The dealer wanted $750 to replace them. The CPO doesn't cover it... So I told them to give me the car back (so I could take it to my indie mech to fix).

Anyhow, I searched the forum and didn't find anything on these. Any info on what these do and If I need to fix this right away, would be great!!

Thanks fellas.

 

Are they talking about the diverter valves? They are a 39.00 part each from the factory!

 

Are they hard to put on? I have a friend who works on his own Subie. Does a nice job. Or should I use my independant mech?

 

No not really. I would invest in cable pliers but other than that it is not hard. Maybe a 2.5 hour job for a first timer. I can do them in 45 minutes

 

OK DONE! Found the instructions and my friend is gonna do it for a steak dinner.

Should I buy them OEM?

 

I would buy the Forged ones that IA, EVO, as well as other sponsors sell. Will not have to worry about it again.

 

Hell no don't do the OEM. Call me in the morning and I will get you set up.

 

Stick with an oem style valve for a mildly tuned car. Swing by your local vw or audi dealer and pick up a set of these 06A-145-710-N. We use these on ~450-500 hp audi's on a daily basis.

Most after market DV's require some kind of service....most commonly greasing the moving internal parts. At relatively low boost levels the 710n valves will hold up for many many miles.

 

I must disagree...the stock DVs are about one of the cheapest components I have ever seen...it does not take much to blow them apart and if they blow apart the remains go into the engine Get the EVO or Forge DVs...and be done with it.

 

I have seen more stuck open forged DV's due to heat and lack of lubrication then failed 710n style oem DV's.

On a daily basis we use the oem styel 710n dv's with boost levels exceeding 20-22 psi.

To each his own, all I am saying is from the experience of tuning literally 100's of cars with uprated oem style dv's installed....I wouldnt install anything else.

 

We don't use Forge.


Keep in mind that the stck style rubber diverter will fail at some point. The reason we do not use them is because the next thing down for the rubber to go through is the turbo. I have pulled turbos off cars with 2K miles and FOD because of this. It will eventually happen, the question is when and is it worth the expense of a turbo verses the cost of a billet valve.

 

Ummm...I wonder if anyone with a modded TT has stock DVs? I would guess 90% of modded TT's on this board have aftermarket DVs...we must all be stupid

 

I meant billet in my post. I got mine from Stephen at Imagine Auto.

 

I personally have never seen DV's fail to the point were shardes of the rubber, make their way into the intake track. Interesting.

I have however seen aftermarket valve seize closed do to lack of lubrication, causing compressor surge and earily turbo failure.

I dont think any perfect design exists. At the end of the day its all personal perference.

 

Just looking for comments. Has anyone used or heard of using Blow Off Valves? A single valve replaces the two DVs as I understand it. "Blow Off Valve has an upgrade spring and piston design to handle up to 50psi of boost. The valve has an adjustable top to help set the stiffness of the spring depending on your vehicle setup. You can set it up as a full recirculation like a stock valve, full 100% atmospheric for high horsepower race cars, or even 50/50 for street cars wanting that Blow Off Valve sound."

Most of this comes from their advertisement.....any experience?