I was wondering if anyone stores their Porsche with a full fuel tank and adding Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer to it? With the crappy gas we get now I'm worried that I'll have a tank of gel by spring. Any thoughts??

Thanks in advance

 

Absolutely a full tank. Leaves little or no room for condensation to form in the tank. I use Sta-Bil in all my power equipment. It won't hurt the car......

 

I use the stuff in my equipment as well, but didn't know how the pcar will handle it. I put it in my 968, but that car will burn bunker oil if i needed it to.
I use AVgas in my race car and was told no need to stabilize it since it has all kinds of crap in it for high altitude use.

Thanks for the answers.

 

From the Manual - Storing your Porsche

Clean your vehicle thoroughly inside and out- side.
Clean the engine compartment. The under carriage and chassis components should be free of dirt and salt deposits.
Fill up the fuel tank.
Change the oil and oil filter, and run the engine for several minutes.

Increase the tire pressure to 58 psi (4 bar). It is not recommended to lift the vehicle, due to the possibility of corrosion on shock absorber piston shafts. The vehicle should be moved slightly, approxi- mately every four weeks, to prevent flat spot on the tires.

Climate control[/B]
The air conditioning system should be in good working condition and fully charged.

Electrical system
Remove the battery from the vehicle and store it in a cool dry place, not on a cement floor. When the battery is disconnected, the alarm system is deactivated.
Recharge the battery every 3 months. If the battery remains in the vehicle with the cables connected, it is necessary to check, remove and recharge the battery every 2-3 weeks. Do not fast charge the battery. Please observe the chapter “BATTERY” on Page 258.

Vehicle interior
The interior must be dry, especially in the area of the floor carpets. The use of drying agents (Silica- Gel) is recommended in vehicles with leather interior and in areas with high humidity. The recommended amount is 3 fabric bags of 1.1 lbs. (500 grams) each placed on the floor carpets. Windows, doors and lids must be closed. The air vents should be opened.

 

Alot of really good reccomendations here, however I don't remove the Battery. I use a battery tender to maintain the charge all winter long.

I also use the tire cradles to keep the most expensive tires in the world (sarcastic) from flat spotting. THey really work well.

I would love a pre oiller for the engine before start up. Keeps the dreaded bearing ware to a minimum.

Thanks for reading the manual for me:-)

 

I do everything mentioned above except for the pre-oiller...

sweeper - what is that?

 

Many years now doing the same things: Full tank w/ stabilizer (5 month old gas by the time I start using the car again), inflate tires, Porsche battery tender ($55 from Suncoast), cover. Every 2 weeks I start the car for 10 minutes, roll it a few inches to prevent flat spotting).

 

Quick question, when you guys start your cars, and its on a trickle charger, do you disconnect the trickle charger before starting...or just start with the trickle charger active?

Also I always use fuel stabilizer with a fresh tank of gas before she goes away. This is a really helpful thread!

 

Great thread! Any recommendations on which tire cradle and fuel stabilizer to use?

 

Not promoting anyones product, but check this out. There are many brands.
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/produ...mk01-amk02.htm

I really don't think these cars need them for DD use, but for storage situations they're great. Even starting once a month only make it worse since you're starting a dry engine once a month.

In the race car engine, (True Dry Sump) I loosen the rocker train so the valves aren't moving, remove the spark plugs, pour new oil down through the head into the block, fill the oil filter and most of the lines. I spin the engine on the starter and build the oil pressure so that I see oil pumping to the top of the head. Tighten everthing down and fire her up.
For winterizing:
I completey change the water to antifreeze ( AF not allowed on track), completely FOG ( prevents ring sweep) the engine while hot and loosen the rocker train to sit for the winter


Many have thoughts on this, so please chime in..

Thanks

 

I use flat stoppers ( don't know who makes them) for cradles. BEST INVESTMENT
I own 12, Battery tenders I use them on everything from the bobcat to the atv's and motorhome, and all my cars.

I don't really think it matters who makes these things they'll all do what they're supposed to.

I sometimes start on the charger, it really does't matter. Very little of the starter current draw is coming from the tender, they are limited. I try to make a habit of removing it before starting, so I don't drive away with it still attached:-( ( really I didn't do that yesterday!!)

 

So if one uses tire cradles, there is no need to roll the car slightly every 2-4 weeks right? Or is there still a chance of flat spots on the tire cradles? Tire pressure should be inflated to max listed on the sidewall?

 

This what they claim, i never rolled mine and the PS2's were fine for 6 months last winter, I can't say that about the BS's on my other car without cradles. I thought I was in a flintstones mobile, with square wheels.
As long as they aren't on cement all winter, I've heard of a re-actions due to the content of the cement and the rubber compound in the tire. Making them harder and more difficult to remove/reduce the flatspots.

I do inflate them to MAX on side wall or on door jam

GL

 

good thread!

 

I've never had tire cradles and never had flat spotting. I would roll the car whether or not I had cradles anyway. Get it warmed up, in gear, move it a little to loosen things up. So to me buying cradles was throwing money away. For stabilizer, I just got Sta-bil.