That is correct.

 

John how are you going to deal with the piece on the actual bumper? I may be interested but I was going to do these flares instead because there were no other good options available. A full fender would ne nice though depending on price.

 

No. They would be designed to blend seamlessly into the OEM bumper. The OEM bumper would be mounted slightly more outboard (the bumper attachment point is at the fender) to accommodate the wider fender.

Yes, the aerospace IC project is alive and well. There was a delay as the supplier in Europe screwed up and transposed some numbers thus sending us cores of the wrong size, 2cm longer. As a result they had to go back and fabricate brand new cores which should be shipping tomorrow. With the typical customs delays and all the permit BS to involved in importing stuff from a defense contractor, I'm thinking we'll have them in 2 weeks. End tanks offered will be pretty trick, CNC'd aluminum tanks.

 

I love the idea and these cars like some more tire upfront. When I ran a 275- 335 combo RA-1s was the best mine has ever felt, but the 275s did get cut by the front fender a bit.

 

Again Freddy, all this stuff is very much prelim. The way I see it is that the shape of the fender would be blended to the bumper. The transition would be more gradual so you would not have the sharp fender lip on the fender itself but it would be more blended into the fender.

 

I don't have any rubbing with 275/335s but it's very tight and you have to run an aggressive alignment with a lot of high $$ suspension stuff to make it work. The wider fenders would make it easier obviously.

 

I'm definitely installing 275/335 soon and need a solution. If the CF options are subtle and reasonably priced I would be motivated get in on the order.

I'd prefer a less expensive option such as fiberglass fender extensions (Joe Toth?). They could be applied via adhesive and no external rivets or screws to achieve the same result. It would be ideal if the style/shape of the extensions could replicate the subtle fender posted by DSCOFF. I might be alone here in this thinking as few here would cut their original fenders for clearance. My car has > 100K miles so I'd have no problem with this approach. I find the front extension fender body kit option options on the market for our 996 fugly.

 

I would be in for a pair dependent on price.

 

Any chance of vents?



Also I suppose the fender wouldn't have to meet the bumper in the OEM way, a splitter could always be attached to the back side of the bumper to meet the wider fender similar to the CF extension EBWerks offers.

 

ya...someone said something like 3000$? Just make some bolt on RWB type ones. Leave the stock fender in tact.

 

The problem with anything that leaves the front fender completely intact, is that at a proper ride height for the track, it wouldn't really help with getting a bigger tire under the front.

 

Putting the add-on fenders lips is absolutely pointless unless you cut the lip off the existing fender. The whole point of the bolt of fender extensions is so that you can cut the fender lip below it which creates more clearance. Otherwise it's just for looks.

 

Yes, you would cut it, but would retain the stock fenders. Bolt on the new, and go.

 

Changed out the springs in my KW's and rolled my front fenders this weekend. Everything was out, including removing the bumper fasteners closest to the fender.

I held the bumper out 1" (where the bumper meets the fender at the wheel opening). This showed how the fender would need to move out starting at the bottom of headlamp where it intersects the bumper.

IMO an inch is achievable without visible distortions to the bumper. The bumper should still meet up with the headlight with a factory fit. I doubt it would be very noticeable and still honor the lines of the car. There would need to be some non-visible adjustments below to the front tray and the liners will require shaping and extensions.

Going wider than 1” looks to be problem without lengthening the bumper as the bumper becomes shorter as you push it away from the centerline of the car.

I did a clearance check by installing the KWv3’s without the spring. The suspension was articulated with varying degrees of turn-in to full lock. The pinch points are where the bumper and fender meet at the light (call that 10 o’clock) to 1 o’clock.

The clearance check was done with 9” finspeed, ET 47, 235/45-18. Camber set at max stock negative camber. My rads have already been moved forward 1” and my liners reshaped for max room.

If build correctly, they could look stock. Eager to see the cost of these flared units.

 

Interesting. Following this.

I was going to find a way to make the 997 RS stick on fender flares work and then cut the fender behind it to give actual clearance. I'm not convinced there is a difference in the shape/size of the wheel opening area when measuring side by side with my neighbor's 997 that would rule out the stick on on the fender portion from fitting...

Wouldn't surprise me if something about it isn't the same.