My spun camshaft story
#31
02-18-2016, 07:04 AM
I'm shocked after reading all of the various owners with these issues, Porsche had/isn't doing anything about it. I realize the platform is old by now but it seems to be a pretty common problem. All of the cars are relatively low mileage from what I've seen. I'd consider this a major failure on an engine below 50K miles. With what I feel is a high rate of incidence (just imagine how many people have this problem and aren't on 6speed/rennlist) it's speaks very poorly about how Porsche has handled the issue. The dealerships should've reported it (which I'm sure some have) to Porsche NA and ideally some type of recall should've been performed. From cam replacements, to cam pinning to sensor and actuator replacements, it just seems like there is no finite fix to the problem. These are all just band aids, albeit some being small and others big, in the end they're all just band aids.
I love my car, I really do, but reading about this issue along with coolant pipe issues is pretty scary.
I love my car, I really do, but reading about this issue along with coolant pipe issues is pretty scary.
Last edited by NY6SPEEDER; 02-18-2016 at 07:07 AM.
#32
02-18-2016, 10:30 AM
I'm shocked after reading all of the various owners with these issues, Porsche had/isn't doing anything about it. I realize the platform is old by now but it seems to be a pretty common problem. All of the cars are relatively low mileage from what I've seen. I'd consider this a major failure on an engine below 50K miles. With what I feel is a high rate of incidence (just imagine how many people have this problem and aren't on 6speed/rennlist) it's speaks very poorly about how Porsche has handled the issue. The dealerships should've reported it (which I'm sure some have) to Porsche NA and ideally some type of recall should've been performed. From cam replacements, to cam pinning to sensor and actuator replacements, it just seems like there is no finite fix to the problem. These are all just band aids, albeit some being small and others big, in the end they're all just band aids.
I love my car, I really do, but reading about this issue along with coolant pipe issues is pretty scary.
I love my car, I really do, but reading about this issue along with coolant pipe issues is pretty scary.
I've followed the spun camshaft issue for 8 years on these forums and more often than not only seems to happen to cars which are tuned.
#33
02-18-2016, 11:17 AM
I would not worry. The coolant pipe issue was solved by using a different adhesive from 2008 I think. Even if yours does let go its quite a simple fix just make sure you stop as soon as it happens. You cannot miss it as there's a massive white plumb of smoke in your rear window lol.
I've followed the spun camshaft issue for 8 years on these forums and more often than not only seems to happen to cars which are tuned.
I've followed the spun camshaft issue for 8 years on these forums and more often than not only seems to happen to cars which are tuned.
As much as I want to drop a tune on this thing, the last thing I want to do is break something and end up with a $10K bill. I just got her so I'm still learning.
Last edited by NY6SPEEDER; 02-18-2016 at 12:26 PM.
#35
02-18-2016, 03:00 PM
As is usual, that piece of info isn't true. This is an up and coming failure, and the cam sleeve issue seems to be seen in the 07s mostly. There are plenty of bone stock cars that have it happen too. Not being tuned won't save you. If your number is up, it's up.
#36
02-18-2016, 03:27 PM
I had my cam replaced under warranty several yrs ago then we chased an ongoing issue for about a year ,which ended up having to do with the dealer not setting the cam timing correctly,it was off by 6 degree's .My shop told me that this is common when they take a shortcut & do it without pulling the motor & the 6 degrees is an acceptable tolerance for them.
#37
02-18-2016, 09:57 PM
How long have you owned a 997 turbo? Had mine from new since 2007 so do know a little bit albeit I'm defo no expert.
Whilst I recommend having a tune reliability in general is definitely affected adversely especially if its a bad tune pushing VTGs beyond their limits....ultimately ends in kaboom or the poor next owner picking up the pieces and spending on a rebuild.
#38
02-19-2016, 05:36 AM
#39
02-19-2016, 08:49 AM
The car had been in a couple shops before and it sat for months and some where in there someone crossed the jumper cables. Yep it can easily fry the DME. Not going to point fingers! And the other problem was the guy who helped me with the camshaft replacement had the cam gear off a few degrees. Car is fixed and thats what matters. Learned alot and will definitely own a 997 turbo in the future! mean while i'll be enjoying my junky old nissan gtr
As usual, thank you all in advance for the priceless feedback and knowledge. Some of you here, (obviously the vets), have paid the price of learning about this platform. I don't regret my recent purchase for a second but boy these things freak me out.
