Hello guys,

Would like your input – sorry for the long thread…

I’m coming to you from the Gallardo section...my previous: a 2007 E-GearGallardo. Had a few mods and it really ran well - never gave me any issuesbesides the goofy AC module going out and then needing to replace the transmissionclutch...clutch swap done by a friend and I; not too bad of a job - easier thanmy C6Z06. Trust me, it may sound crazy, but it is.

I had my .2 TTS for a while; never did anything to it, besides regular maintenanceand just drove it. The Gallardo is gone(was given a great offer and sold it), the warranty is over on the P-car so I recentlybegan fooling with it. I flashed in a tune,slapped in a BMC filter and will be adding an EP exhaust and Y-pipe later thisweek. Allow me to ask the following to you tuned/modded.2 TTS owners:

a) It is me, or does it seem that these cars are fasterwhen drag racing without LC? I askedbecause since the flashed tune, it appears that LC is almost useless. It nowleaves out of the hole very violent; I can feel the front tires fighting forgrip and thus causing the nannies to kick in even when TC is off. To me, it feels that it goes faster by simplyfoot-braking to 2500 to 3000 RPM’s and then just flooring it. Anyone with similar experience - yourthoughts?

- Regarding tires: yes, I’ve lowered tires psi, and yes, Ihave the stock BS tires...just purchased ALL new 3mons back. I did so because I like how they performoverall and DD duties. Had the R888 Toyoson the Lambo and I was not too crazy with all the tire noise and very shortlife. My TTS seems to like tire psi 38rearand 34front. To me, it gives me a goodbalance for daily drive and handling…not sure about drag racing though, or stoplights scrimmages. BTW, my TTS stock ran10.80’s stock back in the day; I have not been to the track in a while with hersince it is mainly my DD car. If I everfeel the need to put the smack down, I usually pull out the C6Z Vette – it runs9.10’s @ over 150 MPH – NO, it is NOT stock.

b) The PDK Trans – I like the smoothness. Call me crazy,but it seems smoother since I added the tune. Are you guys seeing/feeling the same? I mean, this car seems a lot more civilized than the Lambo ever was evenafter mods. My wife often tells me TTS makesa little dizzy from the power push; I don’t feel it much from behind the wheel,but I do see headlights disappear…so I guess something is happening and thusher little dizziness. Is this car thatsmoothly quick/fast that it deceives you?

Thank you in advance for all your inputs and suggestions.

E-Gear

 

One suggestion for you is to remove the BMC filter and put a ckean stock one back in. BMC does absolutely nothing, but risks oiling (read ruining) your MAFs and letting more trash into your engine.

FYI...

DC

 

Hello DC,

Thanks for the suggestion brotha.

FYI, I had the BMC unit in there for a while and never had any issues. At the beginning I allowed it to sit on a towel overnight prior to install. Whenever I wash it, I re-oil lightly, but enough to treat the cotton elements but not too much as to where it can cause some issues. I've followed this practice for years with all my aftermarket filters on various applications and never ever suffered any issues.

Any inputs/thoughts regarding my questions in the original post above?

Thanks,
E-Gear

 

I have heard this same thing from the mechanic at my dealer (which I would assume) and two other very well known Porsche tuners.

 

I put in the BMC and a year later both my MAF's were faulty. I was able to clean them two times before buying new ones.


Currently i have the stock filter. However I will need to wait another 7 years to see if the new MAF's last longer with the stock filter then the BMC.

 

Trash that bmc. It WILL kill your Mafs.

Get some maf cleaner and clean your mafs. Then enjoy what your car SHOULD have felt like.

Oiled filters and these mafs dont mix.

 

It sounds to me that you guys may be over oiling your filters. This is how I do it:
1) wash media with soap & water - then rinse
2) dry media with hairdryer, or allow it to fully dry overnight
3) lightly spray oil on intake [front] face of media. As you do so, don't overlay spray; spray down to media from one end to the next.
4) place media down flat on a cloth towel or paper towel in the sun if possible or let it sit a few hours - overnight is best. When I clean mine units, I usually do so Saturday night and re-install Sunday afternoon...ready for the work week.
5) before re-installing unit, take clean sheet of paper towel and run throught each of the media cavities on both sides catching any would be extra oil - if oiled correctly, paper will be fairly oil free.
6) that's it! Re-install and enjoy. As stated above, I never had any issues with BMC, K&N, Halltech and any other washable filter medias...I simply follow the simple steps outlined above and drive.

Hope this helps!

Okay, since we now have the filter issue covered - I hope, any inputs/thoughts on the questions [original thread] above?

Thanks,
E-Gear

 

Regarding the above, not knowing what tune you have and how much additional HP & TQ it generates, my take is


a) I still launch better w/ LC at the drag strip. I never tried foot braking but LC definitely feels faster than stop light acceleration


b) I had MPSS and currently have MPS2 (dealer mounted them in an emergency as I didn't want to wait for MPSS to be ordered). I definitely will be going back to MPSS when the MPS2 are done


c) PDK felt/performed the same before and after tune. Didn't notice a difference


Your 'vette seems like a beast! Is it solely a track/drag car or could it serve DD duties? I find the 997.2 TTS to be the 'jack-of-all-trades', super car traits without super car looks/attention coupled with DD ability even with bolt-ons!


FWIW my indie is also a fan of properly treated BMC filters, I run a stock filter though as I saw no reason to replace a perfectly functioning piece.

