When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have not heard about screw in fittings, though you would have to cut threads in the manifolds where they are placed to match the threads on the pipes. I have a call into my P-Car dealer to see what they have to say.
They may mean "knurled" or otherwise modified fittings where the surface has had a patterned machined into it to "grab" the glue.
It could also mean they are cutting threads.
Ed
That's what came to my mind, but maybe... maybe they will order a new manifold or even thread mine, my dealer has one of the best machines in the world. they restored my Turbo wheels back like it was back in '07.
Originally Posted by mrmaass
I read a thread years ago in the 996T forum where this was discussed. One member was going to try to get them made but of course the receiving end needed to be have threads cut as well as Ed said and it turned out to be far more work and expense than welding or pinning and the idea never went anywhere.
Doing some searches since this came up here and I haven't found them anywhere online either.
I saw was it in rennilst yesterday, but I too cannot seem to find it. the guy though made them by himself and other members thought of it as an overkill... which I honestly do not see it as that since this issue hasn't had a permanent fix.
Originally Posted by supra.z06
Very informative thread, thanks for sharing.
My 08TT6MT is seeping coolant, I’m just waiting for my ## at jbe so I can do rods, studs and the whole pkg in one shot.
Yup I've ordering the parts as they go over the engine. might just do it once and get over with it, I do not want to see my engine out of the car for this decade.
That's all that is needed. even though I asked the technician and he said there is no need to order any more parts... what surprised me none of the sharkwerks coolant fix kit is required for the failure I had... also these parts does not look to have a screw in type. were these parts newly introduced or have had a revision? anyone with more info can chime in?
99710603972 - pipe manifold - is your's damaged. If not, unless someone else knows something I don't you do NOT need to replace this part 99951265109 - hose clamp 99970746840 - T-stat gasket 99711509173 - another manifold - this one holds up the generator - why are they ordering you these castings? Unless they were destroyed they should be fine, but it looks like they are going with the replace to get the fittings already glued in 99710643201 - small heater hose near the back of the engine 99710607677 - cooling hose from the turbo (metal pipe with small rubber piece which bursts) - definitely a must to replace at this age. 99710723977 - vent line from the turbo (1-3) to the top of the engine 99710724076 - vent line from the turbo (4-6) to the top of the engine 99970738740 - O ring (top of the oil reservoir)
So what they are doing is buying the two manifolds with the pipes already glued in from the manufacturer. They are also replacing a very few pieces of rubber and 3 of 4 pipes going to the two turbos along with a small heater hose at the back of the engine.
That will leave you with:
3 plastic elbows that will fail eventually
3 glued fittings which may or may not leak at some point (off the front water manifold where the WP & T-Stat are
0 fittings pinned - if the old glue never lets go and the new glue doesn't fail this may be a non issue, but why not do it to make sure you will never have a catastrophic failure
A bunch of rubber hoses and O rings all over the engine for coolant and oil that may fail at some point
When I dropped my engine I had a $4K parts list which was probably overkill (yet missed some parts like chain guide blades) but I am keeping the car until either I or it is dust so....
This doesn't mean you have to do all of that, but if you are going to keep the car, and the engine is out, why not get some of those items addressed? Pinning the cams and swapping in a GT2 clutch slave aren't 100% necessary, but any rubber or o ring I couldn't get to with the engine in place was a must for me.
I've attached my engine out parts list for you to peruse. You should be able to see some of the parts your dealer lists on it. I did not buy new manifolds or pipes, I just heated up/removed/cleaned and re-glued/pinned the existing ones.
99710603972 - pipe manifold - is your's damaged. If not, unless someone else knows something I don't you do NOT need to replace this part 99951265109 - hose clamp 99970746840 - T-stat gasket 99711509173 - another manifold - this one holds up the generator - why are they ordering you these castings? Unless they were destroyed they should be fine, but it looks like they are going with the replace to get the fittings already glued in 99710643201 - small heater hose near the back of the engine 99710607677 - cooling hose from the turbo (metal pipe with small rubber piece which bursts) - definitely a must to replace at this age. 99710723977 - vent line from the turbo (1-3) to the top of the engine 99710724076 - vent line from the turbo (4-6) to the top of the engine 99970738740 - O ring (top of the oil reservoir)
So what they are doing is buying the two manifolds with the pipes already glued in from the manufacturer. They are also replacing a very few pieces of rubber and 3 of 4 pipes going to the two turbos along with a small heater hose at the back of the engine.
That will leave you with:
3 plastic elbows that will fail eventually
3 glued fittings which may or may not leak at some point (off the front water manifold where the WP & T-Stat are
0 fittings pinned - if the old glue never lets go and the new glue doesn't fail this may be a non issue, but why not do it to make sure you will never have a catastrophic failure
A bunch of rubber hoses and O rings all over the engine for coolant and oil that may fail at some point
When I dropped my engine I had a $4K parts list which was probably overkill (yet missed some parts like chain guide blades) but I am keeping the car until either I or it is dust so....
