06-07 carrera s discount
06-07 carrera s discount
i've been searching for my first p-car for about a month now and started to focus on cars that are in 55-65,000 range.
what kind of discount should i expect these days? is there a rule of thumb to calculate the amount that can be discounted? also, are cpo'd vehicles really worth the extra cost?
tia
what kind of discount should i expect these days? is there a rule of thumb to calculate the amount that can be discounted? also, are cpo'd vehicles really worth the extra cost?
tia
I am so glad to see so many of these threads about new (used) car purchases. That is meant serious btw, not as a jab. I think that this truly benefits many people (as it did for me) who are looking for a car.
With that said, there really is no rhyme or reason. It is a buyers market right now, lots of cars for sale and not as many buyers, so you can typically find a great deal if you are patient. Depending on the features of the car, I am pretty confident you can find a car with the features you want for under $60k, unless of course if has some third party options that you would have paid for anyway that would make you feel confident in spending more. IMO, the CPO is worth it, as long as they are not raising the price more then $2,500 for that designation. The reason is that you can get into a much longer warranty contract with several reputable companies for about that or a little more, that offer close to the same benefit that the CPO does. Obviously it is nice to have the official Porsche warranty if available, but cars that have their prices raised by $4k or more because of it, I say, not worth it.
When I was in search of my car, I actually was also looking at a couple of Cayman S too and the price difference to add the CPO was going to be like $2,800. Keep in mind that if the car is at a dealership, here is how the typically calculate the cost of the CPO. First it is like a $500 dealer fee, plus normally like $2k for the CPO designation and then any repair costs needed to get it into CPO condition, so if all things pass and no repairs are needed, you can see how $2,500 is possible. Of course, like most company, they are "bound" to find at least something that needs to be repaired - LOL.
Good luck in your search. The right car is definitely out there. Don't settle or impulse buy.
With that said, there really is no rhyme or reason. It is a buyers market right now, lots of cars for sale and not as many buyers, so you can typically find a great deal if you are patient. Depending on the features of the car, I am pretty confident you can find a car with the features you want for under $60k, unless of course if has some third party options that you would have paid for anyway that would make you feel confident in spending more. IMO, the CPO is worth it, as long as they are not raising the price more then $2,500 for that designation. The reason is that you can get into a much longer warranty contract with several reputable companies for about that or a little more, that offer close to the same benefit that the CPO does. Obviously it is nice to have the official Porsche warranty if available, but cars that have their prices raised by $4k or more because of it, I say, not worth it.
When I was in search of my car, I actually was also looking at a couple of Cayman S too and the price difference to add the CPO was going to be like $2,800. Keep in mind that if the car is at a dealership, here is how the typically calculate the cost of the CPO. First it is like a $500 dealer fee, plus normally like $2k for the CPO designation and then any repair costs needed to get it into CPO condition, so if all things pass and no repairs are needed, you can see how $2,500 is possible. Of course, like most company, they are "bound" to find at least something that needs to be repaired - LOL.
Good luck in your search. The right car is definitely out there. Don't settle or impulse buy.
I just bought a CPO '06 C2S. Car was ~$90k new. Was traded in at the end of March and put on the market for $67k. Reduced to $59k. I paid $57k (with a 50% shipping credit from New England to STL).
Lots of inventory out there so you can get exactly what you're looking for at a great price. agree with the above, don't rush in, do your research, run the CarFax/do a PPI, etc.
CPO def worth it. market is soft enough for the added CPO cost to be negotiable IMO.
Lots of inventory out there so you can get exactly what you're looking for at a great price. agree with the above, don't rush in, do your research, run the CarFax/do a PPI, etc.
CPO def worth it. market is soft enough for the added CPO cost to be negotiable IMO.
Similar experience, bought an '05 C2s coupe (silver/black) approx 37K miles, CPO, great condition for approx 50K...
You are going to obviously pay more for less miles, or newer model year, but keep in mind, it's a buyer market. If you don't walk away at least once...you are giving the advantage to the seller.
