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Engine No Start/No Crank

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Old 10-25-2015, 10:00 PM
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Arrow Engine No Start/No Crank

Hi guys!

I'm currently having issues starting my car. I unlocked my car with the key fob. When I open the door, the normal dashboard lights displaying mileage, time, etc. are on. When I insert the key into the ignition and turn the key to the ON position, all the lights are still on, and I hear the normal background initializing sounds. Everything looks/sounds normal. When I finally turn the key over to start, all the lights shutdown and nothing happens. No start, no cranking sound. Just quiet. When I remove the key from the ignition and try to put the car into the ON position again, this time there are no dash lights, or any lights on at all. The car seems like it's completely dead. I used a backup key fob only with the same results. I removed the battery to verify its condition at Interstate Batteries (MTP-94R/H7). It's known working/good. Reinstalled the battery. POS/NEG clamps are tight as can be. I can't even lock/unlock the car using my current key fob or backup key fob anymore. I can only lock the car using the manual method. The car is a Tiptronic.

I've come to the conclusion that it could be one of these possible issues:

Battery (I'm still thinking it's the battery, haha.)
Ignition Switch (Key turns smoothly, no resistance. Ruling out possible steering lock assembly.) Heard this can cause weird electrical issues as well.
Immobilizer (Considering car won't even turn over. But, car DID unlock. So, ???)
Starter

Anything else you guys can think of to look at? Thanks!
 

Last edited by Shecky; 10-25-2015 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:06 AM
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Check the clutch switch.
 
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shecky
Hi guys!

I'm currently having issues starting my car. I unlocked my car with the key fob. When I open the door, the normal dashboard lights displaying mileage, time, etc. are on. When I insert the key into the ignition and turn the key to the ON position, all the lights are still on, and I hear the normal background initializing sounds. Everything looks/sounds normal. When I finally turn the key over to start, all the lights shutdown and nothing happens. No start, no cranking sound. Just quiet. When I remove the key from the ignition and try to put the car into the ON position again, this time there are no dash lights, or any lights on at all. The car seems like it's completely dead. I used a backup key fob only with the same results. I removed the battery to verify its condition at Interstate Batteries (MTP-94R/H7). It's known working/good. Reinstalled the battery. POS/NEG clamps are tight as can be. I can't even lock/unlock the car using my current key fob or backup key fob anymore. I can only lock the car using the manual method. The car is a Tiptronic.

I've come to the conclusion that it could be one of these possible issues:

Battery (I'm still thinking it's the battery, haha.)
Ignition Switch (Key turns smoothly, no resistance. Ruling out possible steering lock assembly.) Heard this can cause weird electrical issues as well.
Immobilizer (Considering car won't even turn over. But, car DID unlock. So, ???)
Starter

Anything else you guys can think of to look at? Thanks!

My WAG would be battery then ignition switch.

As for the immobilizer: When the key is turned an RF signal is emitted from an antenna located behind the ignition switch surround. The RFID pill in the key head is energized from this signal and responds with its ID. If this ID is recognized the immobilizer lets the engine crank. If the engine cranks but doesn't fire that's another story.

However if the battery is sick, the immobilizer might not have enough energy to work properly so we are back to the battery.

If it is the ignition switch you might be able to effect some change - maybe for the better -- by wiggling the key pushing the key one direction or another to see if you can affect the switch connections.
 
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Macster
My WAG would be battery then ignition switch.

As for the immobilizer: When the key is turned an RF signal is emitted from an antenna located behind the ignition switch surround. The RFID pill in the key head is energized from this signal and responds with its ID. If this ID is recognized the immobilizer lets the engine crank. If the engine cranks but doesn't fire that's another story.

However if the battery is sick, the immobilizer might not have enough energy to work properly so we are back to the battery.

If it is the ignition switch you might be able to effect some change - maybe for the better -- by wiggling the key pushing the key one direction or another to see if you can affect the switch connections.
Thanks for chiming in, Macster!

Maybe you can help decipher this oddity:

Today, I opened up the door manually. I inserted the key into the ignition and put the car in the ON position. No lights anywhere.. okay. So, I opened up the hood and connected my jump starter (JNC 660). I inserted the key into the ignition and put the car in the ON position once more.. and the lights were on this time. I didn't turn the key to crank. Instead, I turned on the headlights. The headlights were as bright as can be. This is with the jump starter connected to the battery. So, I turned off the headlights. I disconnected the jump starter from the battery, and turned on the headlights again (just the battery now). The headlights were bright.. but within (5/6 seconds?) the headlights turned off completely and all the lights in the dash went off. Moved the key around in the ignition to get the dash lights on again.. no avail.

So, I disconnected the battery. Went to my local auto parts store to have the battery tested. This is the second time testing the battery. Was told the battery is good.. It REALLY sounds like it's the battery. But, I'm being told it's good!? Any ideas?
 
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:47 AM
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Are you sure the battery is actually being tested? And fully tested?
 
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Macster
Are you sure the battery is actually being tested? And fully tested?
BATTERY! It was the battery. Had them run a battery test, and they said it was good. Had them run a diagnostic charge, and waited in store. Within an hour or so, receipt printed and said "REPLACE BATTERY". During the initial test, battery was showing 12.6v at a 70% charge. Battery reached an 80% charge and capped. Couldn't hold a charge above that. Bought a new battery in store, installed it at home, and all is well! Put about 60 miles on her yesterday without a hitch!

Appreciate the help, friend!
 
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:47 AM
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Here's an easy test: Next time, turn on your headlamps with the key in the pre-start position. Headlight will be bright. Next, start the car with the lamps still on. If the headlights dim significantly while the starter draws amperage, it's your battery
 
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by b2sc
Here's an easy test: Next time, turn on your headlamps with the key in the pre-start position. Headlight will be bright. Next, start the car with the lamps still on. If the headlights dim significantly while the starter draws amperage, it's your battery
Quoted from above..

Originally Posted by Shecky
Today, I opened up the door manually. I inserted the key into the ignition and put the car in the ON position. No lights anywhere.. okay. So, I opened up the hood and connected my jump starter (JNC 660). I inserted the key into the ignition and put the car in the ON position once more.. and the lights were on this time. I didn't turn the key to crank. Instead, I turned on the headlights. The headlights were as bright as can be. This is with the jump starter connected to the battery. So, I turned off the headlights. I disconnected the jump starter from the battery, and turned on the headlights again (just the battery now). The headlights were bright.. but within (5/6 seconds?) the headlights turned off completely and all the lights in the dash went off. Moved the key around in the ignition to get the dash lights on again.. no avail.
 
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