I Need No "drama" braking, whether I'm going 30, 50, 70 or 100+.

I like little to no dust and noise.

The car won't be "tracked" very often.

I am Very performance minded and therefore I want a car that is "over engineered" in Every performance category section.

When I am driving [price wise] a house down the road at 50 and some A$$ on a cell phone cuts me off and then stops for a Yellow light...

I Need to be able to stop NOW [Wet or Dry]!

I like the "look" of PCCB, but that is Not my primary concern.

 

For those that are inquisitive...


Yes, I have already used the "accurate" search feature.

There are 90 threads where PCCB is in the title and 500 threads where PCCB is in the body.


"I know someone that might have had PCCB"

"PCCB breaks look nice"

"PCCB are expensive"

"I thought I read somewhere about PCCB"

"My girlfriend thinks that PCCB looks pretty"


et al

ad nauseam

 

My wife thought they were too much $$, but I bought them anyway

 

So...you've read them all?

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pccb-not.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...oblematic.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rformance.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cb-brakes.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...iscussion.html

 

Mel the PCCB brakes from what I noticed when I drove them at Barber Motorsports and from a test in a car magazine a few months ago do not offer better braking stopping distances over the steel brakes.

 

Yeah, but on hot laps you can hammer them lap after lap and they remain strong and consistent throughout the track session.
Mr. B

 

So do my steel S brakes, especially with Pagid pads and Motul 600 or SRF. And the rotors do not fall apart after 5 or so DE's. And when my rotors need replaced it's only $550 and not $10,000.

 

But, I wonder if we're both driving the car at close to 10/10ths?
You're right about the costs, but the ceramics are superior for hot laps (IMHO). My C2S has Turbo brakes and they are really excellent, but if I had a choice, I would have chosen PCCB's.
Mr. B

 

IF I go to a track, it will be a real one... not a parking lot filled with little cones.

If they perform the way that Porsche says they do, they are exactly what I want.

 

Guys, basically it boils down to this....IF you have the money for the PCCB option and you have the money to replace the ultra expensive rotors then by all means get what you want. If I was ultra rich I'd have them as they are the latest technology and look cool as all hell!

I do anywhere from 8-15 track days a year and I do not have the money to replace rotors at $10,000 a pop. I have not found the PCCB's stop any better than the red S brakes and nor has any magazine test or anyone else I know.

As far as driving at 10/10ths uh...yeah I am guilty of that! At Sebring I threshold brake and I turned my red calipers to a dark maroon/purple color. I'm either on the gas or brake...no coasting and no braking like on the street.

 

Interesting referral (http://movit.de/rahmen/ceramic.htm). Does anyone here have any experience, references, etc. with these Movit ceramic products? (They don't currently seem to have a 997/1 fitment, but I assume they will).
Thanks

 

Do a search. I got the web site from a thread here a while ago. Put it in my bookmarks in case I needed it. Somebody was raving bout the quality and decreased costs.

 

I did, and read the 'reviews' on their site. Glowing but, OTOH, they're not likely to put the bad ones there so I'm looking for other sources. They ARE pricey, but I continue to consider upgrading my existing 997 (2005) or replacing the car. Doing the latter seems like a real financial bath and they still don't make the car I want (RWD Turbo Cab), so I'm thinking more and more about creating one. In that context, supercharing/turbocharging, carbon brakes, new exhaust will still seem like a bargain. The 997/2 are significantly upgraded, but the financials just seem wrong.

 

I was talking about 6spd. That's where I first read about it. If you want rear wheel drive turbo cab, and no financial bath, I would think a Ruf VIN car would be best your best option. Other options are modifying a turbo cab and pull off the front dif, etc. If you bought a used one, it might not be too bad.
Trying to upgrade a NA car has the disadvantage of the weaker block. The turbo's GT1 block is worlds stronger than the block in the regular cars. If you are putting a lot of $$ into a car to make it unique for you, it seems like have the stronger more desireable engine would be advantageous.

 

Good points all. I've looked at the RUF upgrade. Quite pricey - but they include a reasonable warranty. Clearly the top-shelf option. Or so it seems.
So, in lieu of the toughened block - without the pain of selling/buying cars - that might be the way to go and let them take the risk.
For less than 1/2 the price, the VF (?) supercharger kit, installed by a local shop is tempting too. Just take the risk. I don't tend to pound it too hard very often so it may be a good trade-off. And it leaves lot of money for valuable parting gifts - such as carbon disk brakes.
I'd actually prefer a turbo upgrade rather than a supercharger. That late-rev-range push in the back is a hoot, but they're as pricey as the RUF but without the warranty. And, after driving my Ford GT, I've been impressed with the supercharger experience. I thought it would be harsh and noisy but it (the FGT at least) is an excellent motor/compressor combination.
But this is my daily driver (shared with my Prius - don't ask!) and I would need something that works.