First PCA DE in 997.2S pdk, a few questions
First PCA DE in 997.2S pdk, a few questions
Just did my first ever on track event with my 997.2s pdk... What a great car :-) ... And ps I made up time on the straights bc pdk shifts so flawlessly in sport chrono! Hit 113mph which is by far the fastest I've had it in my 11 months... Wow 
Had a few questions though...
1) at one point after 2 hrs total driving the check engine light came on for 2 secs... Then went off. Anything to worry about?
2) coulda been my imagination but brakes seemed to fade a little as afternoon wore on. Ive put 5k miles on my car in 1 yr (with several auto crosses) and never had the pads changed. Is it worth changing to a tougher brake pad? If so, any recommendations? I do a few de/autoX events per season but not much beyond that and a few k street miles per year

Had a few questions though...
1) at one point after 2 hrs total driving the check engine light came on for 2 secs... Then went off. Anything to worry about?
2) coulda been my imagination but brakes seemed to fade a little as afternoon wore on. Ive put 5k miles on my car in 1 yr (with several auto crosses) and never had the pads changed. Is it worth changing to a tougher brake pad? If so, any recommendations? I do a few de/autoX events per season but not much beyond that and a few k street miles per year
...Had a few questions though...
1) at one point after 2 hrs total driving the check engine light came on for 2 secs... Then went off. Anything to worry about?
2) coulda been my imagination but brakes seemed to fade a little as afternoon wore on. Ive put 5k miles on my car in 1 yr (with several auto crosses) and never had the pads changed. Is it worth changing to a tougher brake pad? If so, any recommendations? I do a few de/autoX events per season but not much beyond that and a few k street miles per year
1) at one point after 2 hrs total driving the check engine light came on for 2 secs... Then went off. Anything to worry about?
2) coulda been my imagination but brakes seemed to fade a little as afternoon wore on. Ive put 5k miles on my car in 1 yr (with several auto crosses) and never had the pads changed. Is it worth changing to a tougher brake pad? If so, any recommendations? I do a few de/autoX events per season but not much beyond that and a few k street miles per year
If you have done several autox you should have had the brake fluid flushed. The S brake pads do fine on occasional autox or track DEs.
Did the brake pedal feel softer during the sessions? It is quite common, the factory brake fluid has a low boiling point resulting in soft brake pedal. You should switch to Motul RBF 660! I wouldn't be worried about the pads in day 1.
Take the car to the dealer and have them plug in to run and see what the code is. Might be a oxegin sensor....or maybe you saw the orange PSM light flash.
The stock brake fluid is very weak for track use and the stock pads are thin for track use and that is why you got brake fade. The heat from the thin pads transfered to the caliper and heated the stock fluid and boiled it.
Flush the fluid for Motul RBF 600- or 660 and you will be fine for a few more track days. Check the thickness of your stock pads. The pad material (do not count the backing plate) needs to be around 6+mm.
If you are going through stock pads (easy to do at the track) you need to think about racing pads like Pagid RS29 Yellows and R-Compound tires.
The stock brake fluid is very weak for track use and the stock pads are thin for track use and that is why you got brake fade. The heat from the thin pads transfered to the caliper and heated the stock fluid and boiled it.
Flush the fluid for Motul RBF 600- or 660 and you will be fine for a few more track days. Check the thickness of your stock pads. The pad material (do not count the backing plate) needs to be around 6+mm.
If you are going through stock pads (easy to do at the track) you need to think about racing pads like Pagid RS29 Yellows and R-Compound tires.
Chowy-
Agree with others have said about fluid and pads. Don't worry about speed at this point in time, concentrate on being smooth.
The fastest speed I ever hit was 194 mph on the banks in the 24 hours of Daytona (993 Evo 2)- it was like living in anither planet.
Have fun with your great car - I'm jealous.
Agree with others have said about fluid and pads. Don't worry about speed at this point in time, concentrate on being smooth.
The fastest speed I ever hit was 194 mph on the banks in the 24 hours of Daytona (993 Evo 2)- it was like living in anither planet.
Have fun with your great car - I'm jealous.
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Are the Steel Braided Brake Lines still good for street use? I do want to make my car better for the track/autoX but will still drive it around town so can't go overboard...
You will not notice any difference in day to day driving with Steel Brake Lines.
However for those track days Steel braided brake lines keep braking performance strong because they don't swell like rubber lines can. A swollen line decreases the brake fluid pressure, which will compromise the vehicle's overall braking power. A result of this is diminished brake pedal feel:
It may be difficult to modulate the brakes properly when your punishing them on the track with the OEM Brake Lines because the pedal may feel squishy or sloppy when everything is so hot. Braided steel brake lines also protect against nicks and tears from road debris while maintaining flexibility and a firm grip on the brake part it connects to.
It's not a difficult task to remove and replace OEM brake lines with steel braided brake lines
However for those track days Steel braided brake lines keep braking performance strong because they don't swell like rubber lines can. A swollen line decreases the brake fluid pressure, which will compromise the vehicle's overall braking power. A result of this is diminished brake pedal feel:
It may be difficult to modulate the brakes properly when your punishing them on the track with the OEM Brake Lines because the pedal may feel squishy or sloppy when everything is so hot. Braided steel brake lines also protect against nicks and tears from road debris while maintaining flexibility and a firm grip on the brake part it connects to.
It's not a difficult task to remove and replace OEM brake lines with steel braided brake lines
Last edited by Lockie; Jun 16, 2010 at 09:56 AM.
i was told by several people that on a DD car steel braided lines do crack and may leave you with no brakes essentially. my mechanic has a couple of such lines on his wall. he says that stock lines are enforced enough and all one need is a better pro grade braking fluid on a non-cup car.
Did he say why they Crack. i.e 1. Age 2.cheap product 3. Stress ??
I went to Pagid Yellows , Steel Braided Lines and Racing Brake Fluid.
and all I can say was WOW
what a difference. I don't know if it was the combination of all of the above or just the Pads alone . I am only leaving them on until our tracking season ends about Oct and will go back to OEM pads. Maybe I should also switch back the Lines. Thanks for the heads up . They are not too expensive to replace and they should at least last the season.
Would love to hear though why they were cracking
Upgraded my '06 C2S with Pagid RS29 yellow pads, braided brake lines, Castrol SRF brake fluid, and GT2 front brake cooling ducts. So far four track days at the Autobahn club with alot of track time. No problems. Brakes were outstanding. No brake fade or soft pedal. Suggest you check out Napleton Porsche motorsport web site.Talk to Joe Bounsante.
which of the Pagid brakes would be slightly better for the track, but not "ruin" the car for the street? In other words, if you want to take the brake pads from a "5" to a "7" but not to a "10", what's the recommended version?



