997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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Clutch problem

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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:15 AM
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Clutch problem

Guys, I did a search on actuator/slave cylinder but didn't quite understand if it pertains to my problem. Please bare with me as I am not mechanically inclined on what my problem is.

Car: 07 997TT 6-speed

It began last week when I pressed on the clutch pedal and noticed a squeaky sound when it was pressed all the way (like an old bed frame sound). But the clutch operated fine so I thought nothing of it. (Not sure if this relates or led up the problem that I am dealing with now).

I woke up yesterday and like any other day started the car up in the morning. However when I started the car, I noticed that the clutch only came back 1/2 way. It was strange. So I stepped on it a few more times to see if maybe it was "caught" on something and would fix itself. It didn't. I proceeded to reverse the car out of the garage but found it extremely difficult to put into reverse. Finally as I started to drive, I noticed that the clutch would catch extremely early on its release. Something was definitely off.

Finally, I just randomly decided to use the tip of my shoe to pull the clutch back towards me from behind the clutch pedal. It worked. The clutch returned to it's normal position, though the feel of the pedal was still "off" slightly.

Today, the same thing happened. I took the car to the dealer and was told that the actuator needs to be replaced. This unit has something to do with the hydraulics in the clutch making the pedal return the normal position? It was worn out and needs to be replaced I'm told.

As I mentioned I am not mechanically savvy so I am looking for some help/advice.

I've been told by another source that it could be the slave cylinder. So I ask is the slave cylinder the same thing as the actuator? If not, then which one am I most likely dealing with? Or am I dealing with both as in it is a combo failure?

I'd hate to get one thing repaired only to find that it was something else and have to return to the dealership and pay twice to have the transmission removed again (double charge) if I had to replace either the actuator or slave cylinder the second time. Or am I over thinking in my head and the actuator/slave cylinder is the same thing, thus only needing a one time repair?

How much does this type of repair cost? I am told $1600? Does this sound right? I'm astounded to learn that the actuator part only cost less than $200?!?! The rest is labor??

The clutch itself drove fine as I remember it. No slipping, so I am guessing that I don't need a new clutch? However if I am to have the transmission removed at this point, should I just go ahead and install a new (more robust unit to handle the upgrade power) clutch if I am planning to get an ECU tune? (Will eventually do ECU tune + intercooler upgrade, nothing more). Or will the stock clutch handle this type of power upgrade just fine? I have no interest in doing turbo upgrade.

Thanks.
 

Last edited by Easy888; Aug 15, 2012 at 12:18 AM.
Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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My advice is dont repair it, replace it with GT2 slave kit. And yes, get a stronger clutch setup if you plan to mod down the road. Also go to a good independant who has performed the swap before, dont give the stealership business as this should be a warranty / recall item and not a bend the customer over after warranty due to a known faulty product item.
 
Old Aug 15, 2012 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by gmoney
My advice is dont repair it, replace it with GT2 slave kit. And yes, get a stronger clutch setup if you plan to mod down the road. Also go to a good independant who has performed the swap before, dont give the stealership business as this should be a warranty / recall item and not a bend the customer over after warranty due to a known faulty product item.
I agree, from reading into it more, it seems that this is more a faulty design from Porsche and should be covered as an recall.

That said, it also seems that Porsche did make changes to the original actuator/accumulator/slave cylinder so that the replacement parts are not exactly the same as the faulty ones?
 
Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:22 AM
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Good advice from gmoney. You'll absolutely need a stronger clutch & pressure plate if you plan on upgrading power (so save yourselve labor and do it while the trans is out). A lot of people go with the "sachs 2.5" setup and like it, depending on how much power you are eventually trying to put down.

The the hydrolic actuator/slave failure will keep happening at this same interval, and the GT2 conversion will prevent future failures because it eliminates the hydrolic (failure prone) components and replaces with the non-hydrolic GT2 setup. This also makes the clutch about 3-4 times heavier in feel, but with that it gives much more pedal feel (no longer vague engagement when releasing the pedal). This is additional labor on top of the clutch/pressure plate install, but also requires the trans to be lowered, so you save if doing at the same time.
 
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