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We blocked off the new fuel system to see if it was related to the check valves or plumbing, problem is still there. I'm glad it doesn't seem to be related to the new fuel system.
I also purchased a new coolant temp sensor (19$), will try and have it installed today, but I doubt it will solve my problem as the syvecs guage and car guage are matching, but I guess 19$ wont hurt anyone.
I am leaning more towards the issue being software related now. My tuner is back in town end of the week, will have him look at it again.
Cranking Amps?:
A friend of mine also mentioned that my battery cranking amps may too low (680A?) he recommended that I use a battery with 800+ cranking Amps? Can someone on here confirm if this could be an issue? Not looking to purchase a new battery when I just purchased one last month. (Battery pic attached)
Note: We checked battery voltage during a bad crank and the voltage was perfect. Start 12.5, during crank 11.5, after start 13.5
Takes more than the proper RPMs to get the engine to run.
An engine can spin all day at whatever RPMs the starter spins the engine but if the voltage level to the coils is insufficient the collapsing field when the voltage is removed is not enough to generate a spark.
In short the engine electrics, coils in this case, require sufficient voltage in order to work. Years ago my info was the voltage level was in the 9V area. Below 9V (or in that region) forget about the engine starting. I don't know if modern coils have a lower or higher or the same voltage requirement.
Glad you are narrowing it down. Maybe try with a booster on before getting a new battery. Then when the tuner gets back you can tell him you have tried everything else.
I have a customer running S6+ on a 997 turbo tiptronic with id1700x injectors running on E85.
We were doing some fault tracing and the car ran great on stock ECU calibrated for id1000s on E85. (We only tested idle)
You could try this also just to check start-up time.
If you want, you can send me your map and I will compare it to the one we are running. I can the merge the maps and give you a proposal based on what we are running.
I managed to change the coolant sensor which definitely was not as easy as I thought, the problem is still there.
I am nearly running out of hardware troubleshooting, So I would like to cancel out if it is a software issue.
I wanted to ask if there is any harm in installing my stock ECU and starting/idling the car on my 850CC injector map? The map was made for my previous A3071 turbo set up. My car currently has a 4Bar map sensor
Looking forward to hearing from you guys soon, would really like to sort this out before the weather cools down.
On a side note, For those running a flex fuel sensor where did you mount it on the fuel line?
Connect stock MAP-sensor into the harness and try. You dont need to install it in the boost pipe since you will have same pressure (more or less) on both sides. Also IAT will be more or less the same.
Do you still have the MAFs connected? That will further help with the starting. It might start w/o the MAFs also and will then use modeled air flow.
Sure you can why not? You're just limited how much power you can make with them but that doesn't matter if you'll just idle it and test startup.
Thanks for the input, I am planning on swapping the ECU in the next coming days.
Originally Posted by fyrken
Connect stock MAP-sensor into the harness and try. You dont need to install it in the boost pipe since you will have same pressure (more or less) on both sides. Also IAT will be more or less the same.
Do you still have the MAFs connected? That will further help with the starting. It might start w/o the MAFs also and will then use modeled air flow.
//E
Unfortunately I couldn't find my stock MAP sensor, I can borrow one off my friends car if it's needed, I am running an AMS Y-pipe so it would be easy to swap. My current and old set up are mafless so the stock ECU is also a mafless tune.
I don't know what's considered normal fuel pressure bleed off time but I hold fuel pressure for several days. It does drop slightly from a idle pressure of 3.2bar but holds for several days to over a week or so easy..
Regarding a battery, I've had a lightweight 21lb Braile AGM battery in my car for the last 4 years. Best battery I've ever had. Zero issue with cranking but my engine fires right up so it never needs to crank for longer than a second or so.
Last edited by pwdrhound; Sep 15, 2017 at 09:05 PM.
Car wouldn't turn over on the stock ECU with the 850cc map, I'm thinking a lot of changes where made to the engine that I would have needed a retune to get it to start on the old map.
My tuner has looked over everything and made several adjustments with no positive feedback, we decided it's best to finally check the injectors.
Using a Borescope we went through the intake manifold and fed the camera to each cylinder and Viola guess what? Cylinder 2 injector was leaking (Video Below during priming).
Right now I am dropping the engine to remove the injectors and have them tested, The local ID dealer was awesome enough to loan me a set of ID1700x to reduce the down time even though I haven't purchased from them.
My builder told me he had put the 2nd gen ID1700 which should be the ID1700X, will find out soon if that is correct.
I'm hoping the leaking injector is the main source of my problem. Will update again once the engine is back in.
Would appreicate the input from those running flex fuel, are you using the OEM fuel filters or after market? Also where did you guys mount the flex fuel sensor?
Dropped the engine, pulled out the injectors, they were ID1700X. Atleast we got to visually inspect everything again, it got pretty late so decided to call it a night. Will probably have a more detailed look on everything tommorow before putting the engine back in.
Planning on doing the following before install:
Test the replacement injectors and make sure all is okay
Replace the 2 fuel filters with OEM ones (I am currently running OEM)
It's not clear if my FPR is rated at 5 Bar or if its a modified 3.8 Bar, I'm thinking of keeping it as is, and if my problem is still there to swap it out later, but will check if it is available locally.
Do an Engine Oil change.
Replace spark plugs as I am sure they would be fouled.
I noticed my breather filter was releasing some oil and was flowing downwards, so will extend it more towards the front to avoid this issue, or at least make cleaning more accessible.
Would appreciate if anyone can add on the things that I should consider changing or inspecting while the engine is out.
Hoping to have the engine back in tomorrow evening with the start up issues out the way.
i run weldon aftermarket stainless steel filters on the feed line with removable elements for cleaning. the e85 analyzer is installed on the return line . and fwiw you dont have to drop the motor to change inj. its a pain but can be done
Thanks for the input, I will have a look tomorrow on what filters are available, If I do find something that would work more effectively I might give it a try. Do you happen to have a part number or link?
My Flex sensor is on the return as well, you might be able to see it near the intake manifold, just wanted to make sure that others run it on the return as well.
Given that my Tech is only available to work on my car after hours (7:00PM onwards). I figured dropping the engine takes 2 hours, so it was the quicker option imo, plus it allows me to inspect everything once more to make sure everything is okay.
