PSM/ABS/Engine failure after sitting for a month?
PSM/ABS/Engine failure after sitting for a month?
So I haven't driven the TT in about a month and figured it was time to take it for a spin. Ran a few errands and then took the back roads home so I could get on it a bit. About half way home, with the pedal to the floor in 2nd, the PSM/ABS lights start going crazy and the next thing I know I have both the PSM Failure and ABS Failure staring me in the face.
Turned the car off for a minute to see if it would go away, but it didn't - in fact a mile later I then got the Engine warning message too.
Car seems fine and a quick visual inspection doesn't reveal anything. After letting it sit in my driveway for a few hours I took a quick spin around the block to see if anything had changed, but I still have all the warning lights and the car still seems fine.
I've never seen any of these warnings before, but maybe it has something to do with sitting for awhile? Either that or it's a coincidence and all of a sudden I have a bad sensor somewhere or something? Is it cool to drive the 25 miles to the shop, or should I call for a flatbed at this point? Or is there an easy way to reset the lights and see if they come back?
Car is a Stage 4 ...
Turned the car off for a minute to see if it would go away, but it didn't - in fact a mile later I then got the Engine warning message too.
Car seems fine and a quick visual inspection doesn't reveal anything. After letting it sit in my driveway for a few hours I took a quick spin around the block to see if anything had changed, but I still have all the warning lights and the car still seems fine.
I've never seen any of these warnings before, but maybe it has something to do with sitting for awhile? Either that or it's a coincidence and all of a sudden I have a bad sensor somewhere or something? Is it cool to drive the 25 miles to the shop, or should I call for a flatbed at this point? Or is there an easy way to reset the lights and see if they come back?
Car is a Stage 4 ...
Disconnect the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes. Have your radio code handy.
Also is the car boosting the same? I had the same symptoms from a cracked hose about the width of a pencil from the intake plenum. It was a small L shaped hose on the right side of the plenum. Once that was changed all was well...until I needed some upgraded plugs after I chipped the car. Anyway, best of luck, and I think you are ok to drive the car.
Also is the car boosting the same? I had the same symptoms from a cracked hose about the width of a pencil from the intake plenum. It was a small L shaped hose on the right side of the plenum. Once that was changed all was well...until I needed some upgraded plugs after I chipped the car. Anyway, best of luck, and I think you are ok to drive the car.
Also, if the car has been sitting for a while, you may want to check your tire pressures. Maybe one is low and triggered the warning lights. Just disconnect the battery and see if that resets it.
I'm running the K&N intake from evo. I've put 4-5k miles on it and never a problem until today. I just realized I could use google to search this site so I did and I read through a bunch of the MAF related posts. Ok so most likely it's the oil from the K&N causing the problem and I either need to clean the MAF or get a new one. Now just a few questions ...
1. Will the codes/warnings disappear after I clean the MAF or do I need to buy one of those OBDII tools from Autozone?
2. Has Evo or anyone else come out with an oil-less filter for the V flow?
3. If not, would I lose much by switching back to the stock airbox with my B&M filter? I'm not the type that likes to hassle with this stuff, I barely have time to drive the car as it is. On the other hand I only put a few 1000 miles a year on the car so maybe I should just change the MAF once a year as preventative maintenance LOL
4. Just out of curiosity, why does a MAF problem throw codes for PSM/ABS?
Thanks!
1. Will the codes/warnings disappear after I clean the MAF or do I need to buy one of those OBDII tools from Autozone?
2. Has Evo or anyone else come out with an oil-less filter for the V flow?
3. If not, would I lose much by switching back to the stock airbox with my B&M filter? I'm not the type that likes to hassle with this stuff, I barely have time to drive the car as it is. On the other hand I only put a few 1000 miles a year on the car so maybe I should just change the MAF once a year as preventative maintenance LOL
4. Just out of curiosity, why does a MAF problem throw codes for PSM/ABS?
Thanks!
Last edited by limitup; Apr 9, 2006 at 01:43 AM.
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I had the K & N filter but decided to switch back to the stock air filtewr just to be on the safe side and i didnt notice any difference at all in performance and i too am running the stage 4.
If you use the stock air filter you know the maf wont fail due to oil contamination.
When the maf fails you do get the psm/abs lights come on.
If you use the stock air filter you know the maf wont fail due to oil contamination.
When the maf fails you do get the psm/abs lights come on.
PSM/ABS came on with my MAF blowing. Was running the oiled Evo intake at the time. Now with Oil less Evo filter, and so far with 2500 miles, MAF holding up fine.
I also did not want the hassles of blowing MAF due to the Evo intake repeatedly, but the power/and crisp response from the intake, I could not resist and reinstalled mine. (I am stage 1.5)- With your stage 4, the intake should gaind at least 20-25HP according to Todd/Stephen.
Good Luck.
I also did not want the hassles of blowing MAF due to the Evo intake repeatedly, but the power/and crisp response from the intake, I could not resist and reinstalled mine. (I am stage 1.5)- With your stage 4, the intake should gaind at least 20-25HP according to Todd/Stephen.
Good Luck.
1. you will need to clear the codes...either with an OBD2 tool or by disconnecting the battery
2. EVO has a dry filter available
3. I have about 4K on mine with no problems
4. The codes are actually 1128 & 1130...the car "reacts" by going into limp mode...PSM/ABS lights up and then later a CEL.
check here for more info.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...4&hl=MAF+codes
2. EVO has a dry filter available
3. I have about 4K on mine with no problems
4. The codes are actually 1128 & 1130...the car "reacts" by going into limp mode...PSM/ABS lights up and then later a CEL.
check here for more info.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...4&hl=MAF+codes
have a cut off switch on mine tried to start it (forgot the cut off switch was on) a few times wheen i got smart ind turned the cut off switch off,,,started the car every failur light was on looked like christmas on my dash. unhooked the batt and all was fine.
There is an alternative filter that can be used. Drop me a call on Monday.
In the meantime, what is the best cleaner to use on the MAF besides this Kester AP20 stuff? I'll go ahead and order some for future use but I wanted to try to clean the MAF today. I read in some previous posts NOT to use regular circuit board cleaners that they sell at Radio Shack, etc. - would I just use a residue-free brake cleaner or something?
Originally Posted by limitup
A MAF issue will trigger PSM/ABS failures??
I did an experiment on my own car: I had a good running MAF. I disconnected the MAF and started my car...
The result: ABS/PSM flashed on.
If the ABS/PSM light is coming on, chances are your MAF is beyond cleaning at that point. It sounds as if it is on its way out.




