There's a 2008 997tt at a non-Porsche dealership (Audi), which was traded in on a R8. It has less than 2k miles on it. Price is in my ballpark. Would appreciate any input from members:

I'm planning on asking for a ppi from a Porsche dealer, is that reasonable/sensible? Can Audi read the DME from a Porsche?

The carfax looks clean. Second owner barely put 20 miles on it, I'm not sure that even makes sense. Any other questions I should be asking about this car? I know the basics like service history, accident history etc... Is the carfax info reliable?

thanks all. Looking forward to being a turbo owner!!!!

 

sounds ok to me. See if you can negotiate in the extended warranty. Have Porsche check the DME for any over-revs and such. But with only 2K miles, as long as the price is right, then it should be good. This car is barely broken in. Good luck.

 

20 miles for a second owner seems kind of iffy... are you sure thats not the period when it went between dealerships?

Either way the DME readout will give you a piece of mind so definitely do that.

 

Why not pay a Porsche dealer to do a service inspection on it? I did that before I bought my 997C2S. I think I paid about $200 or so. They may even discount that some (or all) depending on how much local Porsche service competition you have. Maybe for some that's overkill, since it's still under warranty.

 

Thanks guys,
I do plan on getting a Porsche dealer to give it a pre-purchase inspection including checking for over-revs etc...
I don't think I can negotiate an extended warranty (cpo?) since it's not a Porsche dealer. I'll be bringing it up to Canada and I think there have been some issues with warranty coverage (people having to wait many weeks to get service) but with less than 2k on it hopefully there won't be any major issues.
I was mistaken about the 20 mile thing. That was just in carfax and probably referred to the time for test drive etc... between purchases. There were actually hundreds of miles put on by the second owner.
Let's see where things go from here. I saw a grey 997 turbo on the way home today and it restarted my drooling.

 

CPO is the "way to go" IMO

too many "what ifs" otherwise

 

very true. I'd prefer a cpo'd car but the one I saw with the red deviated stitching (black on black car) sold already.

 

cpo
+1

 

This discussion reminds me to ask....Why is the cpo so important? It seems to cost $3-5K or more depending on comps between non-dealer cars and various dealer prices. (As you know lots of dealers are way high on all their cars regardless of cpo ststus)...This seems like pretty expensive insurance for a car everybody always heeps praise on and is often referred to as being a bulletproof daily driver. Any thoughts?

 

A CPO costs between $1-1.5K. I wouldn't have a PPI done at a Porsche dealer - get a good independent shop to do it, including a leak-down test. Type 1 and Type 2 "over-revs" are over-rated problems if other things check out.

 

I understand the suggestion that a cpo "costs" only $1000-$1500 (although I think thats a low ball#) but my impression is that this is because you are already paying a higher Porsche dealer used car price and they are the only ones who can add it on to that number..Compare non P-dealer pricing...

 

Although the cpo itself only "costs" say 1500 bucks the cars themselves are quite a bit more expensive at the Porsche dealers from my research.

Why not get a Porsche dealership to do a PPI? I don't know any good trustworthy independent places in the US so that's not really an option for me. It's not the stage 1 and 2 overrevs I'm concerned with but the the 3 and 4 or higher. That's what will void a warranty. I'm a little confused on how you can overrev a car with a rev limiter, anyone care to clarify for me? I can see how easy it is to bump into the rev limiter in first gear, I did it almost every time when I test drove one!

 

Unfortunately, it's easy for those careless enough to miss a shift, when downshifting, to overrev the engine. For instance, if one is at speed and wants to slow down, with braking the car slows, then one shifts to a lower gear, say from sixth to fourth. With the 6-speed gear shift, the shifter will come up from sixth and slide over out of gear to be pulled straight down to fourth. If one pulls the shifter ever so slightly over too far to the left, then pulls down-into second gear-and the engine is revving sufficiently from its pull in sixth gear-with or without heel/toe, second gear will require very high revs, so the engine literally revs "through" the computer-set rev limit-a bad thing.

This is much more stressful to the engine than merely stabbing the throttle in a given gear and revving the engine up to the computer-set cutoff-which I admit I do often.

 

Ah, thanks for the info.
The Canadian dollar is getting stronger every day. Almost time to pull the trigger on a turbo.

 

Ya snooze ya lose. I was ready to come up a little in price only to find that the one I had my eye on has been sold. bummer.

It was black on black with red deviated stitching and low miles. If anyone knows of another like it please post! I guess I'll continue to comb ebay, cars.com etc....