#40
02-19-2016, 10:22 AM
My 07 is bone stock and it happened to me. Thank God for CPO. I think I had around 32K miles on it when it happened. Dealer had the car for almost a month. I did get them to replace the plug for free since they had the car so long. The was back in November of 2012.
#41
02-19-2016, 10:45 AM
Yep. The guys who repair them around me see a mix of cars, mostly between 30-40k miles and mostly 07s. Some are tuned, most are stock. I would be more pissed if it happened with my car stock, lol.
There are a few nasty design issues that Porsche left for us. Best to keep 5-7k aside for when the coolant pipe failure occurs...not a bad idea to go ahead and pull the cams while the engine is out if you plan on keeping the car.
There are a few nasty design issues that Porsche left for us. Best to keep 5-7k aside for when the coolant pipe failure occurs...not a bad idea to go ahead and pull the cams while the engine is out if you plan on keeping the car.
#42
06-14-2016, 07:56 PM
do you by any chance have the part numbers of the solenoids?
I got the P0021 and it would come and go. I would clear it with my scanner and within a few hundred miles, it would pop again. It got progressively worse, to the point that it would be triggered with only about 5-10 miles of driving it.
My motor has about 27,000 miles and the cam actuator selenoids were still the original ones. I also noticed that my torque and power down low was a little sluggish, which is a symptom that the cam is getting stuck in the advanced position. At WOT, the car ran perfect.
I replaced the faulty one at bank 1. After I replaced bank 1 (really easy to get to - maybe a 5 minute job), the car ran considerably better down low. Much smoother and felt incredible. The engine light/error did not come back right away as usual...but within 300 miles of driving the car (spirited driving, mind you), the engine light came back, except this time, it was pointing to bank 2.
Well, I replaced # 2 - - I have about 300 miles now since then, and the problem hasn't come back yet. The car still runs great and no engine light yet.
I feel confident this was the problem in my case. These parts wear out. If you take a close look at these actuators, they are driven by a huge magnet that opens and closes and regulates the amount of oil flow. The are constantly working on and off and on and off...they can wear out. I think in my case, bank 1 was considerably more worn than 2...and when 1 was working great, then the 2 was not able to keep up.
Each of those cam actuator selenoids are about US$ 250-300 per side. It is worth replacing them before going through the trouble of bringing down the motor. Sometimes, replacing the oil alone can clear any debris that could get stuck in there. Sometimes, that is not enough and those puppies can get dirty dirty...(I don't think there is any way of cleaning them). I would replace these before replacing sensors or other items.
Hope this insight helps someone.
Angel
My motor has about 27,000 miles and the cam actuator selenoids were still the original ones. I also noticed that my torque and power down low was a little sluggish, which is a symptom that the cam is getting stuck in the advanced position. At WOT, the car ran perfect.
I replaced the faulty one at bank 1. After I replaced bank 1 (really easy to get to - maybe a 5 minute job), the car ran considerably better down low. Much smoother and felt incredible. The engine light/error did not come back right away as usual...but within 300 miles of driving the car (spirited driving, mind you), the engine light came back, except this time, it was pointing to bank 2.
Well, I replaced # 2 - - I have about 300 miles now since then, and the problem hasn't come back yet. The car still runs great and no engine light yet.
I feel confident this was the problem in my case. These parts wear out. If you take a close look at these actuators, they are driven by a huge magnet that opens and closes and regulates the amount of oil flow. The are constantly working on and off and on and off...they can wear out. I think in my case, bank 1 was considerably more worn than 2...and when 1 was working great, then the 2 was not able to keep up.
Each of those cam actuator selenoids are about US$ 250-300 per side. It is worth replacing them before going through the trouble of bringing down the motor. Sometimes, replacing the oil alone can clear any debris that could get stuck in there. Sometimes, that is not enough and those puppies can get dirty dirty...(I don't think there is any way of cleaning them). I would replace these before replacing sensors or other items.
Hope this insight helps someone.
Angel
#43
06-20-2016, 03:39 PM
The part number is: 997 105 30 373 and it is referred to as HYDRAULIC VALVE
You will also need an oring seal: 996 105 90 305 referred to as CAMSHAFT PHASING ORING SEAL.
You will also need an oring seal: 996 105 90 305 referred to as CAMSHAFT PHASING ORING SEAL.
