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The hose connection has a rib on the inside that needs to sit in the groove of the throttle body. Push the coupler on the throttle body too far and it isn't in the groove on the throttle body. A wide clamp helps keep pressure on the rib and both high spots on both sides of the throttle body. My AMS kit was missing a couple of hose clamps, including the one for the coupler to the throttle body. We used a clamp we had in the garage that had a 3/8" wide band. I think because it was thin clamp that it didn't distribute the load well and blew off a couple times.
I ordered a wide hose clamp that had a 5/8" wide band to use. I cleaned everything well, use Aqua Net hairspray, made sure the rib lined up with the grove, and installed the 5/8" wide clamp. I also got the car hot and let it cool. Then re-tightened the clamps. I did this with probably 4-5 heat cycles and eventually, it wouldn't tighten up. Then I check to make sure they are still tight every month or so.
My car has upgraded 68mm Tial turbos, makes plenty of boost, and probably makes over 700 to the tire on E85. It has been solid ever since I used the wider band clamp and the hairspray trick.
My IPD boost hose between y-pipe and gt3TB popped off again, at the tb. I changed the skinny worm gear clamp to a HPS t-bolt type (as suggested in another thread) but it kept on loosening after each full-throttle pull. Not sure if it was user error or just not suited for this application. I changed to a Trident t-bolt and it tightens up real snug. So far so good. Only issue is that the part of the clamp that bubbles out catches on the wire hanger on the tb so you can't quite get the bolt part horizontal which makes taking off the socket a bit of a challenge after tightening the nut, lol. I didn't have a bolt cutter to shorten it. Anyway, if this doesn't hold I will go back to either stock worm gear (which held for a long time) vs the oetiker constant torque type.
My IPD boost hose between y-pipe and gt3TB popped off again, at the tb. I changed the skinny worm gear clamp to a HPS t-bolt type (as suggested in another thread) but it kept on loosening after each full-throttle pull. Not sure if it was user error or just not suited for this application. I changed to a Trident t-bolt and it tightens up real snug. So far so good. Only issue is that the part of the clamp that bubbles out catches on the wire hanger on the tb so you can't quite get the bolt part horizontal which makes taking off the socket a bit of a challenge after tightening the nut, lol. I didn't have a bolt cutter to shorten it. Anyway, if this doesn't hold I will go back to either stock worm gear (which held for a long time) vs the oetiker constant torque type.
I dremel cut the screw to size after marking it with a test fit....and yes, I need a swivel and an extension to get my micro ratchet in there.
Cutting the excess stud on the clamp might be the easiest thing to do. But requires taking it all off and re-installing it.
Not 100% sure what you mean by bubble on the clamp or wire hanger on the throttle body. Maybe try 1/4" tools and an extension to have the wrench further away and/or a swivel to allow a different angle?
A ratcheting wrench might wok great in an application like that. Just get the small body ones. The link is to a random size ratcheting wrench since I'm not sure what size nut that is.
ooooh cool tool. I just used a deep 11mm socket and extension. The problem was getting the deep socket off the bolt at the end of the process because of the angle.
Originally Posted by 86merc
Cutting the excess stud on the clamp might be the easiest thing to do. But requires taking it all off and re-installing it.
Not 100% sure what you mean by bubble on the clamp or wire hanger on the throttle body. Maybe try 1/4" tools and an extension to have the wrench further away and/or a swivel to allow a different angle?
A ratcheting wrench might wok great in an application like that. Just get the small body ones. The link is to a random size ratcheting wrench since I'm not sure what size nut that is.
Yeah that ratcheting wrench would probably work too. If you look at my pic the part that sticks out the top of the clamp (where the bolt part anchors on the clamp) is what I'm referring to as the "bubble". It kind of looks like a referee's whistle. Directly above it is the hanger for the wire that goes to the throttle body connector.
Hey Bogg, I got the EVOMS one. Took them a bit to get it to me - as their manufacturing shop had some delays, but it's well worth the expense, specifically with the boost you're running.
Yeah I saw that in another thread. One guy said it didn't work for him. Wonder if it will work with a DO88 y-pipe, it says it was meant for the IPD y-pipe, I think.
Yeah I saw that in another thread. One guy said it didn't work for him. Wonder if it will work with a DO88 y-pipe, it says it was meant for the IPD y-pipe, I think.
Last year I looked at possibly getting that setup. I have the AMS intercooler & carbon fiber y-pipe. They were willing to send me just the y-pipe piece to confirm it would fit the AMS y-pipe. Since the AMS y-pipe seemed to be the same as the stock one, we were pretty confident that it would work.
But I haven't had any issues with the coupler coming off the y-pipe after I upgraded to the wider style worm-gear clamps. So I never took them up on their offer. But they may extend the same kind of offer to you if you call them. Unless your flange is way different than the stock/IPD one in which case, it won't matter.
I was running 20-21 PSI boost and irrespective of the clamps I used I had pop-off issues.
Not one issue since I switched to the 82mm and Evoms set up.
100% money well spent.
