Hi guys,

I have the occasional crunch when going into second when cold. Don't have pop out but I assume the gearbox will need a rebuild at some point in the future, probably not for a while as long as I'm careful warming up.

I realise that it's hard to estimate costs of a rebuild without opening up the gearbox. Can anyone give me a ball park figure for a typical rebuild?

Car is stock power and will stay that way.

Thanks

 

a porsche warranty claim for 2nd gear popout saved me $8k. they had to re-open it a 2nd time to repair what they didnt the first time. all they replaced was the 1/2 synchros etc. thankfully i had the prescience to pay the cpo tax at time of purchase.

the 2nd time i needed trans work another car needed a trans refresh to replace thrust/pinion bearings which were shot.

added a wavetrac lsd and all in was $3k+/- to open and r&r the box. plus six hours of labor $ to remove and replace the box once repaired.

so depending upon your shop choices ( indie or porsche ) where you reside, you're looking at somewhere in btw those figures. i'd really shop around and go where others have gone successfully before.

 

If you don't have a second gear pop out issue, I would start by bleeding the clutch. If there's a little air in the system, it can cause 2nd gear to grind a little.

It can also cause it to be a little stubborn to get into reverse or 1st, when the clutch needs to be bled.

Later, Steve

 

...and also when the trans oil is in need of changing, it can be hard to engage when cold.

the 90k gear oil service rec from porsche is woefully optimistic.

 

Thanks for your input. Only reason for me making the enquiry was that a mechanic from a new specialist I used to fit my ABS pump mentioned that on the test drive 2nd and 3rd weren't easy to get into. I've had the car 2.5 yrs and had the odd crunch 3 or 4 times going into second when cold. I've driven around it since or rev matched. Fine once warmed up. Had the gear oil changed and it was a bit better. Never had any issue with 3rd so not sure what he was doing there!

In in my opinion the 'box takes a little more precision and timing than a few other performance cars I've had. I have a short shift kit and it's a very direct and accurate shift but a little notchy so can't be rushed. Only thoughts are that he was treating the 'box like one from an S2000 or something and trying to do super quick changes.

It drove fine on the way home from the specialist's shop.

Something to keep an eye on but won't be delving into the gearbox just yet.

 

agreed. I just dumped the trans. oil at 50K miles, and my guy said it was time. Shifts are fine, but of course it gets a little easier 1-2 once it's warmed up. Esp. since I have a SSK.

 

yeah, i'm kinda funny about gear oil changes. i figure it's an hour to r&r and a cpl liters of delvac and is cheap "insurance". mine shifts like a knife thru butter with a 997ssk even when cold.

i do NOT wanna open this box again, anytime soon

 

sounds like the syncros are going not popout. i replaced 3, 4 syncros on mine for 2000$ labor plus 500$ in gt2 steel syncros

 

Consider your motor and transmission mounts too.
If they are original, most likely they're shot and allowing the whole drive-train to move around under accel/brake/corner. If you notice it being harder to shift into 2nd/3rd under acceleration could be a sign.
The play is noticeable once you have fresh ones installed.
15 yr old rubber...

As for your estimate on cost, the only way to know what is shot is to open it up.
I'm sure you can find a reasonable shop in Dubai - hahaha

 

Yes, haha indeed. Engine mounts have been done. Really don't get what he was on about as it shifts in to third perfectly and second once warmed up. Just have to take your time in second when cold. Checked with a mate's car and it's the same for him in second.

 

Have the cables ever been replaced? It's possible the shifter needs adjusting so be sure to check that - mine needs it for sure!

 

Thanks but doubt it as it only does it when cold.

 

I'd get the fluid changed with Delvac and see what it looks like/amount of hair on the plug and then drive it once the slave bleed, cable adjustment, brackets, and all connections have been checked.
You never mentioned miles/km on the car but it doesn't seem to matter too much as it seems some have issues at 25k and others go 100k before having to replace synchros, bearings, etc.
Hopefully some fresh fluid and not hurrying 2nd gear shifts are all you need for a while.

 

Thanks. I've recently had the fluid changed with porsche fluids - whatever the standard 996 Turbo fluid is. Is this Delvac stuff any better?

 

Delvac is what most run and what I believe the motorsports program uses. I use Royal Purple only.