Ignition switch or battery?
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Ignition switch or battery?
I’ve had an 04 6t cab for a couple months. Love it. About every 10th time I turn the ignition it’s dead. Turn it off, pause, starts right up. Once in a while it cranks like the battery is partially charged. I’ve read a bunch of threads on this site and Rennlist about both - bad switches and that the 6t eats batteries. The battery could be at least 3 years old, maybe more? No record of a new one. And the ignition switch was referenced in the service history, “electrical portion of ignition switch replaced” in 2016, (4K miles since).
Any insight as to which is causing the occasional “dead ignition,” or something else?
Any insight as to which is causing the occasional “dead ignition,” or something else?
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Utah
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These cars require a battery maintainer or tender. An exception would be you are starting it and driving lots of miles every day. There are a lot of things consuming current from the battery when the car is parked and not running. Add this current drain over a couple of days or more and your battery becomes a bit discharged. Constant draining, then running and charging will take a toll on your battery in short order. Something to think about.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Jacksonville, FL
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I believe you're supposed to leave it locked... Something in the alram programming minimizes the drain. It works for me. I also use a tender if the car ends up sitting for more than about 10 days
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Now, as soon as I pull into the garage the tender gets plugged in. Even if I plan to drive it the next day.
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Joined: Dec 2015
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From: Jacksonville, FL
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I've had my car for 3.5 years. Has the same battery it came with. I've never checked the age of it. My battery only goes flat after sitting for more than 2 weeks... I think it has happened to me once. I don't want to jinx it, but they don't ALL eat batteries.
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Agree, never had to put mine on a charger even after 3weeks sitting.
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A point of interest... I replaced my alternator when I first bought the car because of dead battery issues. The next battery lasted only a year. I decided to get another alternator (because the voltmeter never really got above 13) and I found that there were two versions.120 amp and 150 amp. When I went to an auto electrical place to buy the part, I had to insist on the 150 amp. The sales guy pointed to a few "correct" part numbers that indicated 120 amps. The voltmeter now indicates 14 volts unless lights and A/C are on. This is one to watch for.
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