Ok guys...was at sears yesterday and got very confused
I am looking to buy a torque wrench to remove my wheels and got confused which I need...
There was a 3/4 and a 1/2....
Then I need an extention for my deep dish rears, no?
Then I need the actual socket head...what size do I need?? Or are all lugs different...this sounds soo dumb, but I really got confused
Sears also didn't have the jack I was going for so I had to order it (4,000 LBS Alum. jack).
Evan

 

Id just get one of those Crapsman tool sets (I havethe 176 piece) that has all different sizes and stuff....they usually are not much and useful to have in a garage...
If I remember the wheel bolts are 9/16 but not too sure....

 

Ummm - I'd check first. Shouldn't all the sizes be metric rather than SAE to ensure properfit. (True, some SAE sizes will fit metric nuts and bolts, but if the match isn't correct either the socket won't fit or it will be too loose and will round the corners of the lug nuts). Take the lug wrench or socket from your car's tool kit amd match it up with a better quality one at Sears or wherever. You needn't use a torque wrench for removal. Get a breaker bar in case someone over-torqued the lugs and use that to get them off. Some of the catalogue dealers (Performance? Tweeks?) advertise non-marring sockets, which are supposed to protect the lug nuts. I don't know how strong they are, though; maybe someone else here has a recommendation regarding them. OR, find out when the Snap On truck will be at your Dad's dealership and stop by. They'll sell to retail (non-trade/professional) customers, and maybe you can get a discount. They have always had first-rate professional quality tools.

 

Evan,

You need a 19mm socket for the wheel bolts.

Eric

 

With all your "wheel" experience I knew you would know the answer to this one...

 

Thanks guys...
Does it matter which torque wrench I get (the 3/4 or 1/2)??
Evan

 

Evan:

Here is what you need to properly remove your wheels (I beleive you have HREs correct?)...

- Torque wrench
- 1/2 drive 6 inch extension
- 1/2 drive 19mm socket
- tape to wrap around the socket so you do not nick the paint of the wheels

That should be it. All the lugs are the same size (19mm). Just remember to take good care of your tools and they will last you forever. Hope this helps.

 

Perfect, that is exactly what I was looking for
THANKS!!
Evan

 

3/4 v. 1/2 - that is the size of the drive. 1/2 is probably sufficient for most auto applications. With 3/4 drive, you'll have trouble finding smaaler sockets unless you use an adapter - 3/4 (to fit the wrench) to 1/2 to a 1/2 inch drive socket. I'd the 1/2 inch drice, then a 3/8 ininch drive (and sockets) and wait until you need a 3/4 inch drive set. That would be good for diesel trucks or really heavy torquing. Some good earlier advice - get a good mechanics tool set, with both 1/2 and 3/8 drives, but metric sockets. A lot of the larger sets will have both SAE and metric, but you might not need the former. (Yes, in the US anyway the breaker bars and ratchet and torque wrenches define drive size in fractions of an inch even though they take metric size sockets. Go figure.

 

VERY

Actually, I don't have a 19mm socket for a 1/2" driver, but I've been meaning to get one!

 

if you buy a small socket set it will have a bunch of sockets and an extension piece in it. These can be had for very cheap. Then just buy a torque wrench that has the same drive size as the socket set you just bought and you'll be in business. While you're at the store you might want to pick up a pair or two of jack stands. They're not necessary for this but once you have a jack, a good socket set, and jackstands you can do pretty much anything.

-Steve

 

19mm is the same as 3/4 inch (within .3%). You want 1/2 inch drive sockets, not 3/8 or 3/4. Don't get the thick wall impact sockets, there's not enough room for them. Definitely get a break-over bar.

 

Another tip is don't use your torque wrench for
removing the lug nuts, just for tightening. Don't
bang or jerk the torque wrench, such as in using
it to remove lugs, especially when/if the wheel is
up enough to rotate etc. The torque wrench can
be delicate and break if manhandled. Use the 3/4" or 19mm
socket (usually a deep one, about 4" long, and a
six inch extension to keep tools away from the wheel and body.
1/2" drives are fine and common.
I do a lot of wheel swapping on my Mustang, and I have
a DeWalt 12 volt cordless impact wrench 1/2" driver, with
a deep 3/4" socket for loosening and removing lugs, and
for tightening to just over finger-tight. This saves a lot of time.
The impact wrench can only make about 100 ft-lbs max
torque, so it's just enough to remove lugs, and I don't let it
run enough to tighten them much. Then I use the torque
wrench for exactly what it's made for, just tightening to the click.

PS: I watch in horror at tire shops where I see guys using a
175 ft-lb air impact wrench to tighten lugs till they stop
moving, then they mindlessly follow instructions to apply the
torque wrench to get the click. Needless to say the lug never
moved, and they could reset the torque wrench to 175 ft-lbs
and it would make no difference...

 

I don't condone many of the tools Harbor Freight sells but I do buy some stuff there with satisfaction...

HF Alum Jack has not failed me in 2 years
Dual ply latex gloves rock
and their rubber coated socket set is a must have to protect your wheels...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40035



Their alum racing jack is very light weight and low profile. As for the majority of my tools I have craftsman, snap on and MAC all good stuff... BTW you probably want to invest in a good torque wrench I have the 3/4 Snap on click type and love it. I bought that new on ebay saved some money.

Jack:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2672

 

Don't forget your wheel lock too - right TC LOL