trying to do this so i can replace the drain tubes which are all crapped up, resulting in my rear footwells/carpet flooding whenever it rains....

anyone know the trick on the last step once you have all the screws/clips out?

Instructions in the workshop manual say....

"Pull the side panel lining -1- inwards until the clip -8- disengages. Subsequently lift the trim at the bottom and remove towards the front"

It seems to be completely solid in there, not just held by a clip. I can't shift it by pulling, I neeed to start using some sort of crowbar....

- thanks, Alan

 

It has been so long since I did this that I can't remember what the "last" step was. However, as I recall, removing the speakers and some obvious screws that were holding the panel in place (all were exposed), I just tugged on it a little and it came off. Don't use too much force - more like releasing clips - a short tug. And, maybe try pulling up from the bottom. It should be very straight forward.

Oh, and one other thing - the side carpet and the leather (or vinyl) is all one piece.

 

thanks, your final piece of info was key. i had thought those were two separate parts so was trying to pull out just half of it. once i knew they were joined it came out easily!

and inside, the plastic drain tube on the driver side was cracked, so water just poured thru that into the seatbelt, electrics and carpet (it's a very a lame design if you ask me).

i recall seeing a great site that had nice exploded diagrams (like the workshop manuals) but with part numbers for each piece, but i cant find it now. anyone have a handy link?

cheers, alan

 

You're welcome. I think I saw that site too but it's been too long. Lastly, I replaced my black flex drain pipe with clear vinyl hose with a hard plastic elbow used for gardening joined with a ring hose clamp. then I wrapped it in foil in case of heat. This has worked great and the water flows perfectly. And there is no chance it coming undone or breaking since the vinyl hose is so much thicker and the hose clamp really seals it up tightly. Good luck.

 

thanks again. after failing to find the part number i went the DIY route too. and when i was in there, i found that the big problem wasn't the crack in those hoses, but the hoses that lead from the reservoir down to the wheel well were clogged with crap - so the reservoir just filled up and overflowed into all the electronics down below. so i took off the rear wheels, the wheel-well lining and cleaned them out. now i am good to go. (right as we start spring so it'll probably not rain for another 6 months....)

i have to say though, what a horrible design. it's as if they did it on purpose placing all those wiring harnesses right underneath an open topped reservoir.

 

Thank you. I had the same problem - wet floors on the driver's side. Unfortunately the flooding shorted out the lock control box under the driver's seat.

This past weekend, using your guidance, I removed the side panel and replaced the hose (vinyl hose from Home Depot). After replacing the hose and blowing out the drain hole with air, it still did not drain well. Based upon your suggestion, I removed the rear wheel liner and sure enough the drain was plugged. I washed it out and the drain is now working like a charm.

Now i need to replace the lock control box!

Jim

 

that reminds me that i should probably check mine again as it's just started to rain here in norcal. it spends most of it's time outside so is likely full of pine needles and pollen.

 

Has anyone created a tutorial with pics? I'll check Youtube for something.

 

JonnyQuest,


If I were to clean the drains again, I would do it in reverse order. Clean the drain exit first. The drain exit turned out to be the most clogged part of the drainage system on my car.

You access the drain exit by removing the rear wheel, removing the wheel well cover. It is located in the front facing wall of the wheel well. The drain exit should have a flexible plastic cover the size of a quarter or 1/4 dollar. If you can clean the drain side and then test the water flow, you may not need to do the rest.

The rest of the story for me was:
- I cleaned the drainage system
- I replaced the immobilizer
- Towed the car to the dealer to have the codes reset.
- The bar codes from keys did not work in the new immobilizer - but they were able to reprogram it so the "pills" inside the keys work - remote controls don't work. Dealer charged about $200.
- Car worked fine, drove fine.
- The next day I drove the car to my Mother's house - 5 miles from my home. When I arrived coolant was streaming from the front of the car. So the car has been sitting at my mom's house for two weeks. I expect it is easier a hose or a radiator. I had the radiator fan on the leaking side (driver's side) replaced two months ago. I hope to determine the cause of the leak this weekend.

Good luck.


Cab4