Have a very slow leak at the oil supply end of both rams. Sleeve that banjo fitting is attached to, held in place by an external circlip weeps. Aware that this part is externally sealed to the ram by two o'rings. Feel that over time the seals have hardened up and are now more flat than round. Anyhow, question is, does one just remove the banjo fitting & retainer, pull the sleeve out, swap the seals and banjo washers & install? Would I be looking at bleeding the system as well? Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. :-)

 

You can remove the banjo fittings and replace the copper crush washers. Then go through the fill and bleed exercise. I don’t have a torque recommendation. One guy recommends removing the whole deck lid and flipping it over for the fill and bleed exercise.

 

Response appreciated. Leak originates beyond the crush washers.... problem area is the two O'rings on the sleeve that the banjo is attached to.

 

you need to remove the decklid to re-bleed and flip it for sure. as to simply r&r'ing washers at the banjo bolts? dave here knows better than i about the inner workings and whether or not new crush washers will eliminate or even slow bad seals.

i've been very lucky for the last decade with this car's wing with annual diligence and maintenance and my still fully functional spoiler, after what now must be my 4th(?) re-bleed.

Or i'd have bought dave's e-ram kit ( by now lol ).

here's the "how to" if you decide to go for it. 1st time could take two hours. 4th time? one hr max. GL w it1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position

2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.

3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid

4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud

5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed

6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening

7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.

8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off

9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining

10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids

11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full

12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts

13. Torque the banjo bolts snug

14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires

15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)

16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts

17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud

18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light

 

Appreciate the time and effort taken to forward this procedure. Will print and use, again, thank you.

 

that DIY was found here years ago and has served many of "us" well. now that i remember, the owners manual even has some minor mention of a "rebleed" protocol though it's very scant on detail!

good luck with it. cheers