#44
08-01-2018, 03:01 PM
Spun cam shaft...my story!
Hi All,
I bought my 2007 997.1 turbo in October of 2017 with 30,000 miles on it and in excellent condition. I had a PPI done by my Porsche mechanic and the car was in near perfect shape. In May, 2018, I got the P0021 indicating an issue with timing on bank 2. The car has never been tracked. The car is under an extended warranty. The dealer first thought it was the cam shaft actuator, but after a bit more research determined the can shaft had spun. Under warranty a new cam shaft was ordered. While Porsche has redesigned these cams, their solution was simply more torque on the sleeve. We checked with Cantrell Motorsports and MAXRPM Motorsports in our area...both said the only way to keep the cam sleeves from moving is to have them "pinned". So, we are now pinning both the new cam, and the one from bank 1. I am having new cam sensors and new cam actuators added to both sides. With the engine out, I am having the coolant fittings welded (using BBI fittings kit) and added the Sharkwerks kit too. We are also replacing clutch disk, TO bearing, water pump, hoses, belt, fuel filter, plugs, coils, and anything rubber that is hard to reach with engine in car. Hope this is helpful.
I bought my 2007 997.1 turbo in October of 2017 with 30,000 miles on it and in excellent condition. I had a PPI done by my Porsche mechanic and the car was in near perfect shape. In May, 2018, I got the P0021 indicating an issue with timing on bank 2. The car has never been tracked. The car is under an extended warranty. The dealer first thought it was the cam shaft actuator, but after a bit more research determined the can shaft had spun. Under warranty a new cam shaft was ordered. While Porsche has redesigned these cams, their solution was simply more torque on the sleeve. We checked with Cantrell Motorsports and MAXRPM Motorsports in our area...both said the only way to keep the cam sleeves from moving is to have them "pinned". So, we are now pinning both the new cam, and the one from bank 1. I am having new cam sensors and new cam actuators added to both sides. With the engine out, I am having the coolant fittings welded (using BBI fittings kit) and added the Sharkwerks kit too. We are also replacing clutch disk, TO bearing, water pump, hoses, belt, fuel filter, plugs, coils, and anything rubber that is hard to reach with engine in car. Hope this is helpful.
#45
08-02-2018, 02:56 PM
Hi All,
I bought my 2007 997.1 turbo in October of 2017 with 30,000 miles on it and in excellent condition. I had a PPI done by my Porsche mechanic and the car was in near perfect shape. In May, 2018, I got the P0021 indicating an issue with timing on bank 2. The car has never been tracked. The car is under an extended warranty. The dealer first thought it was the cam shaft actuator, but after a bit more research determined the can shaft had spun. Under warranty a new cam shaft was ordered. While Porsche has redesigned these cams, their solution was simply more torque on the sleeve. We checked with Cantrell Motorsports and MAXRPM Motorsports in our area...both said the only way to keep the cam sleeves from moving is to have them "pinned". So, we are now pinning both the new cam, and the one from bank 1. I am having new cam sensors and new cam actuators added to both sides. With the engine out, I am having the coolant fittings welded (using BBI fittings kit) and added the Sharkwerks kit too. We are also replacing clutch disk, TO bearing, water pump, hoses, belt, fuel filter, plugs, coils, and anything rubber that is hard to reach with engine in car. Hope this is helpful.
I bought my 2007 997.1 turbo in October of 2017 with 30,000 miles on it and in excellent condition. I had a PPI done by my Porsche mechanic and the car was in near perfect shape. In May, 2018, I got the P0021 indicating an issue with timing on bank 2. The car has never been tracked. The car is under an extended warranty. The dealer first thought it was the cam shaft actuator, but after a bit more research determined the can shaft had spun. Under warranty a new cam shaft was ordered. While Porsche has redesigned these cams, their solution was simply more torque on the sleeve. We checked with Cantrell Motorsports and MAXRPM Motorsports in our area...both said the only way to keep the cam sleeves from moving is to have them "pinned". So, we are now pinning both the new cam, and the one from bank 1. I am having new cam sensors and new cam actuators added to both sides. With the engine out, I am having the coolant fittings welded (using BBI fittings kit) and added the Sharkwerks kit too. We are also replacing clutch disk, TO bearing, water pump, hoses, belt, fuel filter, plugs, coils, and anything rubber that is hard to reach with engine in car. Hope this is helpful.