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After cold start, when can you start DRIVING ??

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Old 11-13-2012, 07:15 PM
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After cold start, when can you start DRIVING ??

In my ZO6, I typically wait until the oil temp hits 115-120 F. But in the TTS, the oil temp gauge doesn't even start until 150 F.

Once you cold start the car and start driving, what reference do you all use to know it's safe to start driving harder?

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CodeBlue911
In my ZO6, I typically wait until the oil temp hits 115-120 F. But in the TTS, the oil temp gauge doesn't even start until 150 F.

Once you cold start the car and start driving, what reference do you all use to know it's safe to start driving harder?

Thanks!
I take it easy (keep it below 4000 rpm) until the oil temp gets above 175.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:44 AM
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Even when it is cold (0C) it only takes a few minutes until oil hits 175, I can wait till then and I keep it below 3000.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 05:41 AM
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My turbos do not see winter weather. However, when I take them out in nice weather, I will let them idle for a minute or two before driving ( as my wife loads whatever into the car etc ) and then off we go. I keep out of boost until the oil temp gauge is 160's 170's. I do not get hard on it until everything shows up to temp.

Also, I am old school, and I let the car idle for at least 30 seconds before I shut it off. Allowing me to feel better, and the turbos to cool.

Mike
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:04 AM
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Pretty much shortly after starting I take off in the car. I keep it below 3K until all mechanicals warm up and I keep out of the boost (generally 150-175 on oil temperature. Besides the engine, this routine warms up the transmission, front diff, and importantly the wheel bearings.

When shutting down I just take it easy and stay out of boost the last couple of miles and in that way I still get airflow without beating on the car. If the car is running hot, I turn on the heater full blast at maximum temperature which cools the engine down in a hurry, but it does make the cabin hot as hell :-)
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by aa909
I take it easy (keep it below 4000 rpm) until the oil temp gets above 175.
This is what I do also, per manual's recommendation I believe. I start driving immediately after a cold start and keep it under 4000 rpm until oil is warm. I have been doing this same routine, daily, the 4 years that I've owned the car and have had no problem that I know of, currently at 42,000 miles. I am also in California, where it's never that hot or that cold; whether this routine should be modified if ambient temp is really cold or really hot, I don't know.

BTW, IMHO engine at idle with car not moving is not that good a combination since there is no air/wind blowing through intercooler and engine to cool things down. If "initial resting" is what one plans to do, better to drive car slowly than to park at idle I think.

Also agreed with 512bb about the proper way to ending a drive - drive slower and stay off boost to allow things to cool down. I don't do it nearly enough though because there is a very FUN switchback right before arriving at my house. The heater-full-blast trick to cool engine down is very interesting.
 

Last edited by cannga; 11-14-2012 at 06:24 AM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:26 AM
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idling the car on cold start up only warms the engine. the differential, gearbox etc remain cold until you start driving. so if you let the oil temp get up to 175+ and start pushing it hard you are doing so with the rest of the drivetrain still relatively cold.

optimal warm up is to start driving gently as others have stated to allow the entire drivetrain to warm up.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by svoshop
My turbos do not see winter weather. ..
Shame... The turbos LOVE colder weather.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jaspergtr
Shame... The turbos LOVE colder weather.

Yes they do, but not PS2's, had them slip on third gear pulls. Temp was at 38F
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by eurotom
Yes they do, but not PS2's, had them slip on third gear pulls. Temp was at 38F
True... It's like roller skates on ice.

Still pretty fun.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:38 AM
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Heater-full-blast trick. Hmm.. You want to keep the oil flowing through the turbo's to prevent the things from coking up. You do that with 2+ minutes idling and/or by not applying boost a few minutes before you shut the car down. The engine / engine bay will heat up after you shut the car down (there is a major exhaust system heating up the space). That's why the fans will monitor that temp and "evacuate" hot air for up to 45 minutes or so by switching on the fan automatically. I am even thinking that opening the engine lid is not good as it prevents the fan from "sucking" the hot air through the engine thus eliminating hot spots in the engine. That's the way I think about this. Am I wrong?
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:30 PM
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The fan actually sucks cold air in on mine. I think to cool down the power steering pump mainly and pushes the air down. I have noticed that if after track sessions I open the engine the power steering pump tends to boil over whereas if I keep it closed the fan keeps it cool.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:33 PM
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Really? Are you talking about your Ferrari?? In a Porsche it's supposed to suck the air OUT, , not IN...... Am I wrong .. again??
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by hroussard
Really? Are you talking about your Ferrari?? In a Porsche it's supposed to suck the air OUT, , not IN...... Am I wrong .. again??
Yep - the fan is a blower, not a sucker - blows air into the engine bay - some have posted by doing that any heat soak created by the exhaust system isn't pulled back into the engine bay.
 
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:02 PM
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Well, that is a every interesting topic, just do a search and you will see ... It seems there are blowers and there are suckers. Mine is a Sucker, it pulls the hot air out of the engine compartment . I have a Factory Aero wing so I wonder if that might be the reason for it. I do not know but I can tell you that this thing really move a lot of hot air :-)
 


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