HI All, I have an aftermarket Markski tune (love it) and a Numeric shifter, but otherwise stock performance. I have a slipping clutch and am in the marketing for a replacement/upgrade. The intention is to maintain clutch feel as close to stock as I can, while handling the tune and a future aftermarket exhaust., but no other significant power enhancements. Thus far, I am told the Sachs Performance Clutch kit below is a common choice for this need. Additionally, since I purchased the car in 2017, I have had a 'notchy' feel in the 1-2 shift. A member of of one of my 996TT groups suggested he had shifting troubles and it was due to a bent/warped dual mass flywheel, and that he installed a new DMF during the clutch upgrade and the shifting troubles went away. I am looking at the sachs DWF below as a replacement.

Does this all look and sounds reasonable? I want to ensure I have everything before starting the project. Otherwise the car runs well, so I don't plan on replacing/upgrading anything else.

Thanks!!!

 

see post 11 for complete parts list and vendors

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ispreloading=1

 

"notchy" tends to be a relative term given you have a numeric. but that's generally thought of as "
notchy" in a good way. e.g rifle bolt action. so, could be normal.

that said. "notchy" is also one of the first hints that gear oil is aging. during last winter when all "startup" 1/2 shifts are "stiff" i immediately swapped out the gear oil for fresh delvac. no more notchy. my trans is relatively fresh and maintained as well.

as to clutch r&r, i just replaced mine a cpl months ago and while i genuinely wanted to upgrade to a 764 pp and perhaps 098 disc or even just another gt2 unsprung hub - but i went full stock sachs oem to save on costs. i was concerned that i might be buying the next owner a new clutch if i sold the car. but for now? from my cold dead hands, it will be taken from me.

it was instructive to see the parts list posted above from a thread by r6vr6 to see how prices have gone up in the past two years. e.g. then sachs dmfw was then approx 474 U.S. while i just paid 550(+?) or so ( from memory ) from the same supplier noted in that list - rock auto. i went with the Luk DMFW - which is a direct oem replacement. all in i was about a grand on clucth parts but had to order a throwout separately.

i also replaced the hydraulics ( master & accumulator ) and the fluid line to the slave. slave looked and operates fine. but that is generally a "wear item" with a propensity toward failure along with the accumulator.

the good news? at 550 + crank. the new "stock" clutch is holding the tq and hp with no issues. but it's my third clutch on the car at 180k miles.

you can save some dough ( if that matters? and you dont mind sourcing out to save $ ) by sourcing and buying your parts separately, as needed. i.e. i bought flywheel and pp bolts ( 9 each ) from patrick motorsports and other stuff from rock/pelican and az autohaus.

so, sure upgrading is a wise choice particularly if you decide to traverse the slippery slope beyond a simple tune and exhaust. but believe me when i say, the stock sachs components can handle an add'l 75 + hp with no problem.

be kind to your clutch and it will reward you. my last one was good for at least 80k miles of spirited double clutching and up and downshifting lol.

GL with it, whatever you decide.

just remember to plan on some odds and ends as needed once you drop the trans and start looking at the connected parts.

oh, and buy a new rear main seal too. ( 50 bucks? )

 

Thanks for the parts list r6vr6 and for the recommendations 02996ttx50. I'm in the investigation stage so good to see what others have done.

My version of notchy is not the rifle action you speak of. The shift into 2nd isn't smooth, resulting in a 2 step process, drop out of 1st and then pull into 2nd, but matched revs help. Driving in traffic a not pleasant whereas the upper gears are fantastic. I took it to a porsche specialist and he told me it was just how these tranmissions were. I've spoken to many 996tt drivers and it seems this 1-2 issue is very common, whereas a few have noted they have a smooth 1-2. I've done the Numeric upgrade, replaced the trans and engine mounts, replaced the trans oil with the OEM.. There has been some improvement but its not gone. I came across another poster who tells me he had a bent DMF and this was causing shifting issues so I figure I might as well try it to see if it smooths the shifting.

 

while mine was a weird failure of the sprung hub rivets my shift efforts got worse and worse over a year. at the end I could only go 1-2 at low revs. then it finally broke. I broke 2 rivets in the sprung hub. in a couple cars when the oil is old I have a hard time getting into 1stand shifting is harder when cold. if it is hard warm probably not the oil. you might check the shift arm in the transmission where your cables connect. there should be 2 cylindrical masses on there that make the shifting feel smoother. I removed mine because I feel it gives the operator more feel for what is going on during the shift and that I have made it into the next gear. if yours have been removed you and you don't like the feel you might get a set and install and see if that feel is more to your liking.

as far as the clutch part list I assembled and the results. I would say same effort as stock but the friction point moves to the top of the clutch travel. if you live where it is hilly/ mountains it might make for some harder take off from stop lights and stop signs. I remedied that with a clutch stop on the clutch lever. now my clutch is just disengaged when pedal is depressed and as soon as you start to let out it it starts to grab. takes a when to get used to but it's awesome once you do as the shifting process has a great feel with short shifter and clutch travel.

I would like to drive a car with a LWFW but I didn't do one because I was worried about having to rev it too much to take off. maybe unwarranted but was a concern.

I would recommend disabling the clutch pedal switch to save the accumulator and slave if you have enough discipline to not start it in gear.

if you having the trans out might be a good time to do the accumulator and slave rebuild (rennfix sells a oring kit) If you have changed it recently. I can't speak to doing gr2 slave conversion asi have driven one with it but I chose not to do it.

 

plus 1 on the "disabling clutch in to start". i hadn't replaced an accumulator in well over 7 years. prior to that they lasted about 24 months on average.

plus 3 also on a lwfw setup. it's really worth it and if done right. chatter at idle is minimal. these cars perfom so much more quickly with "less mass" and faster revving.

@TexasNewfie i would stick with your plan to go with the slightly upgraded oem sachs setup. you could do a gt2 disc and oem dmfw ( sachs/Luk = same ) or go with the 764 pp for added clamping power.

as to you "1/2" shifting. yes, the long throw is something to "get used to" but i've had a 997 ssk on it since forever. i have zero misshifts ever or imprecise shifts.

i would take that "specialists" comment about our m96g50 boxes with a dubious dash of salt. if you've swapped out oil and eliminated the numeric ( cables? ) being misaligned. then something else is the cause. just my .02.

good luck whatever you decide

but do keep in mind. if you do stay stock, it'll handle 500 crank, easy.

that said. there are reasons many opt for a purely oem setup. i wouldn't say it's "optimal", per se. it is what it is.

stock.