Hey all,

I'll keep this simple as I have done some research on this forum as well as a few others and found some interesting information. However, no real information on why this has happened.

It seems to be pretty common around the 50-60K mark, probably since the 60k service is when the belt change is called for, but I had the aft most 2 ribs come off of the serpentine belt. I have the new belt in my garage currently, as I had noticed some fraying when I did the intake install on Monday. I am going to change the belt tonight after work, very simple and only removal of the intake is necessary as well as a 24mm socket for the tensioner. I am going to do a full feature writeup during the change btw so anyone else needing to do this will have detailed instructions as well.

BUT ANYWAY, my question was, when the second rib came off the belt (apparently today on the way to work) it threw a check engine code. Everything else is fine, coolant level, oil level, etc. But WHY would it throw a code if the belt is still on and turning with the engine running. I suspect maybe it slipped due to less contact surface and that registers something with the ECU?

PART 2 of my question is, when I do the belt service tonight and it is complete, can the CEL be reset without a pricey trip to the stealership? I know in my wife's Mini we just disconnect the battery and let it sit for a bit and all codes go away (such as I did with her intake install).

Thanks for your time, hopefully there are some answers out there, from someone a little more experienced with this platform than myself.

Jonathan

 

My gut concurs with yours regarding the cause of the CEL--belt slippage causing something that triggered the CEL. To be sure you'll need to pull the codes with a code reader; you may be able to get this done for free at a local auto parts place (Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.).

As for clearing the CEL, the "disconnect the battery" trick works fine. Make sure you have your radio unlock code before you do this. Also, after reconnecting the battery you will need to "re-teach" the car a few things like the one-touch window opening/closing. Your owner's manual has all the necessary instructions for this.

Good luck.

 

Thank you so much for that bit of info, I didn't know about the "reteaching" the windows. That's very informative. I have an aftermarket head unit, so I should have no reason to need the code correct? The stocker is safely tucked away in my spare car parts cabinet with all paperwork if I do though.

 

You shouldn't need a radio code for your aftermarket head unit--most don't--but the owner's manual for it will tell you for sure.

About the only tricky part of replacing the serpentine belt is getting the path exactly right--IIRC it goes under/over about 8 pulleys. Be sure to have a picture handy (take it yourself before removing the old belt, or find one on the 'net).

 

Exactly my thought. As an aircraft mechanic I am very careful to take pics, do drawings and label and parts bag everything. Even at home all my tools have shadows or foam cutouts that only fit that specific tool. At first I thought it was a bit OCD, but after a bit it became second nature and it sure does save a lot of pain when it comes to reassembly and accounting for everything. I recommend it to anyone with any type of extensive tool collection.

 

No idea why it lit the CEL but at a minimum you should go to Autozone after changing the belt to see what the code is & they can turn off the CEL. That way your DME won't have to relearn & you can discover actual problem & possibly more, make sure you are ready to write down trouble code # s.

I used to work on the flight line in Air National Guard.

 

I highly recommend getting your own code reader if you plan to keep the car long-term. Check Actron.

 

Was just looking into that FLY! Thanks for the recommendation.
Fellas, the DIY is up, feel free to give me your feedback on it!
Jon

 

Did you get those codes read? what was the outcome, sorry haven't looked at the DIY yet.

 

It was a low voltage from the alternator code. Exactly as we had suspected, belt slipping under acceleration caused it to read low for a split second and throw a code. Went ahead and reset it myself.

 

Cool thanks glad you got it sorted.

 

These cars are amazing...detecting a failing belt!