Would you buy a 997.1 Turbo with
Would you buy a 997.1 Turbo with
Considering the purchase of a 97 TT 911 with 52,500 miles. It has the PCCB and a few other nice options. Car can be had for around $51 - $52K tops. Just wondering if this is something to stay away from or if I should pull the trigger. What would you guys do? I wasn't thinking of getting a car with such high miles, but this one recently presented itself and seems to be pretty nice. Only issue is not much by way of service records and servicing the PCCB's makes me a little nervous although they are supposed to be good for 100K if the pads are changed in time.
Your thoughts???
Your thoughts???
Considering the purchase of a 97 TT 911 with 52,500 miles. It has the PCCB and a few other nice options. Car can be had for around $51 - $52K tops. Just wondering if this is something to stay away from or if I should pull the trigger. What would you guys do? I wasn't thinking of getting a car with such high miles, but this one recently presented itself and seems to be pretty nice. Only issue is not much by way of service records and servicing the PCCB's makes me a little nervous although they are supposed to be good for 100K if the pads are changed in time.
Your thoughts???
Your thoughts???
I wouldn't be scared of a car with that mileage as far as reliability or mechanical problems for that matter, assuming that you get a PPI and all checks out... especially at that price! All that said, what is your motivation? What is your budget? If you are going to dd the car? you can look at it 3 ways.
1. If you plan to drive it often, like dd...Your gonna rack miles on it anyway why not buy one that someone else took a hit as a result, so it hurts you less in resale. As long as its a good deal.
2. If you plan to clean it more than you drive it, and want to secure more value stability for your future resale, then you need to look at lower miles so you have that edge in resale and don't turn off buyers with higher that average miles.
3. If you will very rarely drive it, then eventually other cars will catch up and the playing field will be close to equal and you bought a deal and took less of a hit.
At the end of it all... its not a cheap purchase. Make sure that you get the car that you want and don't settle, or you will always second guess your decision. Getting a car that is optioned right with low mile will cost you say $10K, if you plan to finance you talking $200 per mo on a 60 mo term. Owning one now, I bought low miles and drive it pretty often because I love it. I will probably have higher than average miles when I finally decide to sell it and I don't care, because I bought it to drive not to sit and rot.
A garage queen isn't always a good thing. Buy the best car you can for your budget, and if your budget is the bigger concern... find a deal and drive the hell out of it!!!
1. If you plan to drive it often, like dd...Your gonna rack miles on it anyway why not buy one that someone else took a hit as a result, so it hurts you less in resale. As long as its a good deal.
2. If you plan to clean it more than you drive it, and want to secure more value stability for your future resale, then you need to look at lower miles so you have that edge in resale and don't turn off buyers with higher that average miles.
3. If you will very rarely drive it, then eventually other cars will catch up and the playing field will be close to equal and you bought a deal and took less of a hit.
At the end of it all... its not a cheap purchase. Make sure that you get the car that you want and don't settle, or you will always second guess your decision. Getting a car that is optioned right with low mile will cost you say $10K, if you plan to finance you talking $200 per mo on a 60 mo term. Owning one now, I bought low miles and drive it pretty often because I love it. I will probably have higher than average miles when I finally decide to sell it and I don't care, because I bought it to drive not to sit and rot.
A garage queen isn't always a good thing. Buy the best car you can for your budget, and if your budget is the bigger concern... find a deal and drive the hell out of it!!!
Last edited by eNVy997tt; Feb 15, 2014 at 09:09 AM.
Low 50's for a car with PCCBs and decent milage, even with a minor accident, is a really good deal as long as the PPI passes and the DME report looks good. Im also looking for a similar car, good luck with it.
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PASS!!!! Rear engine car with a rear end accident is a NO NO
No way pass. Plus I know I wouldn't buy a 911 tt with a accident. Im sure most wouldn't. If your spending $50,000 ( not chump change by any means ) go the extra distance and get the right one. Save a little longer if need be. It'll be worth it.
From what I am told, it doesn't appear on the CarFax, and it was very minor as in the car rolled into the rear bumper in traffic. Less than 1mph impact. Only thing changed was the rear bumper because it had a crack. Nothing else changed or replaced.
From your response it seems your okay that it's been in a minor accident. With that out of the way, here is some advice on things to think about…as a 50K turbo can turn into a 60k turbo in the blink of an eye:
Tires - approx 2K installed w/labor all in (MPS2, etc.)
Brakes - does it need pads, rotors, etc. (with PCCB this is critical to know)
Preventive Maintenance - look up what should be done @ 50k, don't know off hand but would guess - plugs, filters, fluids, etc. (depending on needs ~1-2k for major service)
Clutch - is it a 6speed?
