Both my tuners said they can retrofit the lift kit. So it should be possible. But we are really paying a premium for this lift kit as the full kit with V3's is 9k. V3's alone can be had for under 3k.

Anyway, KW won't fix this as they said it works as intended. I believe the rear spring rate is around 700lbs. The rear rates are very good. I believe the springs rates are softer on the HLS kit as opposed to just a V3 kit.

Here's a pic of the spring. I found them online for $80 bucks each. You will need new top hats.

Also check the collar that sits on top of the lift. Mine came loose and rotated 180 degrees. The locking nut stuck out and scratch the inner lip of my HRE's. It's not shown in the pics because i rotated it back to the inside.

 

I am running KW HLS2 on my 2010 997.2 Turbo.

I had major problems with the stock front springs of the HLS kit. After TTChris pointed out how to fix it (thanks TTChris!), I changed my front springs to 224lb spring rate using:

Swift
Part number:
z70-178-040
70mm x 7" length x 224lb spring rate

and things have been great ever since. No more crazy bottoming, decent ride on the street, and very good at the track.






997 Turbo KWv3-HLS2 with Swift 225lb front springs, Stoptech STR60 GMG WC Wheels, Vorsteiner VRT

 

Rough idea of my ride height:

 

Your car looks awesome. What color did you paint your centerlock wheels? Also, what tracks do you race at?

 

KW spring rates are f'd up. The fronts are softer than what I would dare put on a shopping cart. I'm not sure why you removed your JRZs. I ran my JRZ remote canister Pros (I'm assuming that's what you had) with 1100/1200 rates and the ride on the street was downright cushy when compression was set pretty soft. How KW can put on 200lb springs is beyond me. I have since swapped to 1400/1500 for a more track oriented set up. I run Eibach ERS race springs (0500.225.1400 and 0600.225.1500). My suspension makes zero noise and it is full monoball even down to solid subframe bushings. I am slightly above cup height and have zero bottoming issues. You will be hard pressed to beat the JRZ Pros especially is it is set up properly, keyword, "properly".

 

I regret throwing all that money away on KW... I installed my JRZ back on today, but maybe you can help me out with something.

I can't, for some reason, setup the Helper springs properly... I understand they should be fully uncompressed with the car lifted, and fully compressed with the car on the ground.

Now, on my car, I can't seem to have them fully uncompressed with the car lifted unless I lower the car to some extremely low setup.

Can you take pictures of your car's installation and height?

 

You are correct when you say the helper springs will be fully compressed at static ride height. When the car is fully lifted with the suspension at max droop, your helpers will generally be uncompressed but not fully. There should still be some tension on the helper spring thus keeping the main spring seated. The amount of tension will depend on the length of the helper spring, and the stiffness of the main spring. My 1400 and 1500lb main springs have very little compression and thus the helper spring is almost fully uncompressed buy not quite. There is still tension on the main. Also, I'm using 150lb helpers in the front and 250lb helpers in the rear. Another factor is how much droop your shock has. The JRZ pros have relatively little droop when fully unloaded, about 2". Long story short, your mains should be under tension from the helper at full droop. As far as my ride height, I'm at 96mm/120mm which is about 10mm above Cup height. Bear in mind I have solid subframe bushings which raise the subframes on the car compared to a Turbo by 5mm. So effectively, in Turbo lingo, I'm at 96/115mm. These are 996 numbers and do not know how they would translate exactly to 997 cars but it should be very close for comparisson.

Here is a picture from the side:

[url=https://flic.kr/p/obfzdK]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/nTLbUc]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/n2CNsM]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/n61Tu9]

 

Thank you for the info!

The thing is, it seems there's no way for me to have my helper springs even a little uncompressed during droop without dropping the car's height.

So, right now, my Helper springs are completely compressed even during full droop, and my car's height is a little lower than stock. It seems that if I uncompress the helper spring, my car would be way too low.

