997S VF-Engineering S/C Came!
#16
04-22-2011, 09:35 PM
You can very safely be at 530hp and faster and more enjoyable than a bloated, sloppy 997TT with some tweaks to your setup.
Try this:
-Remove the IPD plenum and use your OEM unit. The IPD Plenum is a known thief of HP when running FI via the VF-E SC. RSS/IPD should give you a refund since they offer 100% money back satisfaction.
-Remove the 3.8" pulley. You need to go with the 3.6" pulley to acquire the 6.1psi boost, as measured right at the TB. There is no debate there among anyone of us who have done this. As such, a C2S (stock 355hp) should be at 450hp at the wheels, or 520-530hp at the crank.
-Many guys are safely running the 3.4" pulley to produce around 7.2 psi at redline and WOT, resulting in the neighborhood of 550-560 crank hp, again probably safe for the block, but possibly more than your reflexes, brakes, suspension, or tires can handle.
CATTMAN
Try this:
-Remove the IPD plenum and use your OEM unit. The IPD Plenum is a known thief of HP when running FI via the VF-E SC. RSS/IPD should give you a refund since they offer 100% money back satisfaction.
-Remove the 3.8" pulley. You need to go with the 3.6" pulley to acquire the 6.1psi boost, as measured right at the TB. There is no debate there among anyone of us who have done this. As such, a C2S (stock 355hp) should be at 450hp at the wheels, or 520-530hp at the crank.
-Many guys are safely running the 3.4" pulley to produce around 7.2 psi at redline and WOT, resulting in the neighborhood of 550-560 crank hp, again probably safe for the block, but possibly more than your reflexes, brakes, suspension, or tires can handle.
CATTMAN
#17
04-23-2011, 01:32 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,364
Rep Power: 114 
Cattman,
Thank you for your suggestions. I had this conversation with Justatoy as well, and he did mention the same thing as you. I wonder why the IPD would do this when it's suppose to improve air flow to the cylinders? I will consider changing this and see if it makes a difference. Did you notice a difference when you changed out your IPD?
I'm really considering going to the 3.6 pulley as you've suggested. I believe I can still use the existing belt? Don't I have to consider flowing more fuel to maintain correct A/F ratio?
On another note, why would VF-E say that their 3.8 pulley produce 6 PSI at redline when it's been proven by you guys that is not the case?
Thank you for your suggestions. I had this conversation with Justatoy as well, and he did mention the same thing as you. I wonder why the IPD would do this when it's suppose to improve air flow to the cylinders? I will consider changing this and see if it makes a difference. Did you notice a difference when you changed out your IPD?
I'm really considering going to the 3.6 pulley as you've suggested. I believe I can still use the existing belt? Don't I have to consider flowing more fuel to maintain correct A/F ratio?
On another note, why would VF-E say that their 3.8 pulley produce 6 PSI at redline when it's been proven by you guys that is not the case?
You can very safely be at 530hp and faster and more enjoyable than a bloated, sloppy 997TT with some tweaks to your setup.
Try this:
-Remove the IPD plenum and use your OEM unit. The IPD Plenum is a known thief of HP when running FI via the VF-E SC. RSS/IPD should give you a refund since they offer 100% money back satisfaction.
-Remove the 3.8" pulley. You need to go with the 3.6" pulley to acquire the 6.1psi boost, as measured right at the TB. There is no debate there among anyone of us who have done this. As such, a C2S (stock 355hp) should be at 450hp at the wheels, or 520-530hp at the crank.
-Many guys are safely running the 3.4" pulley to produce around 7.2 psi at redline and WOT, resulting in the neighborhood of 550-560 crank hp, again probably safe for the block, but possibly more than your reflexes, brakes, suspension, or tires can handle.
CATTMAN
Try this:
-Remove the IPD plenum and use your OEM unit. The IPD Plenum is a known thief of HP when running FI via the VF-E SC. RSS/IPD should give you a refund since they offer 100% money back satisfaction.
-Remove the 3.8" pulley. You need to go with the 3.6" pulley to acquire the 6.1psi boost, as measured right at the TB. There is no debate there among anyone of us who have done this. As such, a C2S (stock 355hp) should be at 450hp at the wheels, or 520-530hp at the crank.
-Many guys are safely running the 3.4" pulley to produce around 7.2 psi at redline and WOT, resulting in the neighborhood of 550-560 crank hp, again probably safe for the block, but possibly more than your reflexes, brakes, suspension, or tires can handle.
CATTMAN
#18
04-23-2011, 07:18 AM
Cattman,
Thank you for your suggestions. I had this conversation with Justatoy as well, and he did mention the same thing as you. I wonder why the IPD would do this when it's suppose to improve air flow to the cylinders? I will consider changing this and see if it makes a difference. Did you notice a difference when you changed out your IPD?
