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It's not the PSS9, 10's, it's all coilovers with height adjustability. I removed my front diff and axles, then went new rear tires that were 1" taller than what I had. My handling became unmanageable. I tried everything to no avail. I ended up getting new front tires to match the rear within 3-4 revolutions per mile. It's not just the viscous coupling in the front diff, it's the PSM that doesn't like mismatched tire diameters.
So now, I've had my wheels off over a dozen times and changed ride heights all over the place, I'm starting to feel I'm getting close. I want about 1.5 to 1.75" lower than stock at both ends. I went from tires squealing in turns at the speed limit and sliding around to finally being able to push the car really hard and having all 4 tires stick with neutral handling, no PSM, no diff and no front wheel drive. The last big change was when I dropped the front another 1/16" and left the rear as is.
The ride height relationship on these cars is most critical as is the rake angle. Once you get it sorted do some rudimentary checks for F&R toe and camber. If you are off a degree or so it won't make a huge difference as long as you are at the minimum required in the right direction. When everything is right, it feels near perfect, steering is effortless, the car will dive or glide into turns and stay on line. Speeds over 100 MPH on a good road will allow hand off the wheel for a few seconds too. If it doesn't feel perfect it's probably not right somewhere.
Currently I'm at 4 1/8" front, 4 7/8" rear half tank of fuel, no driver, measured at factory chassis points.
It's not the PSS9, 10's, it's all coilovers with height adjustability. I removed my front diff and axles, then went new rear tires that were 1" taller than what I had. My handling became unmanageable. I tried everything to no avail. I ended up getting new front tires to match the rear within 3-4 revolutions per mile. It's not just the viscous coupling in the front diff, it's the PSM that doesn't like mismatched tire diameters.
So now, I've had my wheels off over a dozen times and changed ride heights all over the place, I'm starting to feel I'm getting close. I want about 1.5 to 1.75" lower than stock at both ends. I went from tires squealing in turns at the speed limit and sliding around to finally being able to push the car really hard and having all 4 tires stick with neutral handling, no PSM, no diff and no front wheel drive. The last big change was when I dropped the front another 1/16" and left the rear as is.
The ride height relationship on these cars is most critical as is the rake angle. Once you get it sorted do some rudimentary checks for F&R toe and camber. If you are off a degree or so it won't make a huge difference as long as you are at the minimum required in the right direction. When everything is right, it feels near perfect, steering is effortless, the car will dive or glide into turns and stay on line. Speeds over 100 MPH on a good road will allow hand off the wheel for a few seconds too. If it doesn't feel perfect it's probably not right somewhere.
Currently I'm at 4 1/8" front, 4 7/8" rear half tank of fuel, no driver, measured at factory chassis points.
Post the measurements from the ground to the fender opening Nick. It's a number most guys here can relate to as few know where the factory measuring points are located. I'm a bit skeptical of your measurement however. 4 1/8" in the front equals to 105mm which is very low. 6GT2 is 118-123mm in the front so you are almost 3/4" lower than that. If you were at 4 7/8" (124mm) the rear you would be almost 1/2" lower than 6GT2 (133-138mm). With PSS10s you would be resting on the bump stops at those height. I'm at 102mm (4.0") in the front and my tires tuck under the fenders at that height as you can see in the pic below. in the rear I'm at 123mm, so basically same as your #. Obviously I'm not on PSS10s. I highly doubt you could be that low. Also list tire sizes as they will effect ride height slightly. I'm on taller tire which effectively puts my suspension lower. Keep in mind that Bilstein specifies a very narrow ride height range oh the PSS10s which is relatively high, less than an inch lower than stock. There is very little leeway..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/JivsWx]
Last edited by pwdrhound; Jul 18, 2016 at 04:12 PM.
Post the measurements from the ground to the fender opening Nick. It's a number most guys here can relate to as few know where the factory measuring points are located. I'm a bit skeptical of your measurement however. 4 1/8" in the front equals to 105mm which is very low. 6GT2 is 118-123mm in the front so you are almost 3/4" lower than that. If you were at 4 7/8" (124mm) the rear you would be almost 1/2" lower than 6GT2 (133-138mm). With PSS10s you would be resting on the bump stops at those height. I'm at 102mm (4.0") in the front and my tires tuck under the fenders at that height as you can see in the pic below. in the rear I'm at 123mm, so basically same as your #. Obviously I'm not on PSS10s. I highly doubt you could be that low. Also list tire sizes as they will effect ride height slightly. I'm on taller tire which effectively puts my suspension lower. Keep in mind that Bilstein specifies a very narrow ride height range oh the PSS10s which is relatively high, less than an inch lower than stock. There is very little leeway..
[url=https://flic.kr/p/JivsWx]
Yes, I know I'm low. Lower than both ROW GT2 and ROW GT3. Here's a pic I just took in the garage of the front at 24 3/4" fender opening to ground, rear looks to be 25 1/4". I'm on Sumitomo HTRZ 2, 245/40ZR18 front and 285/35ZR18 rear. Fronts are 25.8" diameter at 806 revs, rears 25.9 at 809 revs/mile. I still have more work to do. I will keep fiddling with my ride height until my handling gets worse, then go back to where it felt best. If it's not too low, I'll get a pro alignment.
Yes, I know I'm low. Lower than both ROW GT2 and ROW GT3. Here's a pic I just took in the garage of the front at 24 3/4" fender opening to ground, rear looks to be 25 1/4". I'm on Sumitomo HTRZ 2, 245/40ZR18 front and 285/35ZR18 rear. Fronts are 25.8" diameter at 806 revs, rears 25.9 at 809 revs/mile. I still have more work to do. I will keep fiddling with my ride height until my handling gets worse, then go back to where it felt best. If it's not too low, I'll get a pro alignment.
You are riding on the internal bumps tops at that height with PSS10s. I'd set it at the Bilstein specified height.
You are riding on the internal bumps tops at that height with PSS10s. I'd set it at the Bilstein specified height.
I'm within the manufacturers recommended range of adjustment and I'm using KW V1 coilovers not PSS9,10. My tires now are about 1" taller than my previous ones and with them I experimented and did get it to the point of bottoming on the bump stops. It rode like a ridged frame chopper, lol. I believe I have my full range of motion now, I'll check and if not adjust from there.
I have my PSS10 set to Bilsten specific height range (the highest setting for both F&R within the range). Car handles fine now, however, I found the car being quite low and will scrap my front lip when going up or down steep slope in parking lot. I want to know if is ok to raise my height by around 10 - 15mm (both F&R) be fine? will if affect the handling? I know set lower than Bilsten manual range is bad, but is higher ok?
I just checked my ride height (ground to fender), and is 25 1/4" both front and rear. I have went to 2 shops to check and ensure I'm within the Bilsten spec max ride "taller" height (I have the European version and ROW 996TT, not sure it makes any difference.) I see on the forum that many people is at ride height between 25 1/2" - 26". So I think I will try to raise it another 15mm to see the difference.
Last edited by Endless3; Aug 12, 2016 at 11:08 AM.
