Hey guys, almost time to take the beast out!.. extremely syked right now!.. I purchased the EVO headers during the winter break and have not installed them yet.. is this an easy install?.. do i need to change the gaskets?.. any information would be greatly appreciated!

ryan

 

Just went through this (again) this past weekend. It is VERY easy to swap out the exhaust headers. You will need new gaskets at the cylinder head and the turbo. I would also get 6 new locking nuts (3 per side) for the studs at the turbo's. The headers can be swapped without taking anything else apart. If you haven't used anti-sieze on the threads, you may want to buy new studs (just in case). I use anti-sieze on all the threads. Remember to reduce torque by approx. 20% if using anti-sieze.

 

awesome!.. thanks for the help and quick response L Gancho!

ryan

 

No problem... please read my post again, as I just edited it.

 

spray the bolts down with liquid wrench first... just to avoid any nastyness on the way out. It's very easy to do as l gancho says.

 

Just about to do a Header swap and the posted info is very helpful. Do you know the Torque Wrench settings by any chance?

C.

 

If you just swapped out the headers for some cleaned up ones, what would just that alone add in actual crank horse power for a ttX50?

By the way I've seen the acutual factory headers, and great pics posted here. Was appalled by the amount of moulding flash that was left in the airflow path!

I cannot believe that Porsche AG would allow crap like that to leave their factory. Is it because it is within their manufacturing tolerances? Or, as usual, their greed for their profit margin.

Wasn't that kind of flash the very first thing the hotrodders used to clean up over 50 years ago?
Anyway, your info on the incremental benefit this would give us would be appreciated. Thx

 

I'm running the stock headers on my car. They seem to work okay.

 

you can't be serious. at your power level?!

 

Scott,

You are joking right?? Didnt Todd make you custom headers??

mK

 

you NEED to grind welds. makes mad power.

 

It's easy, but use Liquidwrech or something similar (I like Rustoff) first. Torque the nuts or you could end up with a really big problem.

 

Position the nine fastening screws on the cylinder head by hand and tighten in two stages.

First stage to 25 Nm (18 ftlb.).
Second stage to 33 Nm (24 ftlb.).
Tighten in accordance with the sequence shown.

 

Nope. We used my stock headers. They had to be cut to allow installation of my turbos in their new location, though. I'm using the stockers for the next go round as well.

 

Many Thanks phthom.

C.