That's the problem I'm having... I'm also working it out with Fabryce and Bryan Hise, because I don't understand why I'm having this issue. Even with the 8' Spring I have in the rear shocks. My fender sits like 1 and 1/2 inches from the fender, If I uncompress the helper spring I'd just be right on the tire...

 

Very interesting to hear about the light KW front springs. I recall endless complaints about the KW systems being too stiff on the road. Now they overcompensated! Too bad you took it off already, I'd be curious how much real suspension travel you had when the suspension was loaded. On an M3 I had, I thought the car road like crap and figured out that I wasn't running on the springs at all - the car was basically riding on the bump stops! Had to trim the stops. I notice that the bump stops on the KW are really big.

Anybody considering those Moton street coils? They looked like a really good setup.

 

It really doesn't matter if the helper is uncompressed at full droop. Your spring rate is determined by the mains. My guess is your helpers are uncompressed due to the fact that your main springs are very soft and have a lot of compression. As a result, your spring perch has to be raised up (compressing the helper) to account for the compression of the main when loaded at static ride height. In other words, if you have soft mains you won't need helpers. Look at a stock GT3. It has very soft springs on the OEM coilovers and does not need helpers as a result. A 997 GT2RS has stiffer springs and requires helpers as a result. What are your rates and spring lengths? Are you running Eibachs ERS springs?

 

I spoke to Bryan Hise from JRZ USA, he made me feel better.

He says my Helpers springs are compressed during Droop because of my desired ride height and the length of the JRZ Shocks, which are shorter than stock / KW.

To be able to run my helper springs uncompressed I would have to lower my car some more, to more suitable track specs.

He said it doesn't matter if it's compressed or uncompressed the suspension still does the work as intended. So that's good.

My springs are 550 LBS front and 800 Rear, and I am running Eibachs ERS Springs.

5 Inch front and 8 Rear.

 

That's exactly correct. You are running your ride height quite high for those shocks and combined with a super soft 550lb rate your helper stays compressed. If you ran a stiffer spring and lowered your ride height, you would see the helper spring become uncompressed at full droop. Like I said in my previous post, your suspension is working properly despite this. I believe 700/800 or 800/900 would be a better rate. I've always found more of a "square" set up to perform better. Are your shocks remote canister?

 

Yes, I have the Remote Canisters.

I do have two extra Eibach Springs, 6'', but they're also 800 LB's.

So I'd be 800 / 800. Not sure if that would work.

 

If it were me, I'd throw the 800 on the front assuming you have the room to fit a 6" spring which you should. I used to run a 700lb 6" front and 800lb 7" rear. I also have a pair of 1100lb 5" fronts and 1200lb 6" rears. I really liked these on the street with the compression on the shocks run soft. They were a bit soft for track use however. I could send them to you if you'd like to try them. For strictly street though, the 800/800 will work fine. I would probably throw on a rear GT2 sway bar just to have some adjustability.

 

I am glad you posted this thread . I have not posted here in awhile but I also have the K3 with noselift .

As some might recall my Bilstein damptronics snapped on a simple speed bump at about 3 MPH puling into a parking garage . https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...s-garbage.html

So I wanted a new clean slate and opted for the KW . Much as you shared they are expensive but i love my car so I bought it . Once installed I decided to drive the car a bit and must say i love the noselift . From the beginning if i hit a slight dip in the road at a low speed the noise that i heard in the cabin sounded like someone threw a tray of dishes on the floor . This was typical at a speed bump or crossing a railroad track at low speed. With this loud crashing noise I had to have the car examined . I have had no bottoming out .

The installer checked all the settings and it all checked out . He sent photos of it to KW . They agreed it was installed correctly and offered to fix them.
It took 5 weeks for my 12K (install plus tax included) to be repaired .
The noise is gone .

The car seems to drive great .. so far .. but i am less than 300 miles on the repaired unit. I'll see how it goes with time .