I purchased a repair kit for my rear window regulator and planned to install it today. If this doesn't work out, I'm going to https://powerwindowrepair.com as recommended by one of the wonderful souls on this site.

One of my original pulleys was cracked and as you can see from the picture, its somewhat unrepairable. I have removed the pieces of it, but now the center fastener remains, and I have no idea how to remove it. On the left are the replacement parts, including the thin pulley and a new metal fastener. This fastener is smooth and gives no indication of how its supposed to be installed.

Does anyone have any suggestions for removal of the existing one before i start manhandling this thing? Thanks!

 

Can you see what's behind it? Is there a screw or a rivet?

 

Look at the new part there are no threads. It is swaged in . Drill out the old head on the back side, install the new one in its place and swage the head over

 

Slider, its looks like a rivet on the other side, which has a flat head about the same size as the one on the side shown in my picture. Third-Reef, I think you may be correct, though I had to do some research to understand what swaging is. This won't be the same riveted look it currently has but I expect it will work. Any recommendations on the proper swaging tool to use with this? I assume this would be called a flaring tool correct?

 

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of... I don't know what tool it requires - the manual is really thin on details there. If you are really stuck, take the three pieces to the dealer and ask them to fasten it for you. I know my dealer would do it happily. It should take a minute or two with the right tool.

 

I'm drill it out and then and then search around this week and see if I can find something. If not, I've still got the window regulator repair group I mentioned above, which are in AZ. Just spoke to them. They use metal replacement parts rather than plastic, the cost is $199 plus shipping for the 996TT and they provide a 48 hr turnaround after receipt. Sounds like an excellent fallback position.

 

Take a bolt that is slightly larger in diameter than the area to swage. Size does not really matter much here as long as it is bigger. Grind a chamfer on it at 45 deg so the chamfer edge just fits into the hole in thr back of the rivet. Assemble it with the rivet, it is important the head of the rivet be sitting on something flat and very solid. Like something steel not wood. Get it all lined up with the bolt with the chamfer seated in the hole of the rivet and give it s smack with a hammer. Just enough until it is tight and the one more good one.

 

I have a tool from a boat canvas snap repair kit available at West Marine. Does exactly what Third-Reef is describing. Based on OP picture it looks to be about the right size. Maybe worth a look. Kit was very inexpensive.

 

Excellent. I'm going to work on it this weekend. I'll check out West Marine for the tool. Thanks!

 

I had the exact same issue, just replaced the entire assy; wasn't terribly expensive (the knock-off)

 

I managed to get the kit installed, though it wasn't as easy as I hoped. there are a couple of things to watch out for. First, the fastener that needed to be swaged/flared into place to attach the pulley on the left doesn't go easily. IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure the side of the pulley with the two small holes is facing away from the regulator body when installing. The section of the fastener that needs to open up is quite thick and it essentially cracked along the edge in several placed as it opened up, which may be the intention. Heating might have helped soften the metal but it's done now so we'll see how it holds. Seems solidly in place. To flare the fastener, I found a tool at Lowes that holds a drill bit in a spring loaded metal part with a chamfered edge on the working side. It reminds me a bit of my cabinet-making tools for creating counter-sink holes for screw heads, but without the cutting edges. I removed the drill bit and the spring and then had a chamfered edge to hammer into the fastener to flare it. Initially I went to West Marine but they didn't have anything strong enough to make the flare. Pipe flaring tools also don't work as they use a mechanism to hold the pipe, which wouldn't fit here. In the end, I would suggest using a weather-resistant screw/nut combo and an offset sleeve over the screw body to go through the pulley. If my current setup doesn't hold, I'll try that.

The other pulley required pulling back the flared edges that held it in place, removing the old one and installing the new one, then re-flaring the edges, which was pretty simple.

Installation of the new cable was tricky as it's just barely long enough. The trick is in the pulley on the left and using those two small holes. Once you have installed the cable correctly through the guide area and around the drive pulley, pull the cable toward the pulley on the left and hook the cable in the small knockout on the edge of the pulley's edge. Then insert two pointy devices in the holes and force the pulley to turn and load the cable on the pulley. This is assisted by the mechanism which moves the window, since the cables terminate in this device using spring-loaded terminations. As you rotate the pulley, the springs will compress enough to allow the pulley to load the cable.

Now grease the crap out of everything and reinstall. The kit can be found at the link below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carrera-911...torefresh=true

 

Everything installed and works like a champ. When reinstalling, the rear side windows will not go up with the top down but you'll need to much of the work with the top down. There is an override button in the roof locking mechanism located above the mirror in the front window. Push it in with a finger and you can try the window regulator up/down before reinstalling everything. This is especially helpful when you adjust the position of the window to line up with the door window.

 

What grease do you use on the regulator cables?

 

Sorry for the late reply. I used Lithium grease.

 

As a side note, it's been a year and a half now and the install is working without issue so I guess I did something right.