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I stumbled over this several months ago: http://performanceshock.com/index.ph...oducts_id=1173
Nice idea - though you'd have to give them a call and see what the deal is with spacers and your shocks. Especially as you need some sort of misalignment spacer.
The JRZ idea seems good. John, is that rubber around a misalignment spacer or how does that work?
That's interesting. I'd assumed that you need some sort of tolerance in the shock's side to side movement - which is why Porsche used heim joints in the bottom of the shocks.
So, theoretically, VAG could solve his turning problem by stacking washers of the appropriate thickness over the misalignment spacers on both sides...
On another note: John, you've looked at the problems associated with installing 997 uprights on a 996? Did you find anyone who has gotten around the ABS issues? Is there a possibility of machining smaller, 996 style reluctor rings?
Last edited by stevemfr; Apr 29, 2017 at 07:15 AM.
That's interesting. I'd assumed that you need some sort of tolerance in the shock's side to side movement - which is why Porsche used heim joints in the bottom of the shocks.
So, theoretically, VAG could solve his turning problem by stacking washers of the appropriate thickness over the misalignment spacers on both sides...
On another note: John, you've looked at the problems associated with installing 997 uprights on a 996? Did you find anyone who has gotten around the ABS issues? Is there a possibility of machining smaller, 996 style reluctor rings?
Steve, on the JRZs, the heim joint does have room to "work". There is a small amount of room between the shock body and the large black spacers that are sandwiched on either side of it. As you can see in the clip below, there is about 1mm play on either side so the shock body can more back and forth by that amount. There is just no need to have more rotation than that. There is also another monoball in the upper mount that will allow the shock to rotate if needed thus eliminating any potential binding.
As far as the rings go, you can machine what ever ABS rings you want. I'm using custom ABS rings in the front that have more teeth than the OEM 48 tooth version. Basically what we did was machine the toothed portion off of the OEM GT2 rings and added a ring with 49 teeth instead. The toothed ring simply bolts on to the body of the tension bolt and as such we can machine whatever diameter ring we'd like with however many teeth we want.
Understood. That seems to be the most sensible solution, then. Thank you for going through the trouble of making a vid.
Yes, machining rings is not the issue, that's clear. I was just worried that if the diameter is reduced too much, the tooth spacing would be too tight to provide the 996 ABS sensors with enough definition.
Yes, machining rings is not the issue, that's clear. I was just worried that if the diameter is reduced too much, the tooth spacing would be too tight to provide the 996 ABS sensors with enough definition.
Are you running 7 uprights? What about the rears?
I'm running the 6GT3/Cup uprights. Same as GT2 if I recall. The ABS ring is significantly larger on those than the TT so the spacing is obviously a little different yet the ABS sensor is the same. This leads me to believe that there is a lot of latitude in the sensitivity of the sensor.
Changing to the 7 uprights would require new wheels which I don't wanna do at this time. If you go to the 7 parts you need to do all 4 corners which necessitates new rear subframes, sway bar, etc. I an instead adding the longer RSR trunnion pins (Porsche Motorsport makes 3 different lengths) to my LCAs which lowers the upright pick up points further thus raising the roll centers and further improving the geometry. Good enough for me...
Last edited by pwdrhound; Apr 30, 2017 at 10:27 AM.
Thanks, John!
I'd like to go with the 7.2GT2/3 uprights - and it'd be nice to find someone who's done a viable work-around for the reluctor rings before I buy all the parts. I'm quite sure there is a solution, but it'd be nice to know in advance.
Thanks, John!
I'd like to go with the 7.2GT2/3 uprights - and it'd be nice to find someone who's done a viable work-around for the reluctor rings before I buy all the parts. I'm quite sure there is a solution, but it'd be nice to know in advance.
I guess I'm not following. Why wouldn't you just use the 7GT3 rings that go with the respective upright?
I guess I'm not following. Why wouldn't you just use the 7GT3 rings that go with the respective upright?
The 7 GT3 street uses an updated active type ABS speed sensor not compatible with our ABS system due to sensor size. The 996 uses either one that is magnetic passive that picks up the notches in a reluctor ring or the latter one that sense magnetized rollers in a wheel bearing. Both of the two sensor types for the 996 mechanically fit the same spindles. The 997 street versions are completely different dimensionally and are not compatible with our ABS.
The solution is to just use the 997 GT3cup upright as they maintain the same type of sensors as the 996.
The 7 GT3 street uses an updated active type ABS speed sensor not compatible with our ABS system due to sensor size. The 996 uses either one that is magnetic passive that picks up the notches in a reluctor ring or the latter one that sense magnetized rollers in a wheel bearing. Both of the two sensor types for the 996 mechanically fit the same spindles. The 997 street versions are completely different dimensionally and are not compatible with our ABS.
The solution is to just use the 997 GT3cup upright as they maintain the same type of sensors as the 996.
Gotcha. I didn't even consider the street parts. I knew the Cup stuff is fully compatible.
VAG, you never posted anything about how your suspension is working out (or did I miss it)?
Great so far. Just pulled it out of hibernation finally. It is quite rainy here in the PNW and the cup LSD is not suggested for rainy street driving apparently. Just dialing in the dampers. Much better than the H&Rs. The LSD does wonders as well. Car is loud though with though with the solid motormounts, LWFW, Torque solution transmission mounts and cup shift cables 😳.
The plan is to shake down the suspension to a reasonable level on the street then do another alignment and corner balance once I am close on damper settings to finish it off on the finer details on the track.
Great so far. Just pulled it out of hibernation finally. It is quite rainy here in the PNW and the cup LSD is not suggested for rainy street driving apparently. Just dialing in the dampers. Much better than the H&Rs. The LSD does wonders as well. Car is loud though with though with the solid motormounts, LWFW, Torque solution transmission mounts and cup shift cables ��.
The plan is to shake down the suspension to a reasonable level on the street then do another alignment and corner balance once I am close on damper settings to finish it off on the finer details on the track.
I'm very curious to hear how you progress. I've got a cup suspension as well - tho I've also gone in another direction and picked up a 997 GT2 PASM suspension. I am likely going to swap to 997.2 GT2/3 uprights all around and run the TPC Racing DSC with the OEM GT2 PASM shocks to begin with, just to see how it is. I've read almost nothing negative even from guys running on the track. And I love the idea of a softer suspension for the street.
