GT2RS Intercoolers / Installed
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Thanks for Everyone's input.
If you would like to comment on the pulsing issue, please click here
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...hts-point.html
This is the thread for this issue. This issue was prevalent prior to the 997.2 GT2RS install.
If you would like to comment on the pulsing issue, please click here
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...hts-point.html
This is the thread for this issue. This issue was prevalent prior to the 997.2 GT2RS install.
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I think you just trim the inner lip.
reviving an old thread - i just intalled 2rs coolers on my turbo and was frowning when i saw this post as i noticed that the tabs were not cut and they appear to be able to slide over each over despite the thicker 2rs cores over the standard turbo ic's
i cut the tabs off and secured the ics with zip ties per other DIY's
could i have used the oem tabs to secure and fasten them????? what!
i cut the tabs off and secured the ics with zip ties per other DIY's
could i have used the oem tabs to secure and fasten them????? what!
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: DFW,TX
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I thought the same thing so I did mine a little different..
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...installed.html
This is probably what you were originally after..
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...installed.html
This is probably what you were originally after..
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From: Pleasantville!
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As another data point here...Agree, that if no add-ons/mods are needed...go for it.
I will offer that I tried to use existing tabs when I did mine. While it may work for some, and/or for a while. What I noticed is that when you remove the material in the clip, the latch is so thin, it loses most/all strength. When I tried that approach, most of the tabs broke during install or shortly after because there is not enough material left. Again, it may depend on original condition/fragility of the tabs when you start, but mine would just snap when attached...That is why I went with the large Zip Fasteners on mine, and in my DIY.
FYI...They are all still working flawlessly without issue, and none have broken to date (been a while too) for those that went that route. Also there is a lot more material holding the ducts together with that method, than by removing the material from the tabs.....
What is interesting, is that the people that do this, change the entire IC to a different model, cut away all of the edge/trim, and notch out the lips to accommodate the non-OEM ICs, and then are worried about cutting the tabs
As always...whatever works for everyone...go for it. And for those that ended up with the Zip Fasteners, just letting you know they are holding up very well! For those that were able to re-use the tabs without them breaking...hats off to you!
Happy motoring....
DC
I will offer that I tried to use existing tabs when I did mine. While it may work for some, and/or for a while. What I noticed is that when you remove the material in the clip, the latch is so thin, it loses most/all strength. When I tried that approach, most of the tabs broke during install or shortly after because there is not enough material left. Again, it may depend on original condition/fragility of the tabs when you start, but mine would just snap when attached...That is why I went with the large Zip Fasteners on mine, and in my DIY.
FYI...They are all still working flawlessly without issue, and none have broken to date (been a while too) for those that went that route. Also there is a lot more material holding the ducts together with that method, than by removing the material from the tabs.....
What is interesting, is that the people that do this, change the entire IC to a different model, cut away all of the edge/trim, and notch out the lips to accommodate the non-OEM ICs, and then are worried about cutting the tabs
As always...whatever works for everyone...go for it. And for those that ended up with the Zip Fasteners, just letting you know they are holding up very well! For those that were able to re-use the tabs without them breaking...hats off to you!
Happy motoring....
DC
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thanks for the note dc - without your diy i would have been lost trying to figure out how to get the coolers installed.
the drivers side took me 3 hours as i wanted to be very careful not to trim too much material away. you are right a stanley knife was the way to go. it slices the plastic like butter and is very precise.
i agree with your logic on the fastening. the 2rs cores are thicker in depth and i can imagine the tabs prying free when you are driving the car hard.
i did the ic's, new pre cat and post ca 02's and new air filter and thew on some brand new rear rotors. quite a lot of work for a weekend warrior haha
i am going to do some data logging to see if my iats drop with these in!
kind regards!
the drivers side took me 3 hours as i wanted to be very careful not to trim too much material away. you are right a stanley knife was the way to go. it slices the plastic like butter and is very precise.
i agree with your logic on the fastening. the 2rs cores are thicker in depth and i can imagine the tabs prying free when you are driving the car hard.
i did the ic's, new pre cat and post ca 02's and new air filter and thew on some brand new rear rotors. quite a lot of work for a weekend warrior haha
i am going to do some data logging to see if my iats drop with these in!
kind regards!
Also, the IC's work great. I ran 26+ times last year at a No Fly Zone...Most at or over 160 MPH 1/2 mile runs, and as long as I was moving the IATs stayed well below 100....most of the time they were just at about 12 degrees above air temps
Good luck, and enjoy your mods.
DC
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Had mine off 3 times since install. No breaking straps for me. It does take some force to get them to latch though. I trimmed the intercooler flange at the fold near the cooling fins to lose another 4-5 mm of height and this also dropped the ductwork to be flush with the end tanks.
Only actual correct way of doing this install would be to buy new duct's as Rock stated earlier.
Pressure check is a must either way. My leaked like hell after a few times to the road track. Turns out that my endtakes weren't just leaking but also the Cores themselves.
Congrates on the installs. They do perform well for their cost and suit most applications.
Only actual correct way of doing this install would be to buy new duct's as Rock stated earlier.
Pressure check is a must either way. My leaked like hell after a few times to the road track. Turns out that my endtakes weren't just leaking but also the Cores themselves.
Congrates on the installs. They do perform well for their cost and suit most applications.
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