I'm going to be installing these injectors this week. I've got Injectors and the little caps that come with them.

Can anyone tell what to expect as far as wiring goes? Also, do I need an upgraded fuel rail or is OEM alright?

Any pics or DIY? I'll try to put one together if I can figure it all out.

Thanks,

 

IIRC, they're plug and play.

OEM fuel rail needn't be upgraded until you go for major power and a fully custom fuel system. Rix did them DIY and did a thread on here which I think showed all he did.

 

Pretty simple install, except for the rear passenger injector closest to the oil tank. Put the wiring on this one first and the turn the injector slightly to angle the wiring away from the oil tank.

Other than that - pretty simple.

 

Do not try to do this without dropping the engine.

 

How about lowering the engine?

 

I've dropped engines, opened them up, honed cylinders, file fit rings, drilled for main studs, installed head studs one at a time without actually removing the head, opened transmissions and replaced main shafts, shimmed & set gear lash, and I've even installed injectors without dropping the engine in a 997 Turbo.

By far the worst thing I ever did was install injectors in a 997 turbo without dropping the engine. You can lower it as far as possible, it doesn't really help.

 

Good info rix! Useful information as always.

I found lower the engine really helps with certain applications. I installed some 1000 injectors. Engine was out at this time.

 

The biggest problem with doing this is the auxiliary air pump on the drivers side (towards the front of the car). You have to pull the fuel filter, everything else in that general vicinity, as well as a air recirculation pipe that is really tricky to disconnect. If you can jerk off a hamster one handed (upside down) whilst blindfolded you'll find it pretty easy. Beyond that you really have to bend and contort various lines/parts/etc beyond reasonable comfort levels to remove the parts necessary to even get to the air pump.

You will find that the best technique is to turn around with your butt towards the car. Reach backwards so that you can bend your arm downwards to get to things. If this sounds like a position you would like to assume for hours at a time while trying to disassemble everything, you'll be fine.

If that wasn't bad enough, when you get to the passenger side of the car you have to take the oil pipe off the oil tank. I ended up buying a crowfoot adapter and using it with a 3 foot long 1/2" extension bar that made it possible to get it off, but it was a giant pain in the ***.

It took me 3 weeks of cussing to do it. Honestly I think you're better off buying or borrowing a refrigerant recovery machine and learning to drop the engine yourself. There are definitely better mechanics out there than me, but the reward factor just isn't there on this job.

 

rix, you get so graphic when you explain things! Do you happen to have this on video?


I'm just giving you a hard time.


I'll take your word on this one!

 

can't you just remove the compressor with the lines attached and lay it outside the bumper like we do on the 996tt?

 

That's how we did my car.

 

If I did, I would never release it.

 

Man Rix, you are scaring me. I figured it was a pretty simple job by removing the bumper and going in from the side. I guess not.

 

Nothing about it is remotely easy. Seriously, you don't want to do it. Pay somebody to do it. It's going to cost almost as much as dropping the motor, so you might just go ahead and do that and do some maintenance and preventative stuff while you have it out.