My new HRE P40's
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From: Palos Verdes
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I only lower by 15mm as otherwise the ride is too rough over bumpy British back roads (where I have all my fun!). I started at -25mm, then tried -20mm then settled on -15mm as being the best ride. <= that is from 2 years of testing different configurations with my expert suspension tuner (best in the UK).
It just now dawns on me the possible reason why you and I have such different observation about this: we have identical components, EXCEPT for the more solid rod end control arms in your car.
Speculative of course, but I am willing to bet that the solid joints are less forgiving of changes in the suspension system's 3 dimensional geometrical relationship (ok I made that up :-)), i.e. the spatial relationship of the links.
I cannot think of any other possible explanation.
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From: London, UK
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Re. variation of stiffness with ride height, it's always a puzzle to me why I don't feel any, and I know you've reported it after very careful observations and trials. Even more puzzling is the fact that we have *idendical* suspension components in our Turbo's: GMG sway, Bilstein Damptronic, even the wheels.
It just now dawns on me the possible reason why you and I have such different observation about this: we have identical components, EXCEPT for the more solid rod end control arms in your car.
Speculative of course, but I am willing to bet that the solid joints are less forgiving of changes in the suspension system's 3 dimensional geometrical relationship (ok I made that up :-)), i.e. the spatial relationship of the links.
I cannot think of any other possible explanation.
It just now dawns on me the possible reason why you and I have such different observation about this: we have identical components, EXCEPT for the more solid rod end control arms in your car.
Speculative of course, but I am willing to bet that the solid joints are less forgiving of changes in the suspension system's 3 dimensional geometrical relationship (ok I made that up :-)), i.e. the spatial relationship of the links.
I cannot think of any other possible explanation.
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From: London, UK
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Hi Mike
Really appreciate your feedback on the rod-ends - always good to get well educated points of view
I guess what I am saying is low price FK rod-ends are perhaps not a suitable application for suspension parts on a 997 Turbo subjected to English weather and poor road surfaces for 2 years. I am sure they would have lasted longer if rubber booties had been supplied to protect from the elements.
I am not upset about the FK rod-ends (as you indeed get what you pay for) I am more upset about not knowing these would wear so quickly and then cost me a ridicous amount of money in replacement parts, labour and shredded tyres from the wheels wobbling. If given the option when I bought the original parts I would have asked to upgrade to top of the line Aurora or regular MNB with rubber booties and saved myself a lot of time and money.
Really appreciate your feedback on the rod-ends - always good to get well educated points of view
I guess what I am saying is low price FK rod-ends are perhaps not a suitable application for suspension parts on a 997 Turbo subjected to English weather and poor road surfaces for 2 years. I am sure they would have lasted longer if rubber booties had been supplied to protect from the elements.
I am not upset about the FK rod-ends (as you indeed get what you pay for) I am more upset about not knowing these would wear so quickly and then cost me a ridicous amount of money in replacement parts, labour and shredded tyres from the wheels wobbling. If given the option when I bought the original parts I would have asked to upgrade to top of the line Aurora or regular MNB with rubber booties and saved myself a lot of time and money.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Palos Verdes
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I had 2 Aurora bearings (female) at £75 each for the toe-steer, 8 MNB bearings (male) at £100 each for the dog-bones. FK's are about £10 each I seem to recall. I got all mine from a UK distributor but this place I refer to over on TS looks like it's in the US: http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodhow.htm. The tricky bit is finding the right sizes to replace the parts you already have. We had to measure the old ones before we ordered new ones (so I have dimensions for GMG replacements if required).
I wonder what brand is used in Porsche's OEM solid link?
Questions pls: Did tuner tell you which part wore out the most, the upper arm (dog bones) or the lower/toe control arm? Which end?
It's amazing to think they've become so loose that you could shake the wheels by hands. When you have pictures of the joints, please post - will be educational for all of us I think. Thanks.
Last edited by cannga; Oct 26, 2011 at 01:26 PM.
I think CO r next
