Looking for info on how to add fluid to the rear wing setup
#2
04-24-2018, 02:50 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 107
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I followed these instructions from poster 911mike more than 2 years ago and have not had a problem since:
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
#3
04-25-2018, 05:14 AM
let me know if we can help with an eRam Kit down the road.
PS: I am a sponsor under Rennkit-Dave
PS: I am a sponsor under Rennkit-Dave
#4
04-25-2018, 07:38 AM
I followed these instructions from poster 911mike more than 2 years ago and have not had a problem since:
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
I used this method about 6 years ago and it worked well. I need to do it again now as I just started getting the warning light again.
#6
04-25-2018, 08:05 AM
Save yourself a lot of trouble and just remove the entire deck-lid and flip the thing over on a bench. It takes about 20 seconds to remove. You won't spill a drop and your back will thank you.
#7
04-25-2018, 12:35 PM
Refill works, just that it’s a band aid and it will fail again. They need to be refurbished with new seals to prevent quicker failure.
I bit the bullet and got the eram kit from rennkitt. Couldn’t be happier.
I bit the bullet and got the eram kit from rennkitt. Couldn’t be happier.
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#9
04-26-2018, 01:50 PM
why do you guys still bother with this thing? there are GT2 upgrades, other aftermarket fixed wings, fixed couplers. I just dont understand why you guys endure the headache for no reason, not to mention a gt2 rear looks a billion times better.
#12
04-27-2018, 06:16 AM
2) I like a wing that moves and works as the factory intended
3) I will never, not in this lifetime or the next, pay $1500 for a set of $50 linear actuators.
No disrespect to those who came up with the product. As a machinist, I try to make as many parts as I can to improve the platform but holy crap that's crazy mark-up!
I'll eventually come up with a permanent solution to the wing issue or ,if someone comes up with a reasonably priced electric version, I'll buy that.
In the meantime, a top off will last me a few years.
#14
04-28-2018, 09:10 PM
1) I don't have a GT2, so i will never have a GT2 wing.
2) I like a wing that moves and works as the factory intended
3) I will never, not in this lifetime or the next, pay $1500 for a set of $50 linear actuators.
No disrespect to those who came up with the product. As a machinist, I try to make as many parts as I can to improve the platform but holy crap that's crazy mark-up!
I'll eventually come up with a permanent solution to the wing issue or ,if someone comes up with a reasonably priced electric version, I'll buy that.
In the meantime, a top off will last me a few years.
2) I like a wing that moves and works as the factory intended
3) I will never, not in this lifetime or the next, pay $1500 for a set of $50 linear actuators.
No disrespect to those who came up with the product. As a machinist, I try to make as many parts as I can to improve the platform but holy crap that's crazy mark-up!
I'll eventually come up with a permanent solution to the wing issue or ,if someone comes up with a reasonably priced electric version, I'll buy that.
In the meantime, a top off will last me a few years.
Last edited by DaveCarrera4S; 04-28-2018 at 09:14 PM.