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Yet one more IC thread but this one has datalogs :)
So finally got some own time in the garage, work has seriously interfered with my private life lately.
So short summary, swapped the stock 997.1 for the 997.2 aka GT2RS IC's, this turned out to be seriously much simpler than expected after reading DIY's online (most are for 996's and the fit is worse for those cars). Basically I used a sharp knife and cut 4 slots for the new wider core and then cut some of the plastic away from the plastic strips that snaps it all together.
I can do this conversion in 15min per IC, it is that simple...maybe a bit "ghetto" but seriously ok imo, I will never use the stock 997.1 IC's ever again (and you shouldn't either).
So datalogs, the Cobb makes this so easy, did the same 3rd gear pull in the exact same location (slight uphill stretch of "autobahn" on my way to work). Temperatures slightly higher today than last time with the old IC's. Car slightly more heat soaked due to sitting still in traffic just before doing the pull.
997.1 IC's pull (3rd gear)
Ambient temp = 48.2°F
IAT before pull = 57.7°F
IAT at 5000rpm = 61.7°F
IAT after pull = 91.4°F
Diff about 30°F
997.2 IC's pull (3rd gear)
Ambient temp = 61.7°F (+14°F)
IAT before pull = 76.6°F (+9°F)
IAT at 5000rpm = 73.9°F (+13°F note the new IC's managed to lower iat's during this part of the pull!)
IAT after pull = 83.3°F (-8°F)
Diff about 10°F (-20°F)
So even though it was warmer, and the car started the pull with much warmer iat's, in the exact same location, using the same map, same load and boost, the new IC's are doing a much much better jobb of cooling air.
Since they are good and cheap I think they are the best value for stock frame turbos, not even sure I seen any test where they didn't "win".
did you manage to take any pictures of how you did the fitment and attachments? I will be doing this soon as would love something to reference.
-Jose
I followed therock's DIY for changing plugs to swap the exhaust and IC's, so assuming you have the IC's off the car and removed the metal frame that attaches the IC's to the chassis.
There is two air-ducts channeling air through the IC, they attach to each other with plastic "clips" (the plastic is a bit like rubber).
In each duct I cut slots for the wider core edges. Only took 2 pictures, but the idea is similar for all corners.
And then the clips that holds the air-ducts together I just made a bit "longer" by taking as much as I could/needed out.
I did cut a strip of plastic away on the "inside" of the air ducts, but I don't think it is needed, no picture of it and I think I might only have had done it on one side so...dont believe it was needed in the end.
Since the new core is about 20mm thicker the plastic ducts are a bit further apart than with the 997.1 IC's but reassembly was straight forward and didn't cause any issues due to this.
I've read this before, but at what power level is it an actual restriction?
Pressure loss becomes non-negligible at roughly 700-750hp worth of airflow on these cores. Epoxy the end tanks to prevent leaks/ tank separation if you do run these coolers.
good testing!in my experience they are good to 750+crank hp ! currently at 1.8bar when scrambling and they hold fine but heat soak become a problem at that level...
Are there any recommendations for technique or type of epoxy to use to seal the end tanks? I would like to do this with mine.
Some of the members used alraldite but I went to my local autozone and used the strongest plastic and metal epoxy they had. Mine cured in 4 hours. Worked like a charm. I ended up using a tube per intercooler. Each tube was about $8.
As far as cutting and adapting the intercoolers:
I followed therock's diy for removing the intercoolers but for some reason my car was different. I had to remove some extra bolts that weren't on his guide and on my car, the bracket that holds the intercoolers were attached to the heatshields and would'nt come off. I had to take the intercoolers off from the bracket and the bracket stayed attached to the car.
The amount of cutting was also a lot more significant than it is led to believe based on other posters.
I managed to get it to fit but it was a really tight fit. The first one took about 2 hours and the second one took 1 hour.
The most important thing I learned is that you need to make sure the top intercooler hose is properly inserted BEFORE tightening any bolts. Once the hoses are secure THEN you can go ahead and button everything up.
Next up for me is injectors and dyno tuning this week for e85.
p.s. for cutting, i used a dremel and it made it super easy.
They make taking off the mudflaps super easy. For the cost, it's a no brainer. If you're planning on taking both rear tires off, or if you have a lift then it's not needed. Otherwise, it's a good investment.