304 Stainless steel or 14 AWG?
304 Stainless steel or 14 AWG?
I have a quick question for you guys. I am looking to buy a new exhaust for my 911 C4. headers, 100 cell cats and mufflers from zero tek. i have heard good things from guys on here. any one have them and have any more comments that might help me with my purchase? also, z tek says they are made of 14 AWG stainless steel. is this good or bad. they say its the highest quality. is 14 awg different from 304 stainless steel? can someone comment of the difference, are they the same? is one better than the other? thanks.
also, does anyone know of good wheels in the 2500-3200 range for all 4? something light with a decent sized lip also, 3.5 inch in back and 2.5 in front.
also, does anyone know of good wheels in the 2500-3200 range for all 4? something light with a decent sized lip also, 3.5 inch in back and 2.5 in front.
The term 14 AWG is in reference to the material thickness which would be 14 guage. The material type should be Type 304 or 316 stainless steel. Also you should make sure the studs (if applicable) and flanges are of stainless steel construction as well.
Originally Posted by CamNeelyphile
The term 14 AWG is in reference to the material thickness which would be 14 guage. The material type should be Type 304 or 316 stainless steel. Also you should make sure the studs (if applicable) and flanges are of stainless steel construction as well.
http://www.zerotek.net/ztcopo996st3.html
The materials look fine and it sounds great.
In looking at the pictures I think the manufacturer is cheap and lazy. I know there are those that would differ but in my opinion the weld zones need to be passivated to remove the heat marks and preserve the quality of whatever alloy it is. Some people like the blue heat marks, not me. It the first place that corrodes...... guaranteed.
The system could have been made with 16 guage material but not a lot of guys can weld it without making a mess of the thinner material. The weight savings between guages is approximately half a pound per square foot of material.
In looking at the pictures I think the manufacturer is cheap and lazy. I know there are those that would differ but in my opinion the weld zones need to be passivated to remove the heat marks and preserve the quality of whatever alloy it is. Some people like the blue heat marks, not me. It the first place that corrodes...... guaranteed.
The system could have been made with 16 guage material but not a lot of guys can weld it without making a mess of the thinner material. The weight savings between guages is approximately half a pound per square foot of material.
Originally Posted by CamNeelyphile
The materials look fine and it sounds great.
In looking at the pictures I think the manufacturer is cheap and lazy. I know there are those that would differ but in my opinion the weld zones need to be passivated to remove the heat marks and preserve the quality of whatever alloy it is. Some people like the blue heat marks, not me. It the first place that corrodes...... guaranteed.
The system could have been made with 16 guage material but not a lot of guys can weld it without making a mess of the thinner material. The weight savings between guages is approximately half a pound per square foot of material.
In looking at the pictures I think the manufacturer is cheap and lazy. I know there are those that would differ but in my opinion the weld zones need to be passivated to remove the heat marks and preserve the quality of whatever alloy it is. Some people like the blue heat marks, not me. It the first place that corrodes...... guaranteed.
The system could have been made with 16 guage material but not a lot of guys can weld it without making a mess of the thinner material. The weight savings between guages is approximately half a pound per square foot of material.
If you look at the heat affected zone around each weld it is discoloured, ranging from a gold colour on the weld crown to a blue in the parent material being the stainless steel tube. This is actually carbide precipitation but we don't need to get into that...
When you passivate a weld there is an application of a "pickling" paste which penetrates the heat affected zone and when wiped or brushed off the silver stainless steel finish is restored. This process renders the zone less likely to corrode as a result of burning the qualities if you will, out of the stainless steel in the welding process. Complicated I know, but that's my case I guess. I do know this stuff.
When you passivate a weld there is an application of a "pickling" paste which penetrates the heat affected zone and when wiped or brushed off the silver stainless steel finish is restored. This process renders the zone less likely to corrode as a result of burning the qualities if you will, out of the stainless steel in the welding process. Complicated I know, but that's my case I guess. I do know this stuff.
Originally Posted by CamNeelyphile
If you look at the heat affected zone around each weld it is discoloured, ranging from a gold colour on the weld crown to a blue in the parent material being the stainless steel tube. This is actually carbide precipitation but we don't need to get into that...
When you passivate a weld there is an application of a "pickling" paste which penetrates the heat affected zone and when wiped or brushed off the silver stainless steel finish is restored. This process renders the zone less likely to corrode as a result of burning the qualities if you will, out of the stainless steel in the welding process. Complicated I know, but that's my case I guess. I do know this stuff.
When you passivate a weld there is an application of a "pickling" paste which penetrates the heat affected zone and when wiped or brushed off the silver stainless steel finish is restored. This process renders the zone less likely to corrode as a result of burning the qualities if you will, out of the stainless steel in the welding process. Complicated I know, but that's my case I guess. I do know this stuff.
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Originally Posted by PorscheC4
so would you say this exhaust system is quality or worth buying or not?
CamNeelyphile, feel free to correct me if I'm misrepresenting your opinion.
Buy it man. It's a nice system. The passivation is a workmanship issue (for me) and your system will not fall apart the way it is. And when you get the parts, take them to a metal fabricator and get them to clean and passivate the weld zones
..... or don't drive your car in conditions where road salt is used.
Good shopping brother, post pictures when you're done. What kind of horsepower are you pumping out?
..... or don't drive your car in conditions where road salt is used.Good shopping brother, post pictures when you're done. What kind of horsepower are you pumping out?
Originally Posted by PMac
I'm pretty sure he's advising against it without wanting to come out and say it. His criticism appears to center on the longevity of the piece. So, it might sound great, but it may fall apart sooner than a better-welded piece.
CamNeelyphile, feel free to correct me if I'm misrepresenting your opinion.
CamNeelyphile, feel free to correct me if I'm misrepresenting your opinion.

I currently have a Fabspeed Quiet Sport on a Stage 3 car. If something else was to captivate me I would change it. The Kreissig with the ability to run through 100 cell cats or in straight pipe mode interests me but holy crap, they're expensive!!
Originally Posted by CamNeelyphile
I currently have a Fabspeed Quiet Sport on a Stage 3 car. If something else was to captivate me I would change it. The Kreissig with the ability to run through 100 cell cats or in straight pipe mode interests me but holy crap, they're expensive!!
PC4,
Go for the mods, my only caution would be go w/ the 200 cel cats if you have a choice. 100 cel may set off your "check engine light". Pain in the butt vs. small diff in HP between 200 / 100 cel cats.
Go for the mods, my only caution would be go w/ the 200 cel cats if you have a choice. 100 cel may set off your "check engine light". Pain in the butt vs. small diff in HP between 200 / 100 cel cats.
Originally Posted by D-UberCars
PC4,
Go for the mods, my only caution would be go w/ the 200 cel cats if you have a choice. 100 cel may set off your "check engine light". Pain in the butt vs. small diff in HP between 200 / 100 cel cats.
Go for the mods, my only caution would be go w/ the 200 cel cats if you have a choice. 100 cel may set off your "check engine light". Pain in the butt vs. small diff in HP between 200 / 100 cel cats.
does anyone have any idea how much installation of H&R sport springs will cost to just lower the car?
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