Now that you mention railroad, I went past a railroad at high speed and my KW sounded like if I had ran over some bricks on the floor. I really thought my shocks were going to come through the hood.

I'll give the 800 lbs front a try and see how it goes! KW is now all off, JRZ is on now on the rear, working on the front.

 

It seems as though any sudden dip made the noise but KW did offer to fix it . I was told by the shop that it would take several weeks because KW was backed up plus the parts had to be shipped both ways . KW paid the freight too .I had to pay the labor to uninstall and reinstall plus the entire thing was an inconvenience .

I did not expect it after going through the Bilstein obstacle . I have spent so much time and money trying to get this suspension right .

My other cars (13 Boxster S and 15 Macan Turbo) are bone stock and have no issues so as much as i love my 7 year old 997 Turbo (which only has 16 K miles) I hope this recent KW snag is repaired correctly .

You paid 9K for it and I also paid a lot. It really ought to work properly.

 

The saga continues.
So many stories of bad suspension set ups.
What is considered the ultimate street set up?

 

I have not had a problem with my Bilstein Damptronics. There were some initial issues caused by bad installs (missing a washer I believe). And there were additional issues caused by a bad drop link design from Bilstein which has since been corrected on kits beginning a few years ago. So far no issues for me whatsoever since. If you search, member Cannga has a good write up on it.

 

Mine werre installed correctly and even had the updated drop links . in fact it was my installer who noted that Dereks car was an installer issue directed at the washer concern .I posted on that old thread and even had met Derek in person as he came to Miami to buy his car. My car ran fine for 6 years on them until one day i was driving over a speed bump at 3 MPH or so and i heard a crunch . when i turned the steering wheel I heard more crunching and my car looked like this .

 

If I lived in USA, or a place with professional shops, I would just get a JRZ or Moton, get it properly installed and adjusted. I'm sure that's the best setup you can have.

I have the JRZ now, and it's properly installed because we know how it's installed, we struggled for a month back when I first got it.

KW is pretty much going in a box to collect dust in the back of my garage.

 

Ouch, what failed?

 

Mega old bump. I recently picked up a 997tt on KW V3s and the front is prone to bottoming out if you look at it funny. Witness marks on the spring (similar to OP) look like im running out of spring.
Please note I do not have the high lift system so my problem is similar but not identical.
From what I can figure out it seems my set of KWs is old enough that it has a linear spring and would have had a set of front helpers. It appears to me these were removed for a lower than recommended ride height. Of course helpers are NLA.

I reached out to KW and they shared the following:
KW - 60210067
ID - 61.5 mm
OD - 81 mm
Relaxed length - 215 mm
Spring rate - Progressive 173 lbs./in
$90 per spring

Looking at both recommendations for replacement springs within this thread:
Eibach 0500.225.0425
ID - 57.15 mm
OD - ??
Relaxed length - 127 mm
Spring rate - 425 lbs./in.

Swift z70-178-040
ID - 70 mm
OD - ??
Relaxed length - 178 mm
Spring rate - 224 lbs/in

Due to the differences in ID it seems to me ill need to measure my spring perches before I order anything. Easy button is to order the new KW springs but I fear they'll be too soft.
Swift makes a 65 mm ID. Shot in the dark - Why was 70 mm selected?
Relaxed length will be another issue - Does anyone know the compressed height of the HLS?

Edit:
I pulled one of the front springs off my car:
ID - 61.5 mm
Relaxed length - 160 mm
Spring rate - 180 lbs./in. (estimated with my bathroom scale)

I put in an order for Swift Z65-178-050 being closest to 997 GT3 front rates (280lbs./in) and .70" (18mm) longer relaxed than current spring. I would have liked a 60mm ID spring but it would require removing spring or perch material. Hopefully the 65mm ID doesn't rattle otherwise ill have to have some adapters turned.
To achieve current ride height I have the springs pre-loaded by 1.75" (45mm) giving approx. 315 lbs per corner. Maintaining pre-load with the new spring rate I will need 1.125" (28.5mm). Reduced pre-load distance and longer spring length means ill be near the bottom of the coilover threads. I cant see myself going lower and this helps match up the spring stroke 4.2" (110mm) less pre-load) and damper stroke ~3.5" (89mm) to the bump stop.