Any advice on parts I might be overlooking? I struggled with upgrading to an 098 x 764 pp rather than my usual setup which is just the oem sachs with gt2 unsprung disc which held my 575 crank with never an issue in mostly canyons. but now i'm on open highways, so a ton more 4/5 and 6 wot than i was ever able to do in LA.

but i ain't gonna lie. with gas and tires prices ^^ and the fact that i'm now officially "retired". i don't mind saving the extra grand. last r&r was good for 5 or 6 years and I thought i was "easy" on clutches. but it just started to slip in 5 and 6 WOT.

so - my choice because ( $$ ) is just oem sachs w/ pp and sprung disc "kit" ( $600.00 ) and a new LUK dmfw ( $534.00 ) a new clutch fork kit with seals etc. plus new flywheel/pp bolts and that's it. i just put in a new clutch master and accumulator. i'm hoping i can get by with the current installed slave. no leaks etc. obviously if anything else upon removal is "worn" upon inspection, those will be "late adds".

am forgetting anything? i have two online "shopping carts" saved lol so i can "add" as needed. TIA

 

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...t-right-3.html

all part numbers for stage 2.5 in there including all the other little bits that wear out. if your having it done I see no reason to cheap out as the labor cost / time would be the same. my sprung disk broke rivets and let a spring out into my pressure plate. no sprung hubs for me if I'm doing a clutch.

 

funny how i clicked your link and first thing i read was a post of mine in there from 2+ years ago. thanks for the advice, and although i am leaning toward at least another gt2 unsprung hub, it's by no means necessary at this stage. given where and when i drive when even continuing ownership is at this point a question.

in some ways i feel i'm replacing the clutch now for a future buyer. i'm spending a buck a mile now at bare minimum to drive a bit for fun and nothing is getting cheaper.

I just paid $7.49 a gal at the station near my last beach place on PCH.

i think i can get by just fine with the oem sprung hub set. but of course the 098 disc paired with the 764 pp is the ticket for this cars power level. hell, if money was no object i'd add the 999 motorsport part that john always recommends.

but alas..

 

the guy who had my car wished he had done the 2.5 after he replaced the 1st clutch with a stock unit, me too when I found out it had failed. just seems like a weak link based on info from the forums and my 1 cars worth of data. any time I do something to a car it is definitely hard to try to not want to go overboard so I can feel you on that. I like the 2.5 as it has same effort/ feel as factory ( except higher friction point in pedal travel). don't remember exactly but I think the cost over back to stock was only 400 buck or something for the disk/ PP. worth it to me to not worry about it slipping on down the road.

 

That job is such a pain if I were to do it for someone I wouldn't go by the hour, only a number that would motivate me lol. How long did your last clutch last you? I'm still using a Spec 2+ and it is actually getting better with the slip. Beast of a clutch.

 

@r6vr6 i got at least 60k miles miles since my last swap. i actually thought i'd get more! i just drove to my pals shop to discuss parts and i barely made it up a several mile grade in 3rd. slippage was bad and i thought i wouldnt make it home. can't wait to see the parts and esp the flywheel for hotspots!

again, it it weren't for the money i'd go with kevin UMW for his 2.5 "kit" but it's 1800 for the discs alone.

im getting oem sachs AND a new LUK dmfw for about 1200/1300 all in. this includes pp and FW bolts so the difference in cost for the 764/ and gt2 unsprung disc is a grand at least. theres no reason to believe that if i keep the car? i wont get at LEAST the same usage miles as before. the weird part is how fast from the "first slip" in 5th/6th at 115+ WOT. to now, it'll slip unless you really gently "feather it". i barely made it up this "hill" 3k rpm going about 45 mph! i think i was rocking back and forth in the seat lol..

@brnrdtns like i said. i got 6 years ( 60k miles +/- ) since last swap. so barring any surprises, i'll be fine with the oem. i dont plan on any "abuse" of it.

while its "10" hrs shop labor. we agreed on 12 labor only and this will include some other minor nickle/dime fixes to stuff ( new ww washer pump and nozzles ) etc.

so all in? im near 2500$ parts and labor and thats "internet" pricing on parts and a "bro deal" on labor. not bad and i cant complain.

i'm in the middle of f***in' nowhere lol. thx for the advice gents.