 

There are no MAFs on the 997.2 turbos by the way. You are fine with the BMC


LC is definitely faster than leaving the line without it. Nannies should not be kicking on with it disabled. What it might be is the trans short shifting because you have no traction on OEM tires. There was a thread about it that I will look for

 

Thank you much for the feedbacks.

I have a Protomotive tune from Todd K. The car runs hard - love the fact that I can datalog, send him results via email and he then sends back fresh adjustments. I have not dyno car - hard to find AWD dynos around these parts. I have scanning tools purchased for my other vehicles and monitor paremeters such as AFR, AIT, timing, Fueling and so on. All looks good thus far. In terms of velocity measures, I borrow my buddy's Vbox and gauge.

My second tune changed things for the better...the first tune was geared for no other mods. Now with second tune, I've noticed a change in the car right off idle. However though, my current [2nd] tune is dialed for exhaust and new/tighter gapped Bosh FR6NPP 332 plugs and Y-pipe - I'm installing all items towards end of this week. Todd mentioned that things will get even peppier once these items are implemented...we'll see.


Yes, the Vette is a monster. It runs on E85, high compression 440cid builtmotor, all bolt-ons including a small 100HP shot of NOS. It can be driven dailyas long as the roads are dry. It is a very brute car compared to the TTS evenwhen it was stock. The TTS is definitely a better DD car that can sit next to mostexotics and not draw hardly any attention. That is one of the worst things Ihated about the Gallardo - no matter where I went, it drew lots ofattention...I don’t care for attention and I was aware of this prior to thepurchase, but wasn’t going to let that stop me from purchasing something Ialways wanted. Would I do it again? YES!

Thanks,
E-Gear

 

Hello Chris,

You are correct, there is no MAF sensors on these TTS; I think the folks above may have meant the MAP sensor which if it ever happens to fail, it is only a $50 piece and super easy to replace.

LC is faster when traction is available. Now that it is getting cooler out, things seem to be little more dicey with cooler surfaces.

Maybe you are correct, the PDK could be short shifting due to lack of grip. Sometimes I have to literally hang on tight and over correct here and there with both hands as the car fights for grip.

I started experimenting without LC and found that I can simply brake-torque to ~3K's and floor it! It may not be as violent as with LC, but it does not short shifting or lose grip; I can assume it is quicker...maybe is in my head. My TTS can launch pretty aggressively w/o LC virtually all day long on stock BS tires. The Vette can't, it needs DR's or Slicks. At the track however, leaving the vett can leave at around 5.5rpms on NOS and cut between 1.28's and 1.30's 60' times. Wouldn't be something if these TTS' could do that? It would be insane!

I'll look for that thread - I guess I am not alone on this...

Thanks,
E-Gear

 

You bet! And I do not have a .2 or PDK, so not much help with those questions. I did note the reference to the Y-Pipe. From all I have read, that is a big $$ pit for no gain. You can search and read about it all over. Appears that the inlet/Y/boost pipe is not restrictive at all for the engines, and changing it will add nothing (except lighten your wallet for you). Just an FYI...Your car, your money, your decision

Good luck,
DC

 

The car is optimized to launch with a little more than the factory 530 HP on the factory tires. Any more than that you are going to have problems. And the only way you will know is to get a vBox. Don't rely on the seat of your pants.

Bone stock I could cut 0-60's in the 2.8 range. The car was equipped with MPSS and made 501/536 all wheel HP/TQ on a Mustang dyno. So it was strong out of the box. With a GIAC tune and IPD plenum, I was cutting 2.6's. But then after installing intercoolers and exhaust with a GIAC remap, the car would just spin using LC and 0-60's were in the low 3's. Very frustrating until I realized that I was messing with a car that was dialed in from the factory.

So in your case, yes maybe you are getting too much spin using LC and your added power and regular tires.

Now I have r888's. Yes they hum but I don't care. I've cut 2.4 second 0-60's and will always be under 3 sec even in the rain. Yes rain. At a recent airstrip event I out-launched a Porsche 918 up to 100mph.

Bottom line you need to make corresponding changes with your tires to get the level of grip to match the additional power.

 

Mr. Longboarder,

Cool deal, thank you much for all your inputs

What you described makes perfect sense. I knew something seemed a little off - my butt dyno is not the most accurate, but accurate enough to know something was different. Perhaps that is why I felt that it was quicker to footbrake to 3K and launch vs using LC. Like you, I was cutting 2.7's all day long with stock tune - now with the new stage II tune, the best I can get is 3.2's to 3.3's. Wow, aren't we spoiled...low 3's is not slow, but mid to low 2's is better

I mentioned my gut feelings to [tuner] Todd K and he thought I was crazy; stating that there is no way I'm going backwards - powerwise. He asked me to scan and once he looked at my datalogs, he assured me that all is well (Tuned paramenters, PDK shifts and so on) and that I needed to get stickier tires. The problem is, I just installed BRAND NEW stock sized Bridgestones tires about 4mons back

So...I guess things are going to get even worse once I do my exhaust install and other little goodies later on this week. No current plans for IC install, but I better make up my mind soon since the car is coming apart in 3 days and that would be the time to do IC's.

So let me ask, are there any other tire options for these cars besides the Toyos vs my current BS in terms of better grip, size and low tire noise? I had toyos in the Gallardo and those ****'s drove me nuts due to all the tire noise, but they sure gripped though...the noise worsen as tires wore down.

Thank you in advance for ALL your help

E-Gear

 

+1 Don't waste your money here.