The stage II turbochargers (k24 hybrid) from UMW are $5895. If you want the zero clearance option, it's an extra $1200.

Price includes programming.

There is a post from kevin at UMW on rennlist.com about his packages/pricing.

 

I think UMW and Protomotive are about the same($)... just different approaches in tuning and power delivery... Proto uses k24s and turns them into what we call k24/18s and Kevin at UMW uses k16 housings and does his own magic... I had UMW ZC stage 5s.. I also had K24 RACE FVD turbos...
Proto turbo is bigger thus more lag and the UMW is obviously smaller.
The proto set up gives u the option of upgrading to the 700 hp package without having to buy another set of turbos...
The would ask myself one question.... "how will I be driving the car"...
If ur a track guy then go with the no lag turbo... if u want top end highway 60 to 150 blasts the Proto k24/18g probably has an advantage. Either way you cant go wrong.
Evoms/IA offers k16/24 turbos as well...

markski

 

I am twisting between UMW and Protomotive.

Seems like UMW is doing $8000,- for a 512 WHP set-up and Protomotive has around 540 WHP set-up for $8000,- also.

Does anybody know if the UMW has LESS lag than the Protomotive set-up. From what i understand is the UMW set-up with Zero Clearance

 

Whan i was writing down my question you already posted the answer

Thank you Marski

 

If you go with the zero clearance option, you're getting your boost 300-500rpms earlier. So stoplight to stoplight you're going to be quicker. But as Markski said the k24 based Proto turbos will most likely have power longer in the powerband.

It all depends how you drive. Both tuners have great reputations. If you're going to do Autobahn highway blasts up to 180mph, you might want to go with the larger based turbos. If you're driving around town doing 1st and 2nd gear runs, you might like the quicker spooling option.

 

Yes it does... but did you ever hear anyone complaing that the GT2 is laggy??? NEVER.
Proto revv limiter is 7500 rpms... so u pull beyond where others shift... Proto uses a greddy boost controller which u can get on ur own($300). after that u need a 5 bar FPR ($80) and I recommend a free flowing exhaust, DVs, BMC filter.
UMW has some neat programming features as well... well thought out package.
markski

 

I will mostly be doing around town, light to light blasts, with the occasional highway blast. No real track time.....at least as of yet!

 

Markski, what does the boost controller, and the FPR actually do? Why do some tuners use them and some don't?

 

Maxwell,

FPR is a fuel pressure regulator.. we have a stock 3.8 bar and u usually upgrade to the 5 bar on the 570 to 640 hp cars... thats where ur maxing out ur stock fuel system.
Usually this is provided with the tuning kit.

The Boost controller is also known as EBC... did u ever see Supras, Evo 8s, Subabrus running boost cotrollers? its the same idea. 99 % of the P car tuners DO NOT use EBCs.. and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that... what happens is that u usually run a somewhat static boost level ( meaning 1.2 bars lets say)... it does not change nor can you changed it. Thus the Wastegates are controlled by the P car N75 check valve... its actually a EBC.

With a EBC you unhooke the Stock N75 and hook up the after market EBC which allows you to controll the Wastegates... allowing for controllable boost( Power). So the theory is that a supra, evo8, etc or a P car in this case is TUNED accordingly to different boost settings. Now you run lower boost on pump gas and higher boost on better fuel. This is nothing new.
I, for example run .8 bars with the WG off on pump gas. at 1.1 bars I run 100 octane. at 103 and above I run 1.5 bars...
The car was tuned for these specific boost levels.
I also have an EVO 8 and it is tuned the same way.

There has been alot of write up on this... some agree some disagree.. I had all of the above and I love my set up.
markski

 

First of all, decide if you are going to be happy with 600 crank HP and go from there. If you are satisfied with that number I feel Kevin's STG2 ZC is the most potent setup in that power range. If you are going to go for 700 hp now or later it changes the whole discussion. I know my setup posted the fastest 16/24 (as far as I know)trap of 128.2mph with a 3800 lb running weight. It also broke into the high 7's in the 60-130 as well. Unfortunately, there are no hard numbers for the 18/24G setup at this 600 power level. No one has posted any 60-130 numbers and the only 1/4 mile time that I know of was a 124-125 and 12.00 with a tippy. If no lag is the defining criteria, then a 18/24 isnt the solution. Many have claimed they are superior up top, but from the dyno sheets posted I would have to disagree. I have done several comparison spreadsheets that are floating around here that illustrate the differences in 100rpm increments with the stg2 ZC and the 18G/24... Keep in mind comparing dyno sheets are only a guide and hardly definitive, heck even trap speeds arent the same with different altitudes, temps, etc...I think there is enough info on this site to make an informed decision. I would just split the case though and drop in a GT3RS crank and be done with it, but hey, thats just me ...Kevin

 

Not wanting to cause a problem, but Kevin's 16/24 do not use a K16 housing.

 

Bill...you may want to call the boss on that one. Heavily massaged and ported, but they are K16 housings. Kevin

 

Im pretty sure its a K16 as well. thats why he needs ur stock ones...

 

My ultimate goal is maximum performance on the street but I want to maintain daily drivability and most importantly reliability. I just want to be able to get in the car, turn the key and drive. And, with that, get the most horsepower and fun for my dollar.

 

16/24's is where it's at for me!