 

If your happy with it that's all that matters. Sounds like your getting a great labor rate.

 

I also have the Spec 2+ with a sprung hub. I had the Spec 3+ with a solid hub, but hated is as it was like an on off switch. Switch to the 2+ and have been happy for 10 plus years now and about 30K miles, many at the track.

Kudo's on you for taking on the job yourself!

 

OP: DROP THE MOTOR. REPEAT...........DROP THE MOTOR.
am i clear? I did this pulling just the trans on my back and it is a ROYAL PITA.
repeat, DROP THE MOTOR.

 

@BMiller33 appreciate the input but it's not necessary ( for me ) and adds hours to the equation. i can see no benefit to dropping the motor since i'm not replacing all manner of "engine out" parts "while i'm there".

for reference i swapped out my last clutch on a rented lift in 8-9 hours with a pal and his helper and i mostly stood around watching, so i have seen firsthand the process. there is absolutely no need to drop the motor for a simple clutch swap. as long as you have a lift, a trans stand and the knowledge and experience. that's all ya need.

so my currently "semi-local" shop owner i've been using for the last 2 years since moving to "the sticks" and with whom i now count among my friends ( he's got a couple extra dirt bikes and I just bring beer ) is agreeing to 10 hours shop labor plus 2 more for a cpl little things i need to do. so 12 hours at 100$ per - all parts supplied by me. should have them today. sachs oem clutch bits from rock auto and pp and FW bolts coming from "paragon" ( best price i could find ).

i did call around ( 4 shops ) and shared the results with my pal here for "comparison" and i found one reputable shop in the major big city ( 1 & 3/4 hrs away ! ) and he would do it for 10 hours but wanted me to pay his shop markup on parts and his hourly was 150 per hr ). another guy wanted 25 hours! for "engine out as he said ( and per your comments ) "it's easier" to get at everything. his quote was 3250 labor alone.

anyone that knows me and my experience with this, my 7th 911. knows how much i cringe when i hear of "book time". i managed to keep this job to about $2500 or darn close including some small stuff needed to keep EVERYTHING on my 182k mile car in tippy top mechanical shape.

so parts in hoping this week and flatbed tow, to the next county over. fingers crossed.

 

best of luck my friend.... keeping the needle bearings in place for the clutch fork through that tiny opening is not for the faint of heart.

 

Coat it with grease and it will stick to the rod. The whole clutch install process is very simple with a few tricks including some duct tape. There is nothing to it actually. A cheap Amazon horoscope camera helps immensely.

 

it is funny you mention that ( since i'm not having to do it ) but the only hangup when we "DIY'd" my clutch was the fork re-insertion. as i remember it, it was three attempts in/out etc. we didn't "tape" anything. but my buddy back in LA has done 100 clutch swaps at least so it all ended at "a days work". i try to choose my friends well.

and howdy john.. i wasn't able to go with your 999 motorsport pp and assorted upgraded parts etc. but i still have your "parts/mod" list from your 3.8 to 4.0 conversion tacked to the wall here from years ago that i'll never get to do lol. cheers.

 

Cheers Mark,
Hope all is well on your end...

 

thought to give an update as my clutch r&r is very exciting.

one never knows what all needs replacing until things are opened up ( unless one replaces every single moving associated part ) and was lucky in that all i needed beyond the discs and flywheel stuff anticipated was a TO bearing ( not unexpected and i figured it was shot as the clutch was becoming harder to depress as it was failing - along with engagement position top of the pedal ) but waited to actually see it. it was toast but lasted at least 125k+ miles as i didn't replace it last time.

couple more bits and a new rms ( in keeping with my long advocated advice to swap it while its staring you in the face with the trans dropped ).

whether or not to replace it has been the subject of some very lively debate here and in another sandbox. my take has always been that it's better to do it, than to find it leaks after buttoning everything up or soon thereafter. others have opine that it's not a good idea unless "necessary".

it's a 60$ rubber o-ring. it gets replaced. should have the car back in my hands - just before gas hits 8 bucks a gallon. woohoo.