I'm really considering going to the 3.6 pulley as you've suggested. I believe I can still use the existing belt? Don't I have to consider flowing more fuel to maintain correct A/F ratio?
On another note, why would VF-E say that their 3.8 pulley produce 6 PSI at redline when it's been proven by you guys that is not the case?
Thank you for your suggestions. I had this conversation with Justatoy as well, and he did mention the same thing as you. I wonder why the IPD would do this when it's suppose to improve air flow to the cylinders? I will consider changing this and see if it makes a difference. Did you notice a difference when you changed out your IPD?
I'm really considering going to the 3.6 pulley as you've suggested. I believe I can still use the existing belt? Don't I have to consider flowing more fuel to maintain correct A/F ratio?
On another note, why would VF-E say that their 3.8 pulley produce 6 PSI at redline when it's been proven by you guys that is not the case?
I was getting really weird readings on my Durametric data with the IPD plenum, and when I yanked it, things looked perfect. Even VF-E recommends yanking the IPD unit when adding FI. Not sure why it has that negative impact, other than to say that it wasn't designed for FI.
I have no idea why VF-E says that the 3.8" pulley makes 6psi when it doesn't. Stacy and I speculate that they are measuring boost in a different location, closer to the blower and further from the TB. I measure mine AT the TB, and it's 6.1psi at redline and WOT with the 3.6" pulley.
Yes, you will have to correct for AFR if going to a smaller pulley.
CATTMAN
#19
04-23-2011, 01:29 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,364
Rep Power: 114
Cattman,
Sounds good. Will do. Thanks. You got PM.
Sounds good. Will do. Thanks. You got PM.
I was getting really weird readings on my Durametric data with the IPD plenum, and when I yanked it, things looked perfect. Even VF-E recommends yanking the IPD unit when adding FI. Not sure why it has that negative impact, other than to say that it wasn't designed for FI.
I have no idea why VF-E says that the 3.8" pulley makes 6psi when it doesn't. Stacy and I speculate that they are measuring boost in a different location, closer to the blower and further from the TB. I measure mine AT the TB, and it's 6.1psi at redline and WOT with the 3.6" pulley.
Yes, you will have to correct for AFR if going to a smaller pulley.
CATTMAN
I have no idea why VF-E says that the 3.8" pulley makes 6psi when it doesn't. Stacy and I speculate that they are measuring boost in a different location, closer to the blower and further from the TB. I measure mine AT the TB, and it's 6.1psi at redline and WOT with the 3.6" pulley.
Yes, you will have to correct for AFR if going to a smaller pulley.
CATTMAN
#21
04-23-2011, 10:17 PM
I was getting really weird readings on my Durametric data with the IPD plenum, and when I yanked it, things looked perfect. Even VF-E recommends yanking the IPD unit when adding FI. Not sure why it has that negative impact, other than to say that it wasn't designed for FI.
I have no idea why VF-E says that the 3.8" pulley makes 6psi when it doesn't. Stacy and I speculate that they are measuring boost in a different location, closer to the blower and further from the TB. I measure mine AT the TB, and it's 6.1psi at redline and WOT with the 3.6" pulley.
Yes, you will have to correct for AFR if going to a smaller pulley.
CATTMAN
I have no idea why VF-E says that the 3.8" pulley makes 6psi when it doesn't. Stacy and I speculate that they are measuring boost in a different location, closer to the blower and further from the TB. I measure mine AT the TB, and it's 6.1psi at redline and WOT with the 3.6" pulley.
Yes, you will have to correct for AFR if going to a smaller pulley.
CATTMAN
IF memory serves me correctly.......you are running the 3.4" pulley right now!
BUt as far as pulley sizes go VS boost on the 997....here is what I think I remember
,These were measured right BEHIND the throttle body......
Size PSI
3.8" = 4
3.6" = 4.7
3.48"= 5.4
3.4" = 6.1
These are approximate numbers due to the fact I was using a mechanical gauge and it was really tough to watch while full throttle in third gear and watching the pavement fly by.....but the numbers are close!
Cheers,
Stacy
#22
04-24-2011, 12:39 AM
Nothing upsets me more then false advertising.. I am buying my kit knowing that most honest reporters think it's not putting out the power specified as supplied. The main reason I still purchased is because of cattman and justatoy who have been pioneers in getting the power it should put out. I did the layaway program vivid was offering and have 2k to go.. She should be in my possession in June. Thanks in advance to all self installers for your support!!
Thanks
Carter
Thanks
Carter
#23
04-24-2011, 06:07 AM
Nothing upsets me more then false advertising.. I am buying my kit knowing that most honest reporters think it's not putting out the power specified as supplied. The main reason I still purchased is because of cattman and justatoy who have been pioneers in getting the power it should put out. I did the layaway program vivid was offering and have 2k to go.. She should be in my possession in June. Thanks in advance to all self installers for your support!!
