My 04 996 TT has little heat coming out of the vents anymore. I have removed the heater coil but am having trouble getting the flap out to replace the foam on it. I know there is a screw on the bottom that needs to be removed but iii am not certain from what I have been able to find non line exactly which one it is or how to get to it. Any help is appreciated.

 

Not sure if this will be helpful.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/1183277-repairing-the-iblack-foam-coming-out-of-ventn-issue-15.html#post18551508

 

Thanks. Figured out the remaining steps and should wrap up tomorrow. Appreciate the help.

 

my next project r&r the heater core.

concern is replacing all the foam i've been breathing for a year or so. i've picked out the most visible pieces that made it to the cabin vents but my concern is for the remaining chunks fallen into/near the heater core.

while ac/heat still works properly. i have smoke and coolant soiling the cabin and it all ends up on the interior glass of the windscreen and quickly close the vents when necessary so as to avoid breathing propylene glycol mist!

this all sucks ( or blows as it were ).

anyone ever simply r&r the heater core without replacing all the foam?? the difference is hours of "labor".

 

so..the blend flaps simply control the flow of hot/cold air. got it.

I'm just gonna cover the holes in the bend vent flaps with 3M flue temp silver tape - good up to 600 degrees. instead of foam or plugs. any of which would serve to prevent cold air incoming during "heater" mode.

just need to cover the "holes" again although my indy says the heater will work even if the holes are left exposed. not sure how that makes sense but.. whatever. I'm still gonna cover with 3M tape.

 

There are several good YouTube videos on doing this out there, it's the same on Boxsters as 996's and the videos are mostly on boxsters. There seems to be two ways of accessing the flaps, but the only way to access both flaps without pulling the dash out is to go thru the vent behind the radio. You do have to cut the vent feed open, but it seems to seal back up again fine using duct tape. I've got the plug kit sitting on my workbench, it was something like $14 shipped, so was cheap enough for me to buy to see if I want to use it vs the 3M hvac tape. This is on my off season "to do" job list....

 

I finally located a roll of 3M Flue tape( 10$ ) to replace the missing foam. I had considered the "plugs" also but saw enough vid clips where folks used the heat resistant tape with success.

it just seems easier. my hope is that the missing foam is primarily on the blend flap that is accessed at the heater core box.

I am NOT cutting into the interior flap - or even going to mess with the flap accessed behind the double din enclosure.

hopefully confident the tape on the flap at the heater core will be sufficient to eliminate cold air from entering the cabin when done.

my car now does double duty as a snow plow.

tomorrow will tell the tale. heat or minimized heat. no matter what happens, at least I will no longer have foam bits flying - or escaped coolant mist mucking up the interior of my windscreen!

 

So how are you going to access the flap then? You either cut the vent behind the double din to get to both the blend doors, or you cut the head off the top on the heater box, remove the fitting under the dash and pull out one flap.

Personally I'm going in thru the vent. I don't really see the difference, you're cutting something up either way and I'd rather have access to fix both the vent flaps

 

I hear ya on "both" vent flaps and yet I'm *reasonably* confident on just re-taping the holes on the one flap at the heater core box by as you say "cutting" that piece atop the left corner once the heater core is out.

I'm not doing this DIY and I'm stuck with outrageous labor costs out here in the sticks and simply r&r'ing the heater core is 1.5 hours whereas the indy would probably make this whole thing a 4/5 hour day if he went inside the cabin and cut that flap behind the dbl din unit.. of course I'd "prefer" to do it properly and "fully" - but (a) I'm fairly sure this "fix" will be sufficient as its mainly the failing heater core I'm addressing ( though no more foam will be a bonus! ) and he tells me covering the one flap again will sufficiently enable the flap to prevent cold air from entering the cabin while using the "heat".

A/C will work properly either way ( as it still does now ). fingers crossed - and I'll know *more* in a few hours after it's been tackled.

 

success!

as I anticipated. 1.5 hours and some 3M flue tape did the trick. just covered the flap that's accessible at the heater core box. didn't mess with the one behind the dash.

the ride to the shop at 8AM in 25 degrees with all windows OPEN ( was able also to determine that my sunroof is still operational! ) so as to not breathe any more of that propylene glycol coolant puking from all vents even when "closed". don't be fooled by that seemingly innocuous sickly sweet smell of coolant. it is not kosher to eat or drink ha

so imagine the glare of the rising sun nearly blinding me as I struggled with trying to smear away enough "coolant mist" which is greasy on the inner windscreen to attempt a clear(er) view. I genuinely thought I might get in an accident ( with a semi blasting past me at 80+ mph! ) for lack of vision and frostbite. Oh, and not one. two pair of gloves!

this: was a 100 mile ride from hell. worth it now though...

heater core $118.00 ( 145 at pelican. 118 at azautohaus )
gasket 15$
cabin filter 10$
labor 250 ish

thimble full of coolant to burp it, and pentosin ( to replace a thimble full the recent clutch swap ) and I'm good to go. unless I catch pneumonia from the AM drive.