TPMS - OEM on all for tires = ~1k at the dealer installed
Warranty - what's your comfort level here? It's out of factory warranty and won't qualify for CPO. If the car qualifies, you can purchase a warranty from Fidelity/EasyCare but would be very pricey at that mileage. Reason I ask is this, are you okay with the fact that a small leak to an antifreeze line located on top of the engine (~$25 part) requires the engine to be removed and will be expensive to fix on your dime? There are little things that can come up on these cars. I wouldn't say this is common but you'll read about this and that on occasion.
What shape is the interior/exterior in? Do you care if the seats are worn or if the interior leather is not in good shape? Rock chips and other items, you okay with that? Has it had a clear bra? How many panels painted?
Not trying to scare you away from this in anyway. These are awesome cars, no doubt about it. But, make sure you take the necessary steps to have the car checked out by a respected dealer/mechanic, etc.
Good luck!
Tires - approx 2K installed w/labor all in (MPS2, etc.)
Brakes - does it need pads, rotors, etc. (with PCCB this is critical to know)
Preventive Maintenance - look up what should be done @ 50k, don't know off hand but would guess - plugs, filters, fluids, etc. (depending on needs ~1-2k for major service)
Clutch - is it a 6speed?
TPMS - OEM on all for tires = ~1k at the dealer installed
Warranty - what's your comfort level here? It's out of factory warranty and won't qualify for CPO. If the car qualifies, you can purchase a warranty from Fidelity/EasyCare but would be very pricey at that mileage. Reason I ask is this, are you okay with the fact that a small leak to an antifreeze line located on top of the engine (~$25 part) requires the engine to be removed and will be expensive to fix on your dime? There are little things that can come up on these cars. I wouldn't say this is common but you'll read about this and that on occasion.
What shape is the interior/exterior in? Do you care if the seats are worn or if the interior leather is not in good shape? Rock chips and other items, you okay with that? Has it had a clear bra? How many panels painted?
Not trying to scare you away from this in anyway. These are awesome cars, no doubt about it. But, make sure you take the necessary steps to have the car checked out by a respected dealer/mechanic, etc.
Good luck!
if the car drives well, and the brake rotors have plenty of life left, i say go for it.
my front bumper was replaced when i bought my turbo. someone backed into it when parking.
@50k all you need to do, in terms of maintenance is spark plugs, oil, and check out the serpentine belt.
in your case the most important thing to look at is brake rotors. they are costly if needed to be replaced.
make sure the wheel bearings are ok (drive it on the highway and listen for humming).
if the car is stock, and you plan on putting a tune in it (otherwise why are you on 6speed
), you will need a clutch in the near future.
as far as tires.. whatever.... im sure the dealer isnt selling you a car with bald tires... and if they do need to be replaced, theres a special going on right now for a set of 19" hankook tires for around $800....
tpms.... its about 1k installed at a dealer, or about $200(parts and labor) installed the next time you replace your tires.(they sell brand new units on ebay for $175, and your tire shop removes the old and installs the new ones when they replace tires, assuming you need to replace them)
if you need pads for the brakes.. youre looking at about $650 front and rear plus labor.
ive never seen or read about someone needing to replace their rotors at such low mileage. theyre good for 150k+ miles (if you replace the pads well before theyre worn).
my front bumper was replaced when i bought my turbo. someone backed into it when parking.
@50k all you need to do, in terms of maintenance is spark plugs, oil, and check out the serpentine belt.
in your case the most important thing to look at is brake rotors. they are costly if needed to be replaced.
make sure the wheel bearings are ok (drive it on the highway and listen for humming).
if the car is stock, and you plan on putting a tune in it (otherwise why are you on 6speed
), you will need a clutch in the near future. as far as tires.. whatever.... im sure the dealer isnt selling you a car with bald tires... and if they do need to be replaced, theres a special going on right now for a set of 19" hankook tires for around $800....
tpms.... its about 1k installed at a dealer, or about $200(parts and labor) installed the next time you replace your tires.(they sell brand new units on ebay for $175, and your tire shop removes the old and installs the new ones when they replace tires, assuming you need to replace them)
if you need pads for the brakes.. youre looking at about $650 front and rear plus labor.
ive never seen or read about someone needing to replace their rotors at such low mileage. theyre good for 150k+ miles (if you replace the pads well before theyre worn).
Last edited by DNugget991GT3; Feb 15, 2014 at 09:07 PM.