Thanks
Carter
Thanks
Carter
CATTMAN
#24
04-24-2011, 07:23 AM
91 and 93oct maps are different. Ambient temperature is different this can effect things too. If you have a stock exhaust or stock headers, this can make the car run differently.
To say what you have at the crank is moot considering the differences in how wheel horsepower dynos read and what % people calculate as drivetrain loss. Your car should feel significantly faster then it did stock. If it does not, you have a issue to check out.
To say what you have at the crank is moot considering the differences in how wheel horsepower dynos read and what % people calculate as drivetrain loss. Your car should feel significantly faster then it did stock. If it does not, you have a issue to check out.
Nothing upsets me more then false advertising.. I am buying my kit knowing that most honest reporters think it's not putting out the power specified as supplied. The main reason I still purchased is because of cattman and justatoy who have been pioneers in getting the power it should put out. I did the layaway program vivid was offering and have 2k to go.. She should be in my possession in June. Thanks in advance to all self installers for your support!!
Thanks
Carter
Thanks
Carter
There are so many variables when checking the statistics of any one kit.
Headers,exhaust,plenums.....even the weight of oil you use!
One thing for sure that will change the boost numbers...
Where are they measuring boost?
VF may measure boost in a different location than I did...and they are truly seeing the 6 PSI advertised.As far as dyno's are concerned......well that has the most variables.Depending upon the type of dyno and conditions the car was tested there can be huge variances in the numbers....again VF may very well have seen the numbers they advertise!
One thing that you can count on IS that your car will definitely be faster and bang for the buck.......worth every penny!
So when you get it....enjoy and BE safe!
Stacy
Last edited by justatoy; 04-24-2011 at 07:28 AM.
#25
04-24-2011, 08:32 AM
Question... did it come with item 3F shown in this diagram? this is from the porsche manual on required parts for the center radiator retrofit.
Thanks!
Carter
Thanks!
Carter
Well, after a little over 1.5 months of anticipation, the VF-Engineering S/C Kit came! With the special deal from Vivid Racing, it was a no brainer for me. Dan from Vivid Racing was a pleasure to deal with and kept me abreast of my order. Very professional and courteous. Much appreciated.
Well here are some pictures of the updated Kit:
A few noticeable things at first glance:
1. The coolant lines have nylon-like sleeving over the rubber hoses.
2. Some of the hoses are already pre-bent, I guess to facilitate installation?
3. The K&N Filter has a plastic Heat Shield covering now, as you can see in the pix..nice touch
Attachment 141596
Attachment 141597
Attachment 141598
Now to go and read the instructions and find myself a lift
.
Well here are some pictures of the updated Kit:
A few noticeable things at first glance:
1. The coolant lines have nylon-like sleeving over the rubber hoses.
2. Some of the hoses are already pre-bent, I guess to facilitate installation?
3. The K&N Filter has a plastic Heat Shield covering now, as you can see in the pix..nice touch
Attachment 141596
Attachment 141597
Attachment 141598
Now to go and read the instructions and find myself a lift
.
#26
04-24-2011, 10:25 AM
There was no money spared when they designed this kit...very well laid out and made of some of the best materials out there!
Stacy
#27
04-24-2011, 04:58 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,364
Rep Power: 114
Like justatoy said, the kit comes with everything that's needed to bolt it on. We did not have to order any additional stuff from Porsche.
#28
04-24-2011, 05:03 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,364
Rep Power: 114
I had a conversation with the technical dept at VF-Engineering.
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
Where are they measuring boost?
VF may measure boost in a different location than I did...and they are truly seeing the 6 PSI advertised.As far as dyno's are concerned......well that has the most variables.Depending upon the type of dyno and conditions the car was tested there can be huge variances in the numbers....again VF may very well have seen the numbers they advertise!
Stacy
VF may measure boost in a different location than I did...and they are truly seeing the 6 PSI advertised.As far as dyno's are concerned......well that has the most variables.Depending upon the type of dyno and conditions the car was tested there can be huge variances in the numbers....again VF may very well have seen the numbers they advertise!
Stacy
#29
04-24-2011, 06:31 PM
I had a conversation with the technical dept at VF-Engineering.
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
BUT the BEST spot would be to drill and tap a fitting into the plenum,like TPC did with their turbo! YES that would be easy to do....especially IF you are already KNEE deep in the install.
Stacy
Last edited by justatoy; 04-24-2011 at 06:34 PM.
#30
04-24-2011, 06:41 PM
I had a conversation with the technical dept at VF-Engineering.
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
This is what they said in their email:
We measure boost in the intake manifold. You can connect to the manifold vacuum line such as the one going to the bypass valve. If you leave it there permanently, it will not allow the bypass to react quickly, so that point is only suggested as a testing point.
Stracy, I believe that's where you measured your Boost?
If you pull your plenum, any interest in selling it?