Clutch issue?
Clutch issue?
in most gears (all?) when i get on it over 4k rpm something slips and the revs spike up without the car going any faster?
i am sure for those that know this means the XYZ has gone bad...can someone pls tell me what the XYZ is?
thanks!
i am sure for those that know this means the XYZ has gone bad...can someone pls tell me what the XYZ is?
thanks!
While you're at it, get a full kit with a lightweight flywheel. It will increase response, and you wont have to resurface the wheel with the new disc and pressure plate. Might as well upgrade while you have the chance, and so it will hold up to more abuse.
^ with any/all respect, its best to ascertain what one's individual goals for the car might be, before recommending a clutch replacement utilizing a lwfw. while it is no doubt lighter, faster revving, its also capable of some major chatter making it a dubious choice for any primarily street driven 996 turbo.
i second 32's assessment of estimated hourly labor/parts etc. on mine, we did it on a rented lift in 6 hrs +/- using all sachs oem w my only add on being an unsprung gt2 clutch disc.
me, i like the quiet oem clutch but no doubt about it. a lwfw has some definite advantages having less,.. umm, mass lol.
i second 32's assessment of estimated hourly labor/parts etc. on mine, we did it on a rented lift in 6 hrs +/- using all sachs oem w my only add on being an unsprung gt2 clutch disc.
me, i like the quiet oem clutch but no doubt about it. a lwfw has some definite advantages having less,.. umm, mass lol.
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i will be driving only on the street (daily) and i am looking to keep it stock...thanks for the suggestions though...very helpful
Last edited by EdLebby; Nov 9, 2016 at 06:37 PM.
Sachs 2.5 clutch and call it a day.
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
the car is relatively new to me - b/c it goes to 1.2 bars, i know it must have had a flash done to the ecu (hope i am using the right jargon)
also, the exhaust is aftermarket
the car is an x50
perhaps with all of this a more robust clutch than stock is recommended?
would the 2.5 handle this setup?
thanks guys
also, the exhaust is aftermarket
the car is an x50
perhaps with all of this a more robust clutch than stock is recommended?
would the 2.5 handle this setup?
thanks guys
the car is relatively new to me - b/c it goes to 1.2 bars, i know it must have had a flash done to the ecu (hope i am using the right jargon)
also, the exhaust is aftermarket
the car is an x50
perhaps with all of this a more robust clutch than stock is recommended?
would the 2.5 handle this setup?
thanks guys
also, the exhaust is aftermarket
the car is an x50
perhaps with all of this a more robust clutch than stock is recommended?
would the 2.5 handle this setup?
thanks guys
kevin from rennlist (ultimate motor works) has some good sales on the 2.5 if your staying in the street theres no need to run a lwfw but inspect the dual mass oem flywheel . if you see any hotspots or uneven wear get a new one. add another 800$ for the flywheel
LWFW depends heavily on what option you go for, and more times than not, the chatter comes from the disk, not the flywheel. I've had a number of them in previous cars, and I'm running one in my WRX, never experienced chatter of any kind until I ran a 6 puck.
I typically recommend the LWFW simply because it adds to performance, and when I do upgrades I try and go all out instead of replacing half of the assembly. Not to mention that if his clutch is slipping, he will either need a new flywheel, or have to get it resurfaced, since there will be glazing/hot spots on it.
In regards to OP from everyone else's advice, I would strongly encourage going with the Sachs 2.5 for the reasons stated above. Your stock clutch already slipped on you, no point in putting in another clutch that can/will do the same down the road.
I typically recommend the LWFW simply because it adds to performance, and when I do upgrades I try and go all out instead of replacing half of the assembly. Not to mention that if his clutch is slipping, he will either need a new flywheel, or have to get it resurfaced, since there will be glazing/hot spots on it.
In regards to OP from everyone else's advice, I would strongly encourage going with the Sachs 2.5 for the reasons stated above. Your stock clutch already slipped on you, no point in putting in another clutch that can/will do the same down the road.