Good luck...
You are going to obviously pay more for less miles, or newer model year, but keep in mind, it's a buyer market. If you don't walk away at least once...you are giving the advantage to the seller.
Good luck...
The region is important and price seems to be holding strongest with 05 and 06 cars forming a high bottom. The 08's are the big deal . One can buy a new sub 5K mile 08 car in the mid to upper 60's .
The gray area is the 55 to 64K range where things like miles and car condition get factored in with model year year and region .
My thought are to either price yourself above it with an 08 (mid to upper 60's) or below it with an 05 (upper 40's to low 50's) .
if you want to avoid a headache . But if you must dive into the used car muck price stress zone --60K for a sub 10K mile 07 nicely optioned with clean paint and DME is close. Maybe it will be 59 or 61 but teetering on that 60.
My vote goes for lower mile clean cars above newer model year high mile cars . Private sale means more homework but even CPO requires extensive inquiry into the car's history .
The gray area is the 55 to 64K range where things like miles and car condition get factored in with model year year and region .
My thought are to either price yourself above it with an 08 (mid to upper 60's) or below it with an 05 (upper 40's to low 50's) .
if you want to avoid a headache . But if you must dive into the used car muck price stress zone --60K for a sub 10K mile 07 nicely optioned with clean paint and DME is close. Maybe it will be 59 or 61 but teetering on that 60.
My vote goes for lower mile clean cars above newer model year high mile cars . Private sale means more homework but even CPO requires extensive inquiry into the car's history .
The region is important and price seems to be holding strongest with 05 and 06 cars forming a high bottom. The 08's are the big deal . One can buy a new sub 5K mile 08 car in the mid to upper 60's .
The gray area is the 55 to 64K range where things like miles and car condition get factored in with model year year and region .
My thought are to either price yourself above it with an 08 (mid to upper 60's) or below it with an 05 (upper 40's to low 50's) .
if you want to avoid a headache . But if you must dive into the used car muck price stress zone --60K for a sub 10K mile 07 nicely optioned with clean paint and DME is close. Maybe it will be 59 or 61 but teetering on that 60.
My vote goes for lower mile clean cars above newer model year high mile cars . Private sale means more homework but even CPO requires extensive inquiry into the car's history .
The gray area is the 55 to 64K range where things like miles and car condition get factored in with model year year and region .
My thought are to either price yourself above it with an 08 (mid to upper 60's) or below it with an 05 (upper 40's to low 50's) .
if you want to avoid a headache . But if you must dive into the used car muck price stress zone --60K for a sub 10K mile 07 nicely optioned with clean paint and DME is close. Maybe it will be 59 or 61 but teetering on that 60.
My vote goes for lower mile clean cars above newer model year high mile cars . Private sale means more homework but even CPO requires extensive inquiry into the car's history .
tia
Thank you all for your reply. What is DME btw? Also, I'm still not sure what kind of offer I should make when the vehicle is chosen. I don't wanna make a high offer when I could've gotten a better bargain. How do you guys decide your target price? The price that you are willing to walk away from the deal if not met.
tia
Digital Motor Electronics (DME) think of it as an engine computer of sorts.
A bit of advice. As you research cars, you will get to a point where you will be within 5% max range on any car.You will see Sellers who become defensive if you offer "too low", forget it. This isn't about emotion, it's business. If they don't counter, move on or ask for a counter. If they don't budge toward market, then move off the car fast.
Keep remembering, the longer you wait, the further the market will slide.
Well, it ain't gonna go up anyway. 
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Thank you all for your reply. What is DME btw? Also, I'm still not sure what kind of offer I should make when the vehicle is chosen. I don't wanna make a high offer when I could've gotten a better bargain. How do you guys decide your target price? The price that you are willing to walk away from the deal if not met.
tia
tia
Here is the important thread on over rev. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-over-rev.html
I want to give it thought on pricing but have errands to run . PM me the info or post it on the thread and later tonight when I get back I will have more time and can give it better thought. In the meantime you'll also gather ideas.
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