This doesn't mean you have to do all of that, but if you are going to keep the car, and the engine is out, why not get some of those items addressed? Pinning the cams and swapping in a GT2 clutch slave aren't 100% necessary, but any rubber or o ring I couldn't get to with the engine in place was a must for me.
I've attached my engine out parts list for you to peruse. You should be able to see some of the parts your dealer lists on it. I did not buy new manifolds or pipes, I just heated up/removed/cleaned and re-glued/pinned the existing ones.
Ed
This is what the shop I went to tried to pull - they wanted to replace parts (99710603972) with the same factory parts that have the glued in fittings instead of cleaning/knurling the fittings and re-gluing them and then pinning them in place. If they insist on replacing the parts make sure they drill + tap + pin the new ones so you have a permanent fix. You should replace all the plastic elbows with the Sharkwerks elbows. The factory pieces are a known weak spot. Definitely have your mechanic watch this video so he knows what he needs to do. Then you won't be in my shoes having to go back a second time.
99710603972 - pipe manifold - is your's damaged. If not, unless someone else knows something I don't you do NOT need to replace this part 99951265109 - hose clamp 99970746840 - T-stat gasket 99711509173 - another manifold - this one holds up the generator - why are they ordering you these castings? Unless they were destroyed they should be fine, but it looks like they are going with the replace to get the fittings already glued in 99710643201 - small heater hose near the back of the engine 99710607677 - cooling hose from the turbo (metal pipe with small rubber piece which bursts) - definitely a must to replace at this age. 99710723977 - vent line from the turbo (1-3) to the top of the engine 99710724076 - vent line from the turbo (4-6) to the top of the engine 99970738740 - O ring (top of the oil reservoir)
So what they are doing is buying the two manifolds with the pipes already glued in from the manufacturer. They are also replacing a very few pieces of rubber and 3 of 4 pipes going to the two turbos along with a small heater hose at the back of the engine.
That will leave you with:
3 plastic elbows that will fail eventually
3 glued fittings which may or may not leak at some point (off the front water manifold where the WP & T-Stat are
0 fittings pinned - if the old glue never lets go and the new glue doesn't fail this may be a non issue, but why not do it to make sure you will never have a catastrophic failure
A bunch of rubber hoses and O rings all over the engine for coolant and oil that may fail at some point
When I dropped my engine I had a $4K parts list which was probably overkill (yet missed some parts like chain guide blades) but I am keeping the car until either I or it is dust so....
This doesn't mean you have to do all of that, but if you are going to keep the car, and the engine is out, why not get some of those items addressed? Pinning the cams and swapping in a GT2 clutch slave aren't 100% necessary, but any rubber or o ring I couldn't get to with the engine in place was a must for me.
I've attached my engine out parts list for you to peruse. You should be able to see some of the parts your dealer lists on it. I did not buy new manifolds or pipes, I just heated up/removed/cleaned and re-glued/pinned the existing ones.
Ed
Apparently those are just the parts that they do not have already in stock, so they had to be ordered from Germany.
Problem is everything that need to be changed when dropping the engine is available except for 997-107-239-77
It has been 2 weeks now, I have ordered from France and refunded and Pelican parts and refunded too even though those two places showed item in stock or ships within couple of days.
It looks like the result now is to try and weld the vent line and check pressure test it to see it works? I'm not sure how to go forward as this part was last supplied back in July 2019.
The biggest problem is the failure was actually from 997-107-239-77-OEM... everything else was alright except for this part... that is no where available
not sure yet. I have coolant leak, just need to remove the engine to see what is leaking, and replace everything else that is known to fail. Right now, sourcing parts little by little
I can confirm the part is no where to be found and is BO in US/UK/EU and almost everywhere else.
Only thing that was damaged in my car was 1-3 vent line, everything else looks operational and fine yet I'm gonna go ahead and replace them. most parts for '07 engine is superseded so hopefully I won't see this issue anytime soon.
Have you seen the failed line? I am curious since as a vent line there isn't much going on there. The coolant lines for sure are a weak spot. One of them was also not available so I repaired my own:
You can see the rubber section of Cyl 1-3 Turbo coolant feed line has been replaced.
If it's the rubber section of the vent line you may be able to do the same and slice it off and clamp on a similar diameter and bent hose from a local parts store.
If it's the connection to the turbo then I am not sure what your options would be.
I am curious since as a vent line there isn't much going on there. The coolant lines for sure are a weak spot. One of them was also not available so I repaired my own:
You can see the rubber section of Cyl 1-3 Turbo coolant feed line has been replaced.
If it's the rubber section of the vent line you may be able to do the same and slice it off and clamp on a similar diameter and bent hose from a local parts store.
If it's the connection to the turbo then I am not sure what your options would be.
Ed
I have not seen it.
I have seen the engine down though. As per what the technician told me the failure is with something that needs welding so I assume it is either the connection or the metal line itself.
Never heard of rubber welding, it could be cut and clamped as you suggested or pinned perhaps.
I'm going to wait until I can have the part in hand to do any work.
Does anyone know what OEM part # does the sharkwerk replaces?
I'm looking to see if porsche has moved back to metal tubes in the superseded parts like 996.
