hopefully someone can help with this.

I disconnected the battery to charge it as the car sat for a while and it was a little low. car was running fine a the time. nothing crazy just a slow trickle charge over night.

hooked the battery back up in the morning, car starts fine, but wont idle and dies after a couple seconds. if i restart it, same thing. If i start it and try and give it any throttle, it wont rev and dies.

is there something simple here I am missing? i purposely disconnected the battery to protect the cars electronics from possible voltage spike of a charger.

car is undriveable, and unless there is something simple i am missing will have to be towed to a shop. thanks

 

my guess battery is toast..u can get it checked or in my case I just go get a new walmart H7 and it works every time.

 

toasted battery? engine CRANKS.....lights and electrical systems work..... engine even starts and voltage registers 14 on the dash gauge......

it wasnt "dead" just sat for a while and was a little low...so i trickle charged it.

in the end....maybe the battery does need replacement....just cant see how that currently, with a good charge on it...car will start but die at idle. has to be something else going on.

 

I read somewhere about a throttle body initialization procedure. Try turning the ignition on but do not start, hold the throttle all the way down and count to ten, turn off and try to start normal. Worth a try.

 

thanks for the help.....but this didnt fix it. thought maybe a bad fuel pump r relay...bypassed the relay to manually run the pump and it seems fine.

at a loss from here. either a trip to an indy or possibly purchase SW to get into the computer and see what is going on. still dont have a CEL.

flaky crank sensor a possibility? somewhere i read a chip is embedded in they key and if the computer doesnt read it then it will do this. didnt think my 99 had that.

nice A10 avatar BTW.

thanks

 

The e-gas calibration procedure is to with your foot off the gas pedal turn the ignition key to on but do *not* start or even crank the engine. Leave the key on for 60 seconds. Turn the key off and leave it off for at least 10 seconds. Done.

You should try this procedure as it is about the easiest thing you can do and it might help.

If not then disconnect the battery again and press on the brake pedal to remove any residual power from the car's electrical system. Be sure you turn off the ignition and remove the key before you disconnect the battery.

Reconnect the battery.

If you do this battery disconnect thing you should do the e-gas calibration procedure again.

 

thanks but this didnt resolve it.

one thing i did notice, the check oil level LED indicator was moving up and down with the ignition on engine off. has good oil pressure on the gauge when running 4-5bar at idle. oil level checked and good.

 

Then with odd electrical gremlins that came about after you removed the battery and charged it and then installed it you have to consider some kind of battery cabling problem. Those battery cables are old and perhaps moving them about caused some breaks in the wiring?

If you are careful you can feel the cabling and if any section is warm (or hot so be careful!) this can be a sign of increased resistance which can be due to breaks in the strands.

I do not know the history of the car but while the connections at the battery can be good the connections as the other end of the battery cables can be real bad, usually due to exposure to the elements.

Last but not least and as at least one other poster opined the battery is bad.

 

Battery check is not done by voltage only. A battery can have 13 volts and not be able to start a car at all. The connections can be marginal... the ground may be poor. But a better battery test is with a spare older style headlight or fog light.. something that actually draws a large load. Attach the light for twenty or thirty seconds and insure a bright positive light.. not perfect, but a much better test than just voltage. Even an old style large brake light on two 18 inch pieces of wire can be useful as the brightness helps determine actual power and charge present.

 

hopefully he figured it out 6 years ago, but good suggestion?

 

Hello,
turkish citizenship
My assumption is that the battery is dead...you may get it examined or, in my case, just go to Walmart and buy a new H7, which works perfectly every time.