remove the smal coupling in the pump?
Any reason you dont want/trust the electronic dipstick?
I'm a bit confused on what your asking about the pump. I was just removed and I made a block off plate for it.
As for the dipstick, some people have issues with it readin from time to time. Adding the mechanical dipstick can only be don't with the engine pulled. For 100 bucks I figured why not have a secondary way to check it.
04-12-2016, 05:37 AM
