thanks Cann
i think i have a bit more going on with my car...
i noticed when goign around a bender and shifting from 2nd to 3rd while coming out, the tranny wont engage... i will hook up a gopro to the back and see how much the exhaust travels.

ive got 60k miles, maybe my motor mounts are shot.

im experiencing a little bit of wiggle from the rear under hard braking now too. and mind you , i have a cup car diff with a super high preload. something like a 50/80 (80 on decel).

 

^^^You're welcome and best of luck w/ getting things sorted out. FWIW I have 50,000 miles on mine and the motor mounts seem OK.

 

sanheim, thanks for the feedback. I almost corrected your "cero" spelling until I realize where you are from :-). Anyway if you could pls give full review of Eibach spring when you have a chance since I think you are one of the very few people on this forum who have it.
And yep your observation is why I've often mentioned the Tarett drop link is, BY FAR, the most cost effective mod in our Turbo. Anyone who is interested in learning and experiencing what a stiff link does, this is the one to try. So cheap, user adjustable, completely reversible, sinfully fun to play with. http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm

Links with metallic joint, whether rear toe link, or drop link, etc., reduce the play of the suspension system and that's what you are observing. BTW, an after-market drop link also increases the effectiveness of the sway bar; middle setting of sway bar would become somewhere between middle and hard, etc.

The stiffness should increase only mild to moderately. At lower setting, in theory sway bar & related components increase primarily roll stiffness, as opposed to stiffer spring, which would increase both roll stiffness AND ride stiffness. (In practice, at higher settting, the stiffest setting of the GMG sway, the sway *does* add to ride stiffness as well, quite a bit in fact such that I've never used it in my Bilstein car.)
What's most noticeable to me is that when you hit a bump, car would make a slightly louder and higher frequency thud sound.

 

Had enough reading about them, just ordered the drop links. Hopefully will get them on before the Glen in 2 weeks. And they are cheap compared to everything else tracking does to your pocket.

 

50/80 are the ramps. Preload is determined by the belville washer. If your rear end is dancing around under hard braking, it may be caused by your rear suspension toeing out as the soft rubber bushings compress. If you install solid thrust arm bushings and monoballs on your rear LCAs, that will normally lock the rear end down and maintain toe under high loads. I have full monoballs and it makes the car razor sharp and super stable under hard braking or accelaration. To my surprise I have not noticed any downsides like noise or harshness.

 

Hi, thanks for the feedback; I am not surprised about your finding. Solid metallic links remove free play and add precision to car's movement.

Am I reading it right you have JRZ coilover in your car - 996 TT right? Cool. A member here was installing JRZ in his 997 TT S and had some questions about the free length of the rear spring. Do you happen to know lengths of your front and rear springs? What rates are you using?

 

Yes, I run JRZ dampeners on my car which is essentially set up like a GT2 as virtually everything has been swapped over. With that said, I can tell you that the JRZ dampeners are in a whole new league compared to Bilstein or H&R kits I've run before. I'm not saying the Bilsteins arent good, but the JRZs really are magical shocks. I run them in conjunction with Eibach ERS race springs 600lb front (6") and 800lb rears (7") plus 175lb tenders both front and rear. Upper mounts are JRZ monoball. The ride is firm but not at all jarring if that makes sense. The shocks are so good that I'm going to be upping the rates to 700/900 when I convert to GT3 Cup uprights later this month.

 

1. Thanks for the helpful reply. The problem my forum friend had with his 997 TTS's JRZ install was the rear spring being too short at 6 inches - I see you are using 7; will let him know.

2. Are your tender springs NOT fully collapsed when car sits static on ground, at static ride height? In other words, true tender spring and not helper spring?

3. Could you explain why are you changing to GT3 Cup Upright (that's the steering knuckle right?)? Why now and not before?
You seem to have found a piece of heaven for your car's suspension - congrats.

 

Thanks for the kind words..

1. Yep, 6" front and 7" rear is the correct height

2. I guess I said it wrong. They are helper springs (not tender) as they are fully collapsed at normal ride height. Their primary function is to keep tension on the mains as the suspension is extended

3. The GT3 cup uprights (knuckles) are not only lighter but are designed to maintain proper geometry at very low ride heights. My car is set up just a shade over cup ride height (over 2" lower than stock) and with the stock uprights I am currently having some minor mid corner issues in some of the corners at my track. I wasn't really aware of it until we began fine tuning the set up on the car. I am fortunate to be working with a very accomplished cup racer who is also incredibly knowledgeable at setting up these cars. He has spend some time driving my car at the track and is basically coming up with the proper fixes, the uprights being one of them. Obviously the GT3 uprights will only work on a RWD platform. You can see the following thread I posted on the 996TT forum detailing some of the changes we have done so far:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...l?#post3916075

 

Hello,

I hace the JRZ setup on my 997.2 Turbo S and I'm having some issues at the moment.

First I had too short rear springs of 5'', JRZ now sent me 8''.

Im running 5'' Front...

I'm having an annoying clunk noise on the front, we are working on it right now.

Any advice? What clicks di you run?

 

You shouldn't get any clunking. That's not right. Make sure the upper mount bolts are tight (both at the chassis and the mount itself) and check the sway bar connection at the links. Make sure your drop links are not rubbing on anything as clearance can be tight sometimes. Are you using Tarett links? When my shocks were new there was some occasional squeezing but that gradually went away as everything broke in.

 

Would you be able to take a picture of your setup at front?

Maybe of your springs, and the top base and plate?

Right now we compressed the small spring almost all the way with the car on the air, and I'm still getting a knock sound. We are thinking of fully compressing it on the air and see what happens.

Pictures would be nice! Maybe some detail I'm leaving out...

Let me know .

 

Mario I am no expert but it doesn't seem right that those helper springs are fully compressed with car in the air. In fact I would feel quite uncomfortable with it, for safety reason, in the sense that you might be missing something important here. Maybe these JRZ are made to fit only the GT class 997, not our Turbo?

FWIW, someone on this forum (a friend of mine) also tried JRZ with his 997 TT and I vaguely recall he had quite a bit of difficulty, even with professional installers involved. He eventually got the install problem solved, but then car became so stiff IIRC that he ended up getting rid of it eventually.

 

I've been talking directly with Bryan Hise from JRZ since I'm getting zero support from where I bought the suspension from.

I've sent pictures of my installation, and it seems to be correct.

The reason we've compressed the helper spring completely is only to "check". But that didn't solve anything.

My next test is going to be swapping out the Shock for another one (We bought 2 sets for 2 cars of same model).

If the Shock is the one with the problem, JRZ will send me a new one.

I'm aware that the drop links are supposed to make some sound, but I even tried it without drop links and the same thing happens. Constant clunk noise from the passenger side.

Like I told my brother, if I can't get this whole sound thing fixed with the other shock, I'll just be purchasing another suspension. As good as JRZ is, which I'm sure it's great, I simply can't deal with this kind of sound in my car and with such poor support from the vendor.

 

Mario, check for any play in the left control arm,next check the alignment specially position of the cumber bolts (front and rear) see if they are matched left to right ,check if your shock are set to same height left-right in front and left-right in rear.Look at the position of springs plates- that will tell you if your car is even.If your shock is set higher on left side in front you may get the clinking sound on passenger side. When turbo cars are drop more then 20mm alignment is very tricky to be set correctly- experience